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changing oil in K46 transaxle...

17652 Views 17 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  sproulman
I'm trying to change the oil in my K46HD transaxle, but I'm having trouble locating the fill hole.

I've looked at the diagrams on the Tuff Torq website, and there are two possibilities: One is called a "vent", which has a rubber plug with a hole and a black cap. The other has a metal cap, and the diagrams show a magnet and magnet-holder underneath.

Which one is the correct one to open in order to drain/replace the oil?

Does it just pry off?

Thanks for the help!

-dan
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I'm trying to change the oil in my K46HD transaxle, but I'm having trouble locating the fill hole.

I've looked at the diagrams on the Tuff Torq website, and there are two possibilities: One is called a "vent", which has a rubber plug with a hole and a black cap. The other has a metal cap, and the diagrams show a magnet and magnet-holder underneath.

Which one is the correct one to open in order to drain/replace the oil?

Does it just pry off?

Thanks for the help!

-dan

I just replaced my oil this weekend in my K46.

The 'vent', with a rubber cap and plug is where you want to go.

The vent is actually in 2 parts. a 'cap' and a 'plug'.

The cap pulls off the plug and then the plug can be taken out.

I first thought when taking it out that I was destroying the cap because it looked initially like a single piece that was tearing when I took it out. Once the cap was offf then you can remove the plug. When the plug was out I had to put the cap back on the plug it and it took some 'fiddling' to do so.

I measured what I took out and got 2.25 quarts out of mine.

I put synthetic back in, Now I can do 'wheelies'. :thThumbsU (at least it did when I did the power starts/stops to purget the air)

I replaced mine at 75 hours, mainly because the L130 sat for over 2 years in a garage and I was wondering if I was getting moisture in it from sitting and doing nothing
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did they say what oil to put back in it.i used to know but as i get older i seem to forget?:fing20:

http://www.tufftorqservices.com/isroot/tts/FlatHTML/TechInfo/docs/TFluidGrease.htm

Model - FLUID/LUBRICANT TYPE LITRES

K58 10w30, API Class Motor Oil 2.45




I stuck in 10w30 Mobil 1 in mine, figured the synthetic would help against the heat better.
For my k58 he recommended synthetic. I asked him why does JD use regular then. He said to keep cost down. COME ON, REALLY??!!. How much more could synthetic be especially when ur talking bout 2 qts??
I paid $6.99 for a quart of Mobil 1 synthetic when I changed mine. I didn't price the conventional but it was more than $1 cheaper per quart i'm sure.

Just remember that you may see it as a small monetary difference between synthetic and conventional oil for one tractor.

JD sees that cost multiplied by each and every tractor that is built.

Same reason why they don't pay for the drain plug in the K46 or other transaxles. I think I read somewhere that it was less than $1 additional per unit but again that is another $1 multiplied by every one built and they are looking at the bottom line.

Given the volume of tractors sold that can add to a significant amount of money.

Is it right? Not when you look at it as 'cutting corners', but it is a reality...
i think the sealant was on pan and came off easy.what kind of plugs are you getting and where are locations they want them installed.
Given the fill location on the L130 when I replaced the fluid it was easier to just take the transaxle out and dump/replace the fluid instead of trying to snake a suction line in and get all the fluid out. A drain plug would have helped this part.

With it removed I knew I had all the oil out when it was done. I could pick up the transaxle and roll it around in my hands to make sure I had it drained fully. I did this a few times and got even more oil out.

Even with a drain plug you still will have some issues with refilling it while the transaxle is still in the tractor.

With the unit out I could easily fill and make sure visually that the fluid level was where it needed to be.

Im not saying dont put in a drain plug, Im saying that by completely removing the transaxle I was able to inspect everything, clean the fins out properly (had some mud caked in from the prevous owner) and ensure that all was clean going back together. I try and blow the grass out after each time I mow but the unless I took it out I wouldn't have been able to get the mud removed from the fins and it would probably run hotter with the obstructions.

Of course I have air tools so it took longer to let it drain than it was to get the transaxle out.
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