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Discussion Starter #1
Couple questions:

1. Is the botton of the cylinder supposed to be pitted?

2. Are the valves supposed to have grooves?

This is the 1973 816 limited slip with steering brakes I picked up that had the broken shifter fork. After replacing the shifter fork I used it to mow the grass, 3-4 acers. I started to notice it used oil and had noticeable blow by, also I couldn't keep the oil clean. This model cck has the breather straight to atmosphere which makes the blow by more noticeable, not so much visually but you could smell burnt oil. Other than that, it honestley ran great. Knowing it was pretty worn out I imagined some wear inside but was surprised to see the pittting and worn valves.

If it had enough power to swing a 50" deck and pull a 60" tow behind in this condition I cant wait to see what it is like rebuilt!
 

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no and no

It is hard to tell what condition the valves are in. It is possible that what you are seeing is just deposits.

Looks like you will need to have the block bored to get rid of the pitting.
 

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The pitting may be "optically" deep,,,,, I would hone it before I bored it.

The pitting might only be 0.001" deep,,,, :dunno: honing would "fix" that!! :fing32:
I agree. I have seen scored cylinders clean up nicely with a good honing. True enough, you only get to do it once, but I always think it better to do the least first and escalate only as necessary.
 

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Time to measure the bore. No sense in honing if the bore is already worn out of spec.
 

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Be sure to bring a copy of the dimensions and tolerances from the manual.
 

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I almost bought a bore indicator until I realized that it really didn't do what was needed. A bore indicator is OK but it won't tell you if the worn bore is elliptical and by how much which most are. You can't get a good ring seal if the bore is egg shaped.

This is what I use. Takes a little more finesse to use but you know what you have when you are done.

2"-12" inside micrometer from Fowler. About $100. Includes standard.
 
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My digital bore indicator works great. It will measure run out etc like the post above mentions. You Ali need a micrometor to calibrate it. The dial indicator was around $100 I think I either got it on eBay or amazon..
 
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Here it is. It's only $50 now. You need to get a 3-4" micrometor to set this two. For example you need to set it to a known value. If your bore is 3.25" you start by setting the indicator to 3.25". I should make a video of how to use it....

Http ://www.ebay.com/itm/330880385983
 

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That would work. I was referring to the 3 legged variety. Those won't work.

 

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The three legged variety is called an intrimic and Richard is right, it's the best tool for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm working night shift right now so my dad took all of the cleaned up CCKA parts out to the machine shop below are the results.

The crank is fine, he will machine polish the journals.

He will bore the block 0.020 over

He will clean up the valves and seats and check the valve guides.* He doesn't recommend valve seals.* (Complete valve job, grind seats etc.)

He will look "upstairs" and he thinks he has standard rod and crank bearings.* He will let me know*tomorrow.*

He doesn't recommend replacing the cam bearings because the new ones are crap. Something about the factory ones are installed and line honed and not to replace unless you have to.

The camshaft lobes and bearings can be polished with Scotchbrite.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was expecting to have to replace the valves but it sounded like he may be able to clean them up and just do a valve job.

Have you all had this kind of luck or did you end up replacing valves?
 

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steve
IF the cam brgs are BAD they must be replaced.
BUT he must use the OEM 11/16" wide style. ( not the 5/16 style )
the cam brgs DO tend to loose the babbit coating. ( in chunks )
i also do stock all of the main and rod brgs. STD 10,20 and 30.
thank you. boomer
 
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