Case paint

After reading about the danger of isocyanates I wonder if I want to even bother with hardener. Don't get me wrong about how it effects paint. I've painted at least a dozen vehicles in my day and I assume it was just as deadly back then.
But done properly and left to dry the enamel should look ok and be easy to touch up.

The paint Case Power Red paint sold by Case IH (Iron Guard) dealers is made by Valspar and is an alkyd enamel (after a few phone calls I was able to get the MSDS and TDS from Valspar). I've read, but cannot confirm, that the Valspar acrylic enamel hardener is suitable for the Case Power Red paint. I've also read, but cannot personally attest, that the mixing ratio is 8:1:1. I can tell you from experience that the Power Red paint in aerosol cans that can be purchased at a Case IH dealer tends to be pretty soft so I would recommend some form of hardener if you are mixing and doing the spraying.

Hope this helps.

I have the Case paint and the primer and reducer.
I read a lot today and talked to a doctor I know. Simply put, there are no masks beyond the forced air variety that can protect you from isocyanates. And if you use hardener you are exposed to isocyanate.
This is a real dilema for me. I believe a 3M 600 series mask and carts could filter out isocyanates for one job however I am painting inside and have no forced/filtered air. I could wait until spring and possibly paint outside (with the mask and suit) on a calm day with the correct temp and humidity but that is a real crap shoot.
I may just shoot the enamel with thinner and whatever it is it is. I still enjoy cycling and do weekly races. I don't want to ruin the years ahead because I wanted my tractor to shine a bit more bright.
There is really no safe way to do this at home. Since you can't smell isocyanates or taste them, a mask that doesn't fit perfectly could end up killing you in the years ahead.

Rico, last spring I painted my 224 with the Case IH off the shelf 1 pint can. and a roller and brush. no the smooth finish you looking for, but i can atest, it is hard, and fuel proof.

I have no dings, and no flaking of anytype either, and i put it on very thick.

I'll try to dig up a picture of my painting job, and post it for you to see.

If you painting your working tractor, and not your restore tractor, i see no reason why a can of Case IH sunset red won't work.

Jay

There i edit my post:

jayvee43 said:

Rico, last spring I painted my 224 with the Case IH off the shelf 1 pint can. and a roller and brush. no the smooth finish you looking for, but i can atest, it is hard, and fuel proof.

I have no dings, and no flaking of anytype either, and i put it on very thick.

I'll try to dig up a picture of my painting job, and post it for you to see.

If you painting your working tractor, and not your restore tractor, i see no reason why a can of Case IH sunset red won't work.

Jay

There i edit my post:

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That looks pretty good for a roller!
I am going to use my HVLP gun or the conventional gun if outside. I'm not considering this anything but a tractor that is going to cut the grass, till the garden and blow the snow. Its going to work.
If the paint is fuel proof thats good enough for me.
I wonder how others here are applying the 2K paint safely?

For a minimal investment prep the tractor parts for paint and take it to a local body shop and have them spray it. Colors are readily available and materials could be the latest base coat/clearcoat finish or single stage depending upon your wishes. Yeah... a little bit of money but this is something that will last for years and years and should prove very durable as well as looking good. Nice to do everything we can in our own shops but this way you'll have a nice paint job and none of the health problems or hazardous waste problems.

Bill O'Rourke said:

For a minimal investment prep the tractor parts for paint and take it to a local body shop and have them spray it. Colors are readily available and materials could be the latest base coat/clearcoat finish or single stage depending upon your wishes. Yeah... a little bit of money but this is something that will last for years and years and should prove very durable as well as looking good. Nice to do everything we can in our own shops but this way you'll have a nice paint job and none of the health problems or hazardous waste problems.

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I thought about that option when I was pricing out some epoxy primer. The price of the material could easily exceed $400 and then then labour. I would guess spraying all the little bits and the frame could take 4-5 hours of shop time and at $100 per hour that would add up quick. I could prime it myself and save $200 but still, thi is a job you need to do yoursefl to save any money.
Spraying a single stage like the Case paint is pretty safe at home. The 3M masks I have will filter safely and the only real hazard is overspray in my garage. Its the isocyanates that are the deal killer.

ricohman said:

I have the Case paint and the primer and reducer.
I am painting inside and have no forced/filtered air. I could wait until spring and possibly paint outside (with the mask and suit) on a calm day with the correct temp and humidity but that is a real crap shoot.

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Cheap filter "system" that I have used indoors and it does work pretty good.
A cheap window box fan in the garage window blowing out, and a cheap furnace air filter on the back of it. Buy at least 6 of the filters about 3 bucks apiece as they will fill up pretty quick.

[email protected] said:

Cheap filter "system" that I have used indoors and it does work pretty good.
A cheap window box fan in the garage window blowing out, and a cheap furnace air filter on the back of it. Buy at least 6 of the filters about 3 bucks apiece as they will fill up pretty quick.

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I've thought about something like this built outside with a 2x4 frame and poly. The filters could keep the bugs and dirt out.
Do you use a forced air hood/suit? Or are you painting without hardener?

ricohman said:

I've thought about something like this built outside with a 2x4 frame and poly. The filters could keep the bugs and dirt out.
Do you use a forced air hood/suit? Or are you painting without hardener?

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No forced air suit, just a good 3M mask and a throw away suit, pretty low tech here. I have painted cars and trucks like this, with good $$ paint :biglaugh:

I have also done it like you said, poly booth, just remember to cut a air intake in one end the same size as the outlet in the other and put a filter over it too. I tried it a few ways and found putting the intake up high and the outlet down low really worked well, if you put them in a straight line from each other you will move a lot of air, but not much paint over spray.
P.S. Old furnace blowers more a lot of air if available to you, but any fan will work.:goodl:

[email protected] said:

No forced air suit, just a good 3M mask and a throw away suit, pretty low tech here. I have painted cars and trucks like this, with good $$ paint :biglaugh:

I have also done it like you said, poly booth, just remember to cut a air intake in one end the same size as the outlet in the other and put a filter over it too. I tried it a few ways and found putting the intake up high and the outlet down low really worked well, if you put them in a straight line from each other you will move a lot of air, but not much paint over spray.
P.S. Old furnace blowers more a lot of air if available to you, but any fan will work.:goodl:

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I've been under estimating what one needs to paint safely. If this is the minimum for paint without hardener I guess only a full hood with a seperate air supply is the only safe way. I made many phone calls yesterday and it seems that I cannot buy the hardener regardless. I need to be an accredited body shop that has the proper equipment. Canada has gone the way of the U.K and banned these substances.
The gov't has protected me from myself!

Quote: "Simply put, there are no masks beyond the forced air variety that can protect you from isocyanates."

I don't think this is strictly true. A good mask will protect you, IF, and these are mandatory:
1: you have no facial hair and your mask fits well, NO Leaks.
2:You new cartridges every couple of days AND keep the cartridges in a sealed plastic bag when not in use.
3: cover all exposed skin, gloves, long sleeves, cap, face shield (if you're using a half rather than full mask.

As I understand it, The reason that masks aren't officially endorsed is the lack of odor. The isos have none, so you may have no warning of a leak or worn cartridges. But, the thinners and paint surely stink, and if you smell them in your mask: STOP and fix the problem.

I'm not recommending anything, just relating my understanding and practices. Been painting this way for 20+ years with no issues.

jayvee43 said:

Rico, I tryed looking, can't source anyghing yet, you may want to read this thread it speaks of hardener going wrong. maybe you can pick up something.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=440647

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I've also read some good things about the Valspar paint. Anyway, the Case IH paint (at least in the U.S) appears to be made by Valspar. I can buy Valspar implement paint at Princess Auto but nobody seems to sell the hardener in Canada.
Is the hardener still sold in the U.S? I wonder if this could be mailed to me? I'm guessing it would be seized at the border.

antiqueetc said:

Yep, hardener is available in the U.S.. Even my local Atwoods(a TSC lookalike) has it for their Van Sickle paints which are nearly identical to Valspar.

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Thanks for the info. Soonest I will be in the U.S in July and I'm not planning on waiting that long to paint. Anyone have a ballpark price on what this hardener is worth? Either the Napa Crossfire or the Valspar?
Why is it still available in the U.S? Or is Canada the nanny state that I thought it was?

wseternmd said:

I may have just missed it in the thread if so sorry for the redundance. Are you guys saying that Valspar makes the ingy paint or valspar makes a paint that is similar in color to the original??

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I received an email from someone who contacted Valspar and they do not make Case paint. They do however make the later red but not the power red.