Sounds like broken differential bolts to me. If transaxle housing isn’t broken, maybe easy fix.
case/ingersoll 226 Hydriv
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yes, thanks to both, I see that now. There is a document from manuals.caseingersoll.com that describes replacing four bolts as preventative, is that what you did (link below)? so that would be unbolting transaxle from rest of drivetrain, draining, replacing, rebuilding, yes? (wishing I had an actual garage 
I'll wait to see what I find, but it also makes sense since it looks like the power from the hydraulic motor shaft goes first to the right wheel and then the L follows via the differential - so a snag on the L wheel would still allow the R to be driven, right - kind of like having a cinder block chocking the L wheel except the block is inside the transaxle
The Hydraulic motor drives an intermediate sliding gear. Which is what makes HI - Low shifting possible. You can't see the hydraulic motor shaft or the low speed drive gear in this picture, they're below the oil level:
![2458238]()
The differential 'carrier' is in the bottom center and those 4 bolts hold both of the final drive gears and the carrier all together as one unit. So NO the motor does not drive one side or the other it drives the differential that in turn drives the axle shafts.. The ends of the axle shafts are those small narrow looking 'gears' in the center of the differential carrier.
Best course of action is to drop the rear end, there are only like 6 bolts that hold it on and with a parts manual from the Case - ingersoll site tear it down and see whats up. Then get alhold of for any parts you need.
![2458239]()
all of the tractors 200, 400. 600. 3000. 4000, 6000 use the same rear end differential and gears. the only differences are in the drive motors and whether the axle shafts are 5 bolt or 6 bolt.
The differential 'carrier' is in the bottom center and those 4 bolts hold both of the final drive gears and the carrier all together as one unit. So NO the motor does not drive one side or the other it drives the differential that in turn drives the axle shafts.. The ends of the axle shafts are those small narrow looking 'gears' in the center of the differential carrier.
Best course of action is to drop the rear end, there are only like 6 bolts that hold it on and with a parts manual from the Case - ingersoll site tear it down and see whats up. Then get alhold of for any parts you need.
all of the tractors 200, 400. 600. 3000. 4000, 6000 use the same rear end differential and gears. the only differences are in the drive motors and whether the axle shafts are 5 bolt or 6 bolt.
Get the parts manual if you have not already, There is a 'c -clip' on the end of each axle in the center of the different gears.
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in the picture I posted in the center there is a vertical rod and to the left and right it looks like small teeth, those are the ENDS of the axles, and the smooth area right next to those are the C Clips. Once you pop those clips out, the axles WILL slide right out of the tractor and the one that's NOT turning if it won't move, you found where your issue is.
The hydraulic motor drives the entire gear carrier via either the large gear on the right end (standing behind the tractor) or via the smaller gear on the left and those are all bolted together and rotate as one unit. The 'Spider gears' that are the actual differential are inside the central housing and those allow the axles to turn at different speeds.
and once you get the axles out and before you ask to get the gear cluster out, you have to POP out the brake shaft and gear and I do mean POP. There is an internal snap ring inside the brake gear. so you put a long and large punch on the inside end of the axle shaft and rap it sharply with a large hammer, like a 2 POUND sledge, not some tack hammer and the shaft will pop loose.
If you're that far in, order all new seals from Barneveld and save trouble down the road.
in the picture I posted in the center there is a vertical rod and to the left and right it looks like small teeth, those are the ENDS of the axles, and the smooth area right next to those are the C Clips. Once you pop those clips out, the axles WILL slide right out of the tractor and the one that's NOT turning if it won't move, you found where your issue is.
The hydraulic motor drives the entire gear carrier via either the large gear on the right end (standing behind the tractor) or via the smaller gear on the left and those are all bolted together and rotate as one unit. The 'Spider gears' that are the actual differential are inside the central housing and those allow the axles to turn at different speeds.
and once you get the axles out and before you ask to get the gear cluster out, you have to POP out the brake shaft and gear and I do mean POP. There is an internal snap ring inside the brake gear. so you put a long and large punch on the inside end of the axle shaft and rap it sharply with a large hammer, like a 2 POUND sledge, not some tack hammer and the shaft will pop loose.
If you're that far in, order all new seals from Barneveld and save trouble down the road.
If you're replacing the seals, they can be pried out which will destroy them. To get the bushing out I know I ran a really long, smaller shaft, like 3/8" from one axle opening all of the way across the tranny to the other side so I could tap out the outer bushing on that side. Getting the inner bushing out was not as much of a problem.
But, if the axles don't have huge wear on it, the bearing should be OK, just install new seals for the age.
The rims on the CCI tractors have a HUGE back set, like 5 to 6 inches.. There should be SEVERAL inches clearance between the rims and that motor.
Tried to find something that shows the spacing, I'm a Case LOADER guy, so I don't have pictures of 2xx and 4xx tractors. Also know that the Case rims are installed with the valve cores to the INSIDE of the wheel, not on the outside to protect them. If someone flipped the rims so the valve cores are on the outside I don't think they would even bolt up the offset on the rims is so large
![2471779]()
Thats a Case 646, but it has the same rear axle as 2xx and 4xx tractors.. The frame is different,but rim - tire offset is comparable.
But, if the axles don't have huge wear on it, the bearing should be OK, just install new seals for the age.
The rims on the CCI tractors have a HUGE back set, like 5 to 6 inches.. There should be SEVERAL inches clearance between the rims and that motor.
Tried to find something that shows the spacing, I'm a Case LOADER guy, so I don't have pictures of 2xx and 4xx tractors. Also know that the Case rims are installed with the valve cores to the INSIDE of the wheel, not on the outside to protect them. If someone flipped the rims so the valve cores are on the outside I don't think they would even bolt up the offset on the rims is so large
Thats a Case 646, but it has the same rear axle as 2xx and 4xx tractors.. The frame is different,but rim - tire offset is comparable.
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