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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 05 DYT4000 917.275683 that I bought about 2 months ago.

the guy I bought it from put a brand new battery in it before he sold it to me.

so I would think the battery is good. the cables all look to be in good shape as well. the voltmeter on the dash has read real low while running since I got it.

is it my alternator? is there a way to test the alternator to be sure before spending money on a new part?

and if it is the alternator, where would be a good place to get one?
 

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Crank it up, warm it up and run the RPMs up where you mow. Check the battery voltage while at running speed. It should be a minimum of 13.5 volts because anything lower will not charge the battery. An ammeter only tells part of the story - you can be charging 35 amps but if the charge voltage is less than ~ 13.5, a '12 volt' battery will not charge up. If you get less than the 13.5 volts, the charging system is faulty.

The alternator is the next test - at an alternator shop - or Advance Auto test station. They will 'full field' it to determine if it is the regulator or the diode trio in the alternator.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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It could be a bad ignition switch- had that happen to my GT18- it would run fine for hours, shut it down, and dead. New ignition switch, runs great and turns over faster too!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks,

I had mowed my lawn about 4-5 times since I bought the tractor and it has started up fine everytime, yesterday after mowing I parked it while weed eating. when I went to start it up to put back in the shed the battery was dead. I figured since it was a brand new battery I was just running off straight battery and finally drained it down enough to not start.

I guess it's possible I just left the key on or something after I shut it off, but that still doesn't explain the low ammeter readings. that thing reads almost nothing while mowing, i just figured it was a bad meter since it had been starting just fine. then the battery went dead on me yesterday afternoon.

didnt have time to mess with it yesterday, ill jump start it this weekend and test it with a voltmeter
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It could be a bad ignition switch- had that happen to my GT18- it would run fine for hours, shut it down, and dead. New ignition switch, runs great and turns over faster too!!
that's certainly a possibility.

now that I think about it. yesterday when I shut it off, I turned off the key and it didn't shut down, I had to pull the choke out to get it to turn off.

is there anyway to test the switch?

I guess if I test the charging system and it seems to be charging alright I will just try a new switch and see if that does the trick
 

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Sounds more like the regulator/rectifier as the culprit.....
 

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Before spending money, I'd get the diagram for the switch, and check it with an ohmmeter. The nature of your problems points towards the switch being intermittent.
Cheap and easy to do, instead of throwing parts at it.
 

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You can download the owners manual from searsparts direct.com

Looking at the schematic, you can see that it shows the correct outputs.

Unplug the regulator. You should have 28 VAC MINIMUM between the 2 yellow wires coming from under the engine shroud. (note- that's AC volts) with the engine running at high speed
That will determine if the alternator is at fault.

IF it's good, you should then test the voltage regulator output (red wire)
This will be DC volts
Basically with every thing "hooked up", compare the battery voltage with the engine off and the engine running at high speed. It should be noticeably higher when running.
A very discharged/bad battery can "drag" the voltage down to less than what one would normally expect.

A quick and dirty test is simply observe the headlight brightness when running or not.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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A quick and dirty test is simply observe the headlight brightness when running or not.
Again, when my GT18 had a bad switch, the headlights would flicker when running. I thought it was weird cause i thought it could be the alternator (stator whatever you cal lit) bad on my B48M motor, but i switched the motor, and i KNOW the new motor had a good stator in it, and the lights still flickered... Motor cranked hard like always too even with new starter. Then one day i noticed that my hour meter did not shut off when the key was off, so i knew something was screwed up!! Changed the switch, all problems went away! Lights bright all the time, battery charges and motor always cranks, and the hour meter stops when motor is shut down.
 
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