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chipper shredder

10390 Views 20 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  lynnr
I am looking to purchase a chipper shredder for use around my home. I have 6 1/2 acres with lots of trees and shrubs. I have been looking at various used machines on Craigslist. I think I need a 8 hp or larger. I would like to be able to grind a 3' limb. Can any of you give me any advise as to what not to expect and what not to buy.

Thanks,
Ocmoses
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I am looking to purchase a chipper shredder for use around my home. I have 6 1/2 acres with lots of trees and shrubs. I have been looking at various used machines on Craigslist. I think I need a 8 hp or larger. I would like to be able to grind a 3' limb. Can any of you give me any advise as to what not to expect and what not to buy.

Thanks,
Ocmoses
I think you will need something bigger than 8hp. I have a 9hp chipper shredder, key start and it might do a 3" limb, I guess that is what you mean you have 3'.
It is a nice unit, pull behind, very good around my 2 acres and a garden. It really works on corn stocks and then I can use them for mulch in the garden.
Mine is a Mighty Mac. Very nice unit.
I have an 8 HP troybilt. The chipper chute will take a 3" limb but I don't have the patience for it, so I just make 2" the max size unless it's some really soft,green wood. I'm real happy w/ it and it makes excellent mulch. I know it's far superior to the 5 HP TB I had before it.
Mike
Having struggled along with this Toro/MTD/Craftstman style for 10 years or so, thinking that was as good as it gets for a domestic machine...



....I'll say forget it. Waste of time. They are hard work for not a lot, even 10hp and 13hp. After my last one blew up this year, I found this old Troy-bilt on craigslist.



It had seen little use, and even with the 8hp Briggs it was a HUGE improvement and does indeed eat 3-4" efficiently. Unfortunately dropped a valve so I repowered with an 11hp HF motor (and added the rough 'n' ready hitch). Now it is awesome. Needed a little fab work for the repower but very happy with it. Up to 1" and short fat bits just throw in the top hopper. With the fine screen, also macerates greenery, corn stalks and confidential documents :fing32:

Lynnr, yours looks identical to the one I have. When I first got it the intake valve was sticking a little. Some marvel oil thru the intake cured that and it has run fine since then.
What size belt are you running on it? I've found a B-26 works good on mine.
Mike
Lynnr, yours looks identical to the one I have. When I first got it the intake valve was sticking a little. Some marvel oil thru the intake cured that and it has run fine since then.
What size belt are you running on it? I've found a B-26 works good on mine.
Mike
I read in an old thread on MTF that 29x5/8 was correct size...and that is what I use - but with that sprung clutch idler there is play at least to go up an inch or two - I've used 30" when that was all I could get. I'd have thought 26 would be hard to fit...

Perhaps the intake valve is a weak point on this Briggs 8hp...mine threw the retainer washer, chipping the valve. The HF motor came about $230 with coupons and I'd definitely recommend the extra HP. One day I might do something else with the Briggs...
The B-26 goes on mine easy. I first tried a B-27 but it didn't last long. Just self destructed, my theory was it was backflexing too much around the idler pulley. Maybe I was hoggin' it too much. The B-26 has worked fine so far so I'll stick w/ it.
Yeah, I'm sure the extra 3 HP makes quite a difference. Have you found a place to get replacement blades? I can sharpen mine easy enough but it'll wear past that point some day.
Ocmoses, I don't know what your budget is, but if you have a tractor w/ 540 RPM PTO and sufficient HP I'd get a three point hitch type chipper. Otherwise I think all the older chippers are pretty good if they've had good care. Can't comment on the newer ones.

Mike
I have a Husky, it does pretty well. Works hard and me hard on bigger limbs. The limb shoot needs to be a little shorter. The length it is makes it hard to get some limbs in if they are not almost perfectly straight. I will probably try another Brand if I ever wear this one out!

Have you found a place to get replacement blades? I can sharpen mine easy enough but it'll wear past that point some day.
Ocmoses, I don't know what your budget is, but if you have a tractor w/ 540 RPM PTO and sufficient HP I'd get a three point hitch type chipper. Otherwise I think all the older chippers are pretty good if they've had good care. Can't comment on the newer ones.
Mike
Second the comment on older chippers, just based on the TroyBilt...there are sure to be others just as worthy. Blades - I've never bought one - make my own, and since the Troy Bilt still had an original sharp edge when I bought it this summer, that was the very first thing I did - keeping the original for pattern. I cut mild steel blank and give it a somewhat harder edge welding whatever stick comes to hand. Works for me...and since I use it for maybe 8 hours most weeks spring thru fall, I touch up weekly with a belt sander, building with weld as and when necessary. (That was a 1 1/2-hour+ job on the MTD/Craftsman style, 20 minutes on this machine - another consideration...how much dismantling to change blades, clear a jam etc.).
Well that's a good idea, Lynnr!! I may see if I can scrounge up some T-1 or AR to make a new blade from. AR's pretty hard in it's own right.
Thanks,
Mike
Reason I use mild steel blank - cut, drill, countersink - easier to work ;-) Leastways, for an amateur...
I vote for the MacKissic 12PT. 4 acres of woods (Messy oaks, etc), keeps it busy. tough unit! Having the different sized grates, is very convenient.

http://www.mackissic.com/HSC_12P.html

I'm very happy with it... :fing32:

-gh
....I'll say forget it. Waste of time. They are hard work for not a lot, even 10hp and 13hp. After my last one blew up this year, I found this old Troy-bilt on craigslist.

:biglaugh: That's not an old troybilt, this is an old troy bilt





The only plastic on that chipper is the on/off switch on the engine.

That 8hp Briggs is now "deceased" having broke the crankshaft in half.


Another $75 8 hp briggs from a tiller and I'm back in business:fing32:

Jeff
I've got a smaller Mighty Mac, good enough for my small acreage.

When I was out looking, most all shops said to stay away from direct drive units, motor directly connected to the cutter. Drop a rock or hard wood in it, shear a shaft. With a belt drive, the belt will slip saving the motor.

Have to make a tractor tow bar for the 2 units that I have.

Work smarter, not harder.
I've got a smaller Mighty Mac, good enough for my small acreage.

When I was out looking, most all shops said to stay away from direct drive units, motor directly connected to the cutter. Drop a rock or hard wood in it, shear a shaft. With a belt drive, the belt will slip saving the motor.

Have to make a tractor tow bar for the 2 units that I have.

Work smarter, not harder.
I built this for my troy bilt.
Mike

Attachments

The B-26 goes on mine easy. I first tried a B-27 but it didn't last long. Just self destructed, my theory was it was backflexing too much around the idler pulley. Maybe I was hoggin' it too much. The B-26 has worked fine so far so I'll stick w/ it.
Yeah, I'm sure the extra 3 HP makes quite a difference. Have you found a place to get replacement blades? I can sharpen mine easy enough but it'll wear past that point some day.
Ocmoses, I don't know what your budget is, but if you have a tractor w/ 540 RPM PTO and sufficient HP I'd get a three point hitch type chipper. Otherwise I think all the older chippers are pretty good if they've had good care. Can't comment on the newer ones.

Mike

A "B-26" belt is actually 29" x 5/8",industrial belts use a weird numbering system,the "A" belts run 2" longer than the number says (So an A-26 would be 1/2" x 28") and the "B" belts are 3" longer than the number on them is..

A kevlar kelt would likely last much longer,as most A and B belts aren't rated for backside idler use and dont have strong cords,they are more suited for light duty "fractional HP" uses like fans,blowers,drill press,table saw,etc..but they'll usually last awhile in a pinch on a tractor or other equipment..I wasted two "B" belts in a matter of 20 minutes on my snowblower attachment ,but a Kevlar lawn & garden belt lasted the rest of the winter and is still looking good..the B belts cracked badly,they didn't like the idler pulley!..
I posted this in the Troy-Bilt tractor forum but didn't get much response - maybe one of the other Tomahawk owners here could comment?

I picked up a model #47266 chipper/shredder a little while ago. It had been sitting for a long time and the fuel system was full of water. I was able to clean it out - not pretty, but it runs well now. This is the 8 hp recoil start I/C Briggs version and was probably built sometime in the late 80s or early 90s for a guess.

When I tried chipping some branches, it wasn't really doing much. I powered down, let it come to a full stop, pulled the plug wire, and reached down into the chute to check out the condition of the knives. The moving knife feels nice and sharp and is ground at an angle as it should be. The fixed knife also feels like it has a nice square edge. There is, however, enough space for me to fit my fingers in between the two when they are next to each other and this is surely the cause for the poor chipping performance. Some of the branches were getting sucked between the knives and peeled, with long stringy chips exiting the chute.

I found a manual for the chipper, but it does not say anything about adjustments for the spacing of the chipper knives, only the steps to remove and replace the moving knife and nothing about the fixed one. I also have an exploded parts diagram. It does show some shims "as required" between the body of the machine and the bearing block next to the chipper inlet, but I bet I have 1/2" of clearance between the blades now and it came with a set of shims in there already.

Any thoughts? It looks like the spacing of the chipper drum in the housing is set by a bolt and heavy washer against the bearing on the end of the shaft near the chipper inlet. Maybe it's a matter of fabricating a cylindrical spacer to reset the drum depth. I can't figure out how it got like this in the first place, though.
I used the shredder section for my leaves this Fall after sucking them up with the bagger on my riding mower. Worked pretty well as long as the leaves weren't too damp, then it plugged up pretty bad even though I only have the wide-spaced bar grate.

I picked up one of the WW Grinder models just like the one pictured earlier in this thread, for free. No motor, but I'm thinking of hooking it up with a 3-point hitch and using it on my MTD 990. Not as big as the newer one, but the 3-point might be nice.
Thanks, Mike.
Lee, wet leaves don't do too good. Dry leaves are best, but the area in front of the exit chute has to be kept clear, else they back up.
The clearance on my Mighty-Mac 5hp chipper is about 1/8 nch or a bit less. Chips come out pretty small. Green wood is best. Is there any side-to-side play in the drum, as though a spacer might be missing? Is the side of the chamber bowed out as if something really hard got between the two cutting knives?
No, that's the thing - everything looks really good. No obvious damage, and the spacer shown on the parts list on the bearing opposite the engine side (which sets the spacing of the drum in the frame) is there. It all appears to have been assembled like this for a very long time.

The only thing I can see to do is to make a longer spacer to offset the drum and chipper disk closer to the anvil. That will mean loosening up the taper-lock pulley and resetting it to align with the pulley on the engine, or vice-versa. None of that stuff appears to have been disturbed.

Weird.
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