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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was putting the blower on and noticed that the idler pulley bearing was a bit noisy. I got a bit of grease into it but it should be replaced before I need it and can't use it. The part is a Fafnir 10874 which is 2 halves of a pulley riveted together trapping a bearing inside. The challenge is that the assembly is expensive and I want to do it cheaper. The bearing that is captured between the pulley halves is probably about 1/3 the price of the assembly or less.

20201121_164904.jpg


I'd like to try to drill (or grind) the rivets out and replace just the bearing.

Has anyone tried this? Does anyone know the part number of the bearing inside?

Thanks!
 

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I've done that process on a number of idlers like that one, and so far, I've found they've used standard, easily available (local bearing shops for me) bearings. Some will have a pressed in bushing that can be pressed out and then pressed into the new bearing. I also use bolts to hold the pulleys together after doing this, rather than riveting the pulley back together, as it makes replacement down the road that much easier.

There typically will be a part number in the side of the bearing (depending on the bearing, it'll sometimes be in the shield, sometimes on the side of the inner or outer race). Also note, that while most newer bearings will be metric, you can also get one with a part number that indicates one of these, but it has an imperial i.d. )or possibly o.d.). This happened to me, with a bearing that the p/n for the bearing was 12mm, but you could get a bearing with the same part number (the new part had an extension to the p/n indicating the 1/2" id), but with a 1/2" i.d. Just something to watch out for...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I figured it had been done before but I wanted to be sure. I was thinking socket heads with lock nuts to put it back together.
 

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Here's some links to pics of ones I did:

I used #10 socket head bolts with nyloc nuts, just the right size to fit in the existing rivet holes without needing to drill them out (your idler's rivets may be a different size). I also marked the pulley halves so I could reassemble them in the same orientation with each other, just in case they are machined that way (vs each half done separately).
 

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I had a similar idler pulley on my Ariens mower deck that needed a bearing. The Ariens part was ridiculously expensive, and I was planning on doing what you proposed, but then I found one at Tractor Supply that was almost perfect for about $10. I’d check them out and see if they have one that’ll work- they had several sizes.
 
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