With a battery ignition, your spark is only as good as your battery. If your relying on the stater to keep it running then you dont have that great of spark. In short, your battery is the sparks performance. I doubt anything is wrong with the stator do to those are protected by diodes. Your ampmeter is pegged becouse it's trying to keep up with everything electrical that by rights the battery should be doing. Get you a new bettery and i vouch to say, end of trouble.
charging sys on K 321 Kohler
this is on my JD 214; I currently have the tractor apart for other repairs so I gotta wait til i get the battery box in to be able to run it to check it out.
this problem started when my kid used the tractor one day and left the key on for some un known reason; the battery was STONE DEAD 2 days later when I went to use the thing.
So I jumped it off my Jeep; (NO I did NOT hook it up the wrong way!) and went to mow the neighbor's yard. Started off fine but then started cutting out unl;ess I idled the throttle. While it was running OK, the ammeter was pegged.
but if I disconnect the 3 wire plug to the regulator/rectifier the engine runs as it should. (just don't charge the battery) After the problem 1st showed up I did shut it down and throw a charger on the battery.
Did the stator fry?? Even if so this has a battery ignition; I thought the stator was solely for battery charging and running a couple headlights; so I don't see why, even if there is a problem with the stator why would my ignition cut out because of it??? Ignition and charging are 2 seperate functions.
I'm sure there's a way to check out the stator with a volt/ohm meter but
(1) between which terminals? (2) what range am I wanting if this thing is good? (3) take the readings running or not?
(4) From what I see, there's only a 15A stator available; I've seen a 30A one out there but not one that says to fit my motor. Is there one?
this problem started when my kid used the tractor one day and left the key on for some un known reason; the battery was STONE DEAD 2 days later when I went to use the thing.
So I jumped it off my Jeep; (NO I did NOT hook it up the wrong way!) and went to mow the neighbor's yard. Started off fine but then started cutting out unl;ess I idled the throttle. While it was running OK, the ammeter was pegged.
but if I disconnect the 3 wire plug to the regulator/rectifier the engine runs as it should. (just don't charge the battery) After the problem 1st showed up I did shut it down and throw a charger on the battery.
Did the stator fry?? Even if so this has a battery ignition; I thought the stator was solely for battery charging and running a couple headlights; so I don't see why, even if there is a problem with the stator why would my ignition cut out because of it??? Ignition and charging are 2 seperate functions.
I'm sure there's a way to check out the stator with a volt/ohm meter but
(1) between which terminals? (2) what range am I wanting if this thing is good? (3) take the readings running or not?
(4) From what I see, there's only a 15A stator available; I've seen a 30A one out there but not one that says to fit my motor. Is there one?
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
the battery IS new. and has been serving in another tractor just fine while I make my other repairs to the 214; I put a small(for car batteries) car battery in it; the battery box is that large; not a puny "garden tractor" battery. and it has to run strictly from the battery with the stator disconnected from the regulator; and runs beautifully.
Ok. Im not to hep on this new stuff but i think i would go to the regulator then. If your ammeter is pegged then the stator is abveously doing it's job. The regulator is there to regulate your charge. If the meter is pegged, naturally that would point to the regulator/rectifire not doing it's job.
that's what I am hoping; but it appears to have a direct short in it that affects the ignition signal. Once I get my rear seals and the trans re installed I can again run it and try to figure it out.
and "Big 10"; what do you mean "newer"; this tractor is a '77!
but whether it's the stator or the reg, I need some direction as to how to check out the system. am I looking for ohms, volts or amps and where while it runs; and how big of a part does the engine RPM play??
and "Big 10"; what do you mean "newer"; this tractor is a '77!
but whether it's the stator or the reg, I need some direction as to how to check out the system. am I looking for ohms, volts or amps and where while it runs; and how big of a part does the engine RPM play??
'77 is a little new for methat's what I am hoping; but it appears to have a direct short in it that affects the ignition signal. Once I get my rear seals and the trans re installed I can again run it and try to figure it out.
and "Big 10"; what do you mean "newer"; this tractor is a '77!
but whether it's the stator or the reg, I need some direction as to how to check out the system. am I looking for ohms, volts or amps and where while it runs; and how big of a part does the engine RPM play??
no offence, and i cant tell you using an ohmmeter but just by the signs of what the ammeter is doing, i would go to the regulator/rectifyer. Sorry i cant help any further. i try though.1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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