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Discussion Starter #1
I have never had or worked on a generator before and hopefully I can bring it back to life. I picked this up at a local Estate sale for $25.00. So far this is what I have found.

1. The CHAMPION web site where I can hopefully order parts I need.

2. The operator manual with parts break down.

3. a MTF Generator Forum WooHoo!

The Generator is missing the pull start assembly and air cleaner, I can start it without these to see if the engine runs. I have removed the gas tank and carb for cleaning. I also removed the electrical panel. The inside of the generator doesn't look good, but not hopeless.

I do have spark! spun the engine with the drill and it has a good spark on the plug.

Onward and upwards, this may be fun.
 

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I think I am as far into this as I want to be for now. Trying to decide the best method to clean up the stator section. I think my theory is correct about the mud splashing up through the rear vents, I don't see any evidence of it being under water.
 

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Is it a generator or an alternator. My Generac 5500 alternator set for years after using it in Ice storm in early 2000. It would not put out power. I plug in a eletrric drill and turned it by hand to put spark back in the alternator. I now use it regular to power a electric chain saw and pole saw.
 

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It is an alternator, the terms get used interchangeably. As long as the unit turned freely I would have tried to start it and determined if it produced power before tearing it down but that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wasn't sure if it was under water or not. I am at the point now that I'll re-assemble it and attempt starting it (after a oil change). I Got the pressure washer out, and couldn't resist hitting the engine too, it was nasty under the shroud. I plugged all the holes with shop towels and pulled them out as soon as I finished. I'll let everything dry for a few hours while I clean up the electrical and get the drum sticks ready for the grille. I did verify spark before tearing it down, and I have been going crazy in the Man Cave with no projects going on, so the teardown came first.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is going quicker than I thought, so much for a long term project. Electrical is cleaned up, blew out the spider nests, wiped the wires and contacts down, and brushed most of the mud and dust off. The only thing left to clean is the carb, and the work space for assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Carb cleaning and Dinner. Took a lot of wire brushing to clean the boul, and the needle valve was crusty. Dinner took over. Will get back to this tomorrow.
 

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I guess it is a tinkering project for you but it pains me to see the of all the work done.

I would have blown out the end cover with air hose and never taken the cap off.

It is a typical chinese engine with Huayi carb. MAny honda parts fit but yo sholdn't need any. I would have cleaned out carb well and fired it up and see if it produces power. If not you excite the field with a electric drill. Most gensets are fine. They just have a clogged up carb.
Note on these carburetors: Anytime one will start and run but surges, it is the "idle circuit" or what it left of it.
The roundish push in plastic plug under the min speed stop screw (also plastic) has a tiny jet in the end of it that must be clear to run perfectly.
I always just clean the main jet up in the aluminum tube of body or carb in the bowl first but if it surges after that, then the other one is plugged.


Don't buy any parts from Champion (if you can).
Get the number and get anything on ebay.
These complete carbs are under 17.00 shipped to your door but the manufacturer of the generator will charge you 65-85 plus shipping.

The other problem with these is the voltage regulator goes out. Also available for a fair price on ebay.

Never put any fuel in the tank that is not fresh (same day bought) stabilized fuel.
1 oz of StaBil for each gallon on fuel.
StaBil into empty gas can, add fuel. Go home and fill up item
Store it full to prevent tank rust on steel tanks.
They were using plastic for a number of years but there was a recall due to leaks at cracks and the all went back to steel.

Start and run once a year or so for 20-30 mins and check ac output. Continue to top off with fresh stabilized fuel or eventually even stabilized fuel will go bad and gum up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, yes this is a tinkering project as I have a bad case of summer bordum between yard maintenance weekends. This was purchased for $25 as-is and missing parts (air filter housing and pull starter). "IF" I do get it running I plan to replace the missing parts, and a few others that may be questionable.
The fuel I use year round is 5 gallons of gas + Red StaBil + STP Carb cleaner mix.

IF I don't get it running I may try and find a way to run the generator assy off one of my tractors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Before and after... A few more things to button up after I get back from town, and I'll be trying a start up.
 

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Changed the oil, cleaned the gas tank and finished assembly. Tools are put away and the camera battery is charging. Waiting on shade right now.
 

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Changed the oil, cleaned the gas tank and finished assembly. Tools are put away and the camera battery is charging. Waiting on shade right now.
It will run no problem.
A clean carb is all those chinese ones (Loncin or Lifan I think) need most all the time. Remember what I posted before about if it surges at running speed the other jet needs cleaned with a tiny wire.

Also make sure you set the speed by voltage or a hertz meter even better. The old ones were 3600 but that still wouldn't be as exact as setting by hertz voltage cycles. I like to have a little load on it when setting as it will drop some voltage and a I assume hertz will too.
I set one the other day with two hand drills. Not much difference with one vs two running but big difference than just running with no load. This one is the first I have used with the idle control. I now have 3 generators and I like the idle down a lot!
I guess it wouldn't matter too much if you were using for a house as there would probably always be enough load to keep it running full rpms. I don't know it you can adjust the kick -in point but if you only had one small lamp or two running (if incandescent) you could let them be dim on the low speed. Never thought much about it as I have only had full on all the time ones.
 

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Also make sure you set the speed by voltage or a hertz meter even better. The old ones were 3600 but that still wouldn't be as exact as setting by hertz voltage cycles. I like to have a little load on it when setting as it will drop some voltage and a I assume hertz will too.
Sorry if I've misunderstood, but a Hz meter, or engine RPM, will both get you to the same place. 3600 RPM = 60 Hz. A Kill-A-Watt meter will show Hz. A simple induction tachometer (as an example) will give you engine RPM.

My Generac service manual suggested tuning to 61.5-63.5 Hz with no load. Under a load, it would sag closer to 60 Hz.
 

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Sorry if I've misunderstood, but a Hz meter, or engine RPM, will both get you to the same place. 3600 RPM = 60 Hz. A Kill-A-Watt meter will show Hz. A simple induction tachometer (as an example) will give you engine RPM.

My Generac service manual suggested tuning to 61.5-63.5 Hz with no load. Under a load, it would sag closer to 60 Hz.
That's what I was saying. You can't trust an old one to be at correct rpms which is probably 3600. People like to monkey with screws.

Many people don't have really accurate tachs for engines. I would trust a hertz meter over a vibratach.
I have never read a manual for one.
Neat that is says 61.5-63.5 no load.
I have always adjusted with a mild to medium load to 60 or 60.5 hz or 123-125v.
I never really worry about what it is at no load and when I use them they are really not going to be without load at any time.
A few higher would be safer for most things than lower....all within reason though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like a winner! Fun Weekend project! I need the air filter assembly and carb kit before I run it too much. I can get by with the drill starter for now.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ran into a slight snag....

How Do I Order Replacement or Spare Parts and Accessories?
Updated 1 month ago by Scott Henning
Parts
All replacement parts are stocked in our facilities in Southern California and Burlington, ON, Canada. At this time we do not have an online parts ordering system.
To place an order for spare or replacement parts, please give our Technical Support Team a call at 1-877-338-0999, Monday through Friday, between 8:30 AM and 5 PM (PST).
 

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I wouldn't do it I never order replacement parts from the manufacturer as you will pay through the nose for them plus lots of shipping and handling. You wait till you need a certain part and find that part on eBay. Whether it's a capacitor, voltage regulator, or even a switch or circuit breaker. They're all available individually. Whether it's a Ryobi, Generac, or Harbor Freight, it's all just generic Chinese stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Going to send them this list for a quote and availability and see what they respond with.

CHAMPION 3500 4000
MODEL 46598
ENGINE YF168FD-2-010
JUNE 2014

Parts Needed
Critical Engine Parts
1 ea #18 Air Cleaner Assembly 24.091000.21
2 ea #51 Flange Nut M6 1.6177.06
1 ea #95 Breather Tube 23.020001.02
1 ea #16 Gasket, Air Cleaner 24.130004.20
1 ea #31 Gasket, Carburetor 22.130003.00
1 ea #34 Insulator, Carburetor 23.130001.00
1 ea #18 Carburetor 26.131000.20 (or rebuild kit)

Non-Critical Engine Parts
1 ea #17 Recoil Assembly 22.061000.00
1 ea #45 Pipe, Fuel (140) 122.070011.05

Non-Critical Generator Parts
1 ea #53 Fuel Meter Assembly 122.072000.00
1 ea #14 Carbon Brush Assembly 122.190300.00
 
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