My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, it has been a while , I thought I would share my experience of swapping a 18 hp Duromax into my SS15 build. I could have posted in my build post but thought this might be more suitable for a separate post. I received the engine on Friday with no shipping damage (sigh of relief) Looked it over real good, seems to to be well built, threw some oil into it and some gas. I then attached the switch panel and tried to figure out the wiring, ignored the manual and wire colors and used common sense, I wanted to use the electric start to fire it up to test that side of it. once I had the wires sorted (more on that in a bit) it fired right up, it was quieter then I thought it would be and did not shake much, overall I was pleased with it.







Now the wiring was confusing at first and then it all fell into place, there is one brown charge wire from stator, a black one from coil (ground) a spaded one from switch to the "S" post on Solenoid and 2 black ones from Ignition switch (one for the coil ground and one for the low oil sensor) I will be by passing the solenoid on this using my original and disconnecting the low oil sensor.



I then removed my briggs off the tractor and got it ready for the swap.



Here it is on and mocked up to figure out position, I removed the gas tank because there is no way I could have the engine back far enough with it on

The 2 marks on the frame is where my briggs shaft positioned and where I need to get the 18hp to line up with, then all I need to do is make sure the belt lines up with the pulley on, this will determine where I mark my holes for drilling. I used a cardboard template of the base on the clone engine. I needed to drill 4 new holes. Center of shaft to base on the clone was 5 inches and the briggs was 6 inches, it did not appear to have any impact on the install, just need to adjust the belt tensioner a little.



This is it after drilling and mounting, eevrything looked good except I screwed up with the key on the shaft, it was tight and I tried tapping it in and now it will not go further in or come out (tomorrow's battle) The engine's off to the left but still had room for bolts.





Here you can see where I bolted on my positive battery lead from my solenoid onto the clone solenoid.



I need to install a drain pipe for oil changes.



Side note, when I removed the Briggs engine this was the carb side of the inline filter, amazing it ran.



And this is my newest purchase, a fairly new blade hardly used with a electric winch on it, blade and winch price up to $350 easy, I got it for $125





It does crank up, runs and shuts off on the tractor ignition switch now, that part was easy. More tomorrow when I continue this saga, need to get that key out, get another fuel filter, get another choke cable and hook up throttle cable.

Thanks for looking.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Will do Larry, just glad this will be a help to someone.

I got the key out and installed a new fuel filter and then took the tractor for a spin on the back lawn. It seem to have more speed then before, I went round going over all the leaves that had dropped off our Elm tree and it was pretty deep in places, engine did not slow down one bit and I was only at half throttle. It has plenty of power and torque to spare, even with a worn out deck which has all the pin holes flogged and noisy bearings and bad deck belt.

Here it is at a running stage





Belt alignment



Fuel line



I did a reading of the volts it was putting out of the charge coils and this was at Idle!!



Just need to figure out where to hook the charge wire up to. It looks like I might have to disconnect the original wiring from the amp meter and have hot from the ignition switch to the plus side and the charge wire to the negative side, at the moment it is reverse I am getting a negative charge showing. Do I need to go through the regulator? If some one can chime in here and give me a idea or two it would be great.

Tomorrow I will tackle the air box and exhaust, I have a week off work and this is how I R n R

Thanks for looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
Just need to figure out where to hook the charge wire up to. It looks like I might have to disconnect the original wiring from the amp meter and have hot from the ignition switch to the plus side and the charge wire to the negative side, at the moment it is reverse I am getting a negative charge showing. Do I need to go through the regulator? If some one can chime in here and give me a idea or two it would be great.

Tomorrow I will tackle the air box and exhaust, I have a week off work and this is how I R n R

Thanks for looking.

That charge wire should have had a DIODE. My clone had it on the control box side. It takes the place of a regulator.

EDIT: Should look something like this.
 

·
Cranky Motorsports
Joined
·
15,091 Posts
It's amazing how they can add more HP to these motors - that looks identical in size to the 11hp Greyhound thats in my ST/12 I am restoring right now. Its a very capable motor too even at 11HP- If this motor has a charging system, it's never worked... The battery will last 30 or 40 starts and will run the headlights for a long time, but I am glad it has pull start on it.






FYI you may get flack from some on repowering a classic, and I used to be one of those nay-sayers, but since I have repowered most of my machines, and I never have to tinker on the repowers, I say go ahead! I am sucking up all the diesels I can find too- I love the smell of a rich diesel in the cool weather :D
 

·
Cranky Motorsports
Joined
·
15,091 Posts
One other thing, I extended the wires on my ignition switch so i could move it up to the dash. You will need to enlarge the mounting hole in the dash too to accomodate the ignition switch if you do that - I also drilled out the holes to mount the reset switch on my dash.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
@codeman ''what else are your plans for it?''

Modify the exhaust and air box and modify that snow blade to fit.

@mightyraze ''Diode in wire''

I know what you mean but could not see an obvious one unless it is further back behind the shroud, if it does then that's why I am getting DC voltage.

@GT_80 ''Flak''

That does not worry me, I have kept every thing that's original so one day it can be put back to that condition if I want to. But the Briggs was twice as heavy as the clone and does not run as good. At the moment it is running off my original ignition system. if I extend the clone wiring I may as well remove the old wiring and regulator box and solenoid and just keep the wiring for the lights
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well I am a little stumped, I removed my regulator box but when I connect the charge wire out of the engine to one side of the amp gauge I get a light blue spark and the gauge needle moves off the zero mark 1/8 '' and stays there, it doesn't matter which side I hook up the wire it still moves the needle positive or negative. This is with the ignition off and engine not running. When I get the little spark I hear a light click in the engine.

I did another check of the out put on the charge wire but this time AC and this is what I get at full throttle. There is no visible diode in the wire unless it is behind the shroud. So I am guessing this is AC volts, do I need a rectifier?



Any help here would be greatly appreciated. The wiring is pretty basic that I can see, ground to ignition switch, hot to ignition going to amp gauge then down to solenoid hot side to battery, solenoid "S" wire going from ignition switch down to brake sensor and back again. Not counting the fuse wire which is for the lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
@mightyraze ''Diode in wire''

I know what you mean but could not see an obvious one unless it is further back behind the shroud, if it does then that's why I am getting DC voltage.
Mine was in the control/key box.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Mine was in the control/key box.
Thanks man you are a life saver, it was right where you said it was, going to the circuit breaker. I did not think to look there. So I should be able to remove that wire and hook it up to the charge wire and then to my Amp gauge right? if so I will then put everything back together (Dash loose and battery/clutch tray off) and get on with the exhaust and air box.

It is funny, of all the u-tubes and forum post about clone swaps no one mentions on the in's and out's of the wiring or throttle /choke cable set ups. Either it is real basic and I am dense but which ever it is I hope this thread helps others doing the same type of swap I am doing.
 

·
Cranky Motorsports
Joined
·
15,091 Posts
I'm not sure what your motor has on it for a throttle setup, but my Greyhound and the predators I believe all have a throttle lever with holes in it for a cable, and a clamp location near it - see these pics:
020_1.jpg

033_1.jpg


The choke I just manually open and close but you could drill a tiny hole in the lever, and use a cable if you get creative with a clamp point. The good thing is, it has no resistance on the choke lever so it would be an easy setup.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Got some more done today and made some good progress, hooked up the diode wire and took a reading and got this in DC volts



And got this on the battery



I am thinking it is only a 3 amp charge and not much good for much, that;s OK I was thinking of a mini alternator set up later anyway.

Next job was the throttle cable, I shortened it about 6'' and made a new "Z" then I oiled it before install, I had to make my own clamp and stole a screw off the muffler (Chinese threads=weird) I loosened the big nut on the throttle plate a smidgen to move more freely



Here is the clearance I got on the air box side with the cover off, I will take out a little of the grill knob that you see and grind off a bit of the plastic of the carb cover but it will still be close to the bolt, I can live with it. For a replacement cover for the air filter I was thinking of a heavy plastic jar withe top cut off and a hole in the bottom to mount on the stud. That will kill two birds with one stone, 1 It will eliminate any possible contact and shorts with head lights and 2 It will enable me to see at a glance if the air filter is dirty by looking through the clear plastic cover. Not factory correct but practicable.





Now the fun part, the exhaust, here it is with original muffler and manifold off.



I knew I would need a new exhaust flange but like a dummy I did not order one when I ordered the engine so in the spirit of the home handyman I made my own. I used pretty heavy plate, I wanted to over come the longer studs and be a little beefy. Not perfect but good enough.

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af107/Craig_Morrell/Sears SS15/DSCN0182.jpg





Here it is welded up to the pipe. I went over the welds a bit more after those pics.





And mounted on the engine with a bracket I made for my Briggs engine.









The muffler is just sitting on there with no clamp and the support bracket has no foot yet welded on and bolted to frame. I am still going to see if I can just go to a 90 deg elbow instead of the 90 and 45 street elbow but with both on it makes it easier to align the stack more straighter. I am also tossing up the idea of bringing the stack closer to the hood by 1 1/2'' but do not know if the time spent and welding to do it is worth it.

I will finish it off tomorrow and bolt everything on I have off and start it up, I think it will be the same loudness as my briggs but who knows?, it may surprise me.

Thanks for looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
Looks great! I did a similar flange for my muffler. Your welding is much better than mine :) I had to loosen my throttle plate nut too. It's a nylon nut so that should be fine. I've been 2 yrs just fine now.
 

·
15,000 +posts!
Joined
·
19,696 Posts
Been following your progress with interest--someday I may find a clone reasonably priced and put it in one of my Suburbans..

You can still find "waste nut flanges" at a good plumbing supply or hardware store,those save a lot of time and effort when making a custom exhaust--not sure if the China engines share the same flange bolt spacing as the usual Briggs or Tecumseh's,but they are a bolt on deal on those...I have used them to repair engines with stripped pipe threads in the exhaust port and create custom exhausts..
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,800 Posts
I assume that the 12.27 volts at the battery is the same with engine off or running? Means charging is not getting through to the battery.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top