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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I just bought an old Case 220 tractor yesterday to help clear snow this winter. If anybody is near me you will agree I didn't get it a day too soon. I had some general questions about the tractor and attachments. I think the tractor was well taken care of, I'm not sure of the year but hood and fenders are yellow and rims and frame are dark orange. Is there anything that I should check with the drive system before using it? It has a manual lift bar on the side, since it is hydraulic drive is it possible to hook a hydraulic blower or tiller to this tractor? It came with a deck and snow blade. The deck is 44" from what I can tell, on discharge chute on the side it is rounded and towards the back there is a circle outlet that looks like it would hook to a bagger or something? Is this a special kind of deck, all of the other ones I've seen have a straight edge on the discharge chute and I haven't seen another with the circle outlet tube on the deck? The snow plow is 38", it's a little bent on the bottom edges. There is no wear bar on the bottom edge, should it have one there? I was hoping that I could add one and if so is there somewhere I can get a universal wear bar that would work?
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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Get the P.I.N from the tag underneath the dashboard. That'll let us know what year it is and whether you have 1969-1970 attachment setup or the 1971-current snap-fast attachment system. And as always, we love to see pictures. It helps us help you and makes the forum more enjoyable.

There are snowblowers available for this tractor. Whether it's the earlier or current attachment setup, snowcasters are belt driven from the same PTO that operates the mower deck. Understandably, since snap-fast system has been around much longer, used casters are more widely available for this.

Hydra-tillers, hydra-vacs, hydra-chipper/shreaders, log splitters, etc are available for this tractor. Unless already equipped, you'll need a Hydraulic PTO, and sleeve hitch or 3 point.

It's not a bad idea to change the hydraulic oil on a newly acquired machine. Drain from the low pressure hose feeding the cooler and refill with Shell Rotella 15w40. Degrease the tractor and check it for leaks before, during, and after usage for the first few weeks. Once you've become comforatble with this tractor, inspections can be made less frequently.

Look the transaxle over for signs of previous repairs; Specifically at the bottom. Carrier bolt breakage and case punctures on earlier models is the most common damage these tractors face. This happens moreso on 400 series, but can happen on 200's. Cracks where the transaxle attaches to the frame, and where the engine bolts to the frame(on pre-rubber mounted engines) are a possibility on earlier models.

A plow is pretty general piece of equipment and easy to modify. If you feel it needs a wear bar then go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As much as I wanted to work on the tractor tonight I didn't have time to find help for getting it out of the truck. It's all covered up so I didn't get a look at the serial number on it yet. Hopefully I can get it tomorrow. In the mean time I did get a few pictures of the attachments that I pulled into the garage last night. The picture of the deck shows the side chute that I described earlier, does anybody have any information on this deck? As for the snow blade, I did find that the blade itself seems to be slightly bent where it's welded onto the attachment arm, it must have been rammed into something at one time or another. I think it should still be functional for now. It is a 38" blade. Some of the other ones I've seen have the trip springs on the back, this one doesn't have them. Does anybody know is this an early blade that doesn't have them or didn't the 38" blades have the springs? Like I said hopefully tomorrow I'll have a picture of the tractor itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
CM, thanks for the detailed writeup earlier. I'll probably change the hydraulic oil sometime this week when I get a chance and check out the other things that you mentioned. Is there any good place to look for these attachments such as the snowcasters and tillers for sale?
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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Pennsylvania is a double-edged sword for Case and Ingersoll. On the one hand, parts are much more scarce when compared to the midwest and certain parts of Canada. On the bright side, we're nestled in the area where these tractors and attachments sell for much less, relatively, than other areas. I know people in SE and central PA who've snatched up plows and decks for a pittance. My father bought a snowcaster for $5 at an auction, and most recently, a member on this forum bought from the York area a complete, non running 444 with deck, 3 point, rear hydro PTO, and tiller all for less than a car payment; and now is in the process of a very in-depth restoration.

Your best bet is to scour CL and eBlow. I do it twice a day, at least. Make friends with your local lawn equipment dealers, ask if there are any "Case GT" people in the area. Go to junkyards and look around. Some just want a good tractor and shun the lifestyle attached to it... But most here find that embracing the social aspect that comes with these stout machines makes repairs easier, parts/attachment location, and the chances for "deals" more likely.

Whereabouts in Pa are you? Nice to find another person in this state wised up.
 

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Nice to find another person in this state wised up.

There's a few of us!

Classic's correct, knowing people in your area is great, it allows everyone to broaden their search and secure radius. Or even swap parts without paying shipping or auction fees.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I still haven't been able to get to the tractor yet. I started building a ramp last night to get it out of the truck but the weather wasn't cooperating, hopefully tonight it will work out better. If I remember right it seemed like the front end sat slightly crooked, one side was lower than the other when looking at it from the front. It may have just been the tire pressure but will have to check this out, maybe something is bent up. Located in very western part of the state along the OH line, are there any other members out this way? Where are you guys at in PA?
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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Tire pressure is the easy answer. Air them up and see how she sits. If it's still an issue then front axle or spindles are the next most likely culprit.

I'm situated halfway between Harrisburg and Allentown. I'd think parts and attachments would be a little easier pickins on your side of the state.
 

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Eastern Side, near philadelphia.
That plow looks like a one-off. Looks like its mounted to a mower mule.
I'd be gentle about pushing big drifts with it. And as you said, with no trip springs it could bust some ribs so be careful
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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CL may have some generic plows floating around. May be able to find a heavy duty blade with trip springs for a nice price. Then it's just a matter fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's what I kind of thought about the plow too, I had never seen another Case plow like it. What about the deck, do you guys think somebody cut the curved end on the chute on the side for some reason or did they make a deck like this? I haven't been able to find another one like this either.

I got the tractor inside tonight. The ID number on the tractor is 9647236, does this let you know what year it is somehow?. I don't think anything is bent on it, the right rear and left front tires were completely flat, I filled them up with the compressor but they were flat again in a matter of minutes so I might have to get some tubes for now. To see if the tractor would sit straight with the back tires level I threw a small jack under the axle in the back and leveled it up, it looked pretty good and straight after doing that. I'll probably be thinking about changing the tires and will probably have more questions about that soon, I like the look of the rear AG tires but I'm not sure how practical they would be for me.

When quickly looking over the tractor I did notice that the exhaust pipe seems to be bent and where it's bolted onto the engine it's loose. I'm guessing the exhaust gasket broke and fell apart at some point and it got loose. This concerns me a little because I'm not sure how long it had been like this and I have been told in the past a leak here could cause a burnt exhaust valve. I'll have to check into that and see if I can somehow check to see if the valves are OK. Another thing with this exhaust is that it is just hanging there from where it's attached to the engine, there's a bracket towards the end but it's not attached to anything at all. Does anybody have a picture of what this should be bolted to and what it should look like? I saw a reproduction muffer exactly like this one on eBlue the other day for around $90. I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea to pick one up (if this is in fact the correct muffler for this year tractor, can anybody verify this?), because besides being bent this one seems pretty loud when it was running. I have some pictures to attach. Let me know what you guys think and if you notice anything else out of the ordinary with it.
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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For a nearly 40 year old unrestored tractor it looks very well kept. The correct muffler is slightly different than the one you have... but it makes no difference fitment wise. The tab you mentioned is supposed to reach downward and fasten to the bolt that holds the fan shroud. It may have been modified to work with another bolt on the engine.

You have a 1971 Case 220. It has the later style snap fast deck and plow attachment system, but used the early PTO engagement knob, and the engine is bolted directly to the frame. If I am correct, 1973 was the first year Case used rubber-mounted isolator plates. You will want to check for cracks in the frame where the engine bolts up.

The achilles heel of Kohler K's and Magnums are carbon buildup in the head and on the valve seats. It's common practice to pull the head every few seasons, depending on usage, and wire brush the piston, valve seats, head - as well as check the cylinder for a wear lip and the valve seats for pitting. Sometimes valve lapping is needed. In extreme cases valve and seat replacement is required. You will definitely want to replace the exhaust gasket before running anytime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you know if the correct muffler/exhaust pipe is still available to buy somewhere?

I'll check out the frame tonight for cracks, I didn't have much time last night. Is it typically pretty easy to see the cracks if there are any or does the engine need pulled to check?

I had bought this tractor to clear snow and to use, but to fix up also along the way. I didn't realize that it was as old as you say it is. In your opinion would it be worth restoring this tractor at some point?
 

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I must say that thing looks great. For the seat to survive like that, great respect was given to it. If you are plowing, be careful the vinyl gets brittle in the cold. Definitley stored inside too. Never seen a deck like that, bet he had a Peco Vac at some point. Nice looking machine. :fing02:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the compliments on it guys. CM, after you said it was a '71 model I found a writeup on the internet with pictures of somebody who restored this exact year/model tractor and it looked great. I don't think it would take much to make this one look the same, some cleaning, new paint, decals and tires to start. I could tell it was well taken care of from the start and that's why I decided to buy it without knowing a whole lot about it. It also came with a large service manual binder and receipts for parts over the years, so I should have no problem at all addressing any problems with it.

First things first, I will try to replace the exhaust gasket tonight, I'm not sure how easily the bolts holding this on will come out.
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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I can't recall the code offhand, but your 44" mower deck chute isn't cut. Lil Old 220 has a 48" H46 deck and his chute is the same way. I'd rather if the chute on my 222 were like yours. It's easy to skin tree trunks on wooded lots with a heavy gauge straight chute.

The hookup coming off of the rear of the chute does look like a hydrabagger hookup. Perhaps yours had one at one time or this deck was a replacement and taken from a tractor which had one.

Your proper muffler hasn't been in production for quite some time. I've seen used ones in good condition sell for $150, not including shipping, on eBlow. If yours is good, run with it. And if it isn't; I'd buy one of the earlier style repops they've just started selling unless I was dead set on a 100 point perfect restoration.
 

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Lil Old 220 has a 48" H46 deck and his chute is the same way
And I'll reiterate, I think it is superior. A few times I've clipped a post, picnic table or swingset. The curved nature just nudges the deck by torquing the mule.
This is much better than getting the deck hung up on something and it trying to rip your deck off.:biglaugh:

And this is coming from one of the early 80's ones with the straight elongated baffle. (like a fan)
 

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Congratulations on your new to you Case 220 SnowTractor!!!! Looks as though, as others have mentioned, you have a very solid machine which was well taken care of. Looks as though it's all there as well. I've not yet seen a PTO engagement knob like you have and I learn something new every day. Great tractor you have there!!!
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I'll probably be thinking about changing the tires and will probably have more questions about that soon, I like the look of the rear AG tires but I'm not sure how practical they would be for me.
Regarding AG tires. I guess it would depend on what you plan on using your tractor for the most. If it's primary use is for moving snow as you have said then AG tires may not be your best choice. The guys here know how well I like tire chains so I won't go down that road or even promote chains. But if that is what you want [chains] then you may want to think about rear weights be it wheel weights or some sort of rear weight bracket with some sort of weights like suitcase weights etc.???? I'm a big AG tire user but my tractors are warm weather tractors and I need the traction in the dirt verses the snow.

If you haven't already you really need to visit the Ingersoll website now that you know the Serial Number (SN) and download the Illustrated Parts Manual for your tractor model and SN. Your next item should be an Owner's Manual (OM) - you can get that from Brian Hildreth. If you've spent any amount of time on the Case forum here then I'm sure you're aware of the oil changing procedures and what type of oil to use and where to drain it and your OM will tell you the what, where, when, and hows on that issue. One of the first tasks you should perform is service your tractor by change ALL the fluids in your new to you tractor - gas, crankcase oil, transaxle oil, and hydraulic oil before you run it for any length of time. I know how tempting it can be to just jump on board and pilot your new tractor out and about but you could cause damage if the tractor has sat for any length of time and or the PO has the wrong fluids in the tractor. Always best to start from a clean slate. That way you know your new tractor is being well taken care of.

Click on the banner in my signature area below to take you to the Ingersoll website.
 
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