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Discussion Starter #1
Well I got a super cheap timemaster 30” push mower. Iv been looking for you for a long time. Off the bat I can tell you I have my work cut out for me.
I put gas in it checked the oil and yanked the cord thinking I’d get lucky. After a few pulls it locked up. Thinking it may have been hydro locked I took the spark plug out and sat it aside.
Yanked the cord, gas shot out caught on fire then proceeded to burn. With quick thinking the wife-to-be grabbed the house fire extinguisher and sprayed it down.
I don’t think it hurt to much maybe need a new coil the wire is a tad burnt. Definitely a new motor shroud that started to melt.
To do list.
Dismount engine
Change carb
Change oil
Fuel screen
Fuel line
Wire wheel and paint under deck
Fix on/off switch
Find mulch plug
Find grass bag
Find side discharge chute
Remount engine
Find blade clutch cable
Fix personal pace cable

I hope to be ready by the end of October or at least spring if I get behind



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Discussion Starter #3
I think it sat outside a long time. Underside is pretty rusty and the spindles maybe a little growly.


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I'm not a fan of the 30" toros or exmarks as I don't think they save time over a 21". Also at their size and weight I'd rather just use a 36" walk behind. But it's all about what you like and what you're comfortable with. If you think it's worth fixing then go for it. I've never dug into one and I think it would be cool to see how they're engineered.
 

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Be careful with the bolts going into the deck, as they aren't hard to strip and there isn't much extra material to helicoil the threads.

And I find leaving the "porthole" in the cover over the deck belts off, as, at least with my Turfmaster, grass and dirt just builds up under that cover and fills it to the top. But leaving it open, no more buildup. And there's a heavier-duty set if idler wheels available (again, at least for my Turfmaster) that last significantly longer than the original ones that mine came with. And periodically check the deck pulleys, as the teeth will wear out, particularly with the cover sealed and all that debris building up under the cover.

I find that it (the Turfmaster with Kawasaki FJ180) is underpowered, as it has a lot of trouble with going up slopes. I also reworked the control to separate enabling the blade from the transmission control (similar to how the newer Turfmaster controls are), which I find works much better and is easier on the fingers.

I'm really annoyed that I missed out on a 36" hydro gravely this spring, that I'm certain would work much better for most of the places I use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got it all stripped down and only broke one bolt. Guess I’ll have to find a tap the tensioning pulley.



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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Found some oil based rustolium red and brushed that on. Probably should have done the first but I didn’t know I had it. I’ll get Troy built red next week. Maybe toro red if I can find it cheap


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Discussion Starter #10
Something about strokes for folks. So far it’s no more difficult than a lawnboy. The personal pace system is a copy of some of the LB self propelled designs. Iv never ran into a two piece design so far it very unique and fun to work on very shade tree


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the personal pace drive is the problem with this mower. its far to heavy for this . the comm models have same issue . drive isn't strong enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It is fairly heavy unit I could see how it would not last long if you’r mowing hillsides with it. I don’t know if my drive is good yet or not. It’s going to be a while before I get it all done


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Timemaster...I hate em, I hate em, I hate em, I hate em.

Fix it and sell it!!
They are marketed to cut more grass or faster for residential or to fool people into thinking they are something like a commercial 36 in walk behind and THEY ARE NOT.
I SIR, Know commercial walk behind mowers....and Timemaster, YOU are not one!!

A 22 in Toro Personal Pace is more durable .


The rear wheels are terrible with 3 little 5/16 screws going in to plastic to hold the steel drive gear to the wheel. "STEEL" is it really steel if it is PIM??

The blade engagement cable for the BOS as they call it now I think..use to be BBC blade brake clutch, is plastic on the end (same as other TOROs) and WILL eventually snap and is not easy to replace) HEAR THIS TORO?? MAKE THIS CABLE END METAL!!!! NOW

The TIMED blade belt is a delicate travesty AS ALL times blades are!!
The plastic pulley is weak and the bearing fail too often.
The tension adjustment is SO convoluted by the book. REALLY!! GO read it.
They could have made this SO much simpler. BUT no! Lets put and spring bar with ans air gap and a feeler gauge...FOR A BELT adjustment!!! GEEZ Toro.
Maybe this is why so many bearing fail as they are adjusted improperly...NAh we know they are not adjusted at all and they get loose so just cheap bearings. THat's nothing new. 90% to all bearings are cheap ans junky today.

The engine to blade pulley belt is just FINE and easy to replace GOOD JOB Toro!!
1 out or 4-5 ain't as bad as some I guess.

The deck is OK but will bend if you hit something with blade and tilt spindle mounting area (like I said NOT a commercial mower --just looks like one- tease tease) then when tilted the cogged blade belt will run at angle and be damaged or short lived.

The engine is all briggs so, well you know.. Adequate for most and plenty of power but it ain't no Kawi pull start on a scag pistol grip or even kohler command on a Tor Proline T-bar.

The folding handle is nice and strong enough too. BUT NOW Toro is putting the stupid rubber bouncy stops on everything and messing up a perfectly good design.

NOW REMEMBER ....Toro IS my favorite mower company. You should see how I talk to the other girls...

Fix it..Sell it..and RUN.
In this arena of residential wide walk behinds..MTD makes a better one in Troy Bilt or Cub Cadet. Wheels are metal at least a couple of years ago were and better cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got the motor mounted carb changed new shroud and pull cord. Also wired in a cheap switch so I can take the stock one back



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