Kish JD 318/420/430
Sounds like heat damage to bearings and journals, I would not run it unless your plan on a re-power for your tractor.
Ive rebuilt a few of these, and ive never needed to replace a crank. Not to say you won't.. but they hold up vary well. Cams also. LOTS of rebuild parts out there. Heck, you can even get hotter cams for them.I can pick up a good rebuild kit for about $250. This isn’t including a camshaft or crankshaft. Anyone know where I can find these items? About how often are the camshaft and crankshaft damaged when the rod bearings start to go?
I think I’m going to revisit the timing issue first. After I did the full ignition tune up I was cruising around the property pulling my kids in a wagon for about two hours with no issues. Just doesn’t make sense. Of course there wasn’t any heavy load on the engine. I started getting these issues when running the mower. Belt too tight maybe. 🤷🏻♂️Its your timing. Ir your points are bad. My 220 did this after I adjusted my points with the wrong gap. sometimes they are tricky to get right. My would start having a slight knocking sound sounded like a old car going up a hill with cheap gas.
There's no pinging noise. Definitely a clattering noise. It's like engine knocking but not loud. Best I can describe it:does it sound like its pinging? kinda a knocking clatter. There is a whole bunch of youtube vids on this. i always use the mark on the flywheel. the gap is supposed to be .10 there is a range though the kohler website has all of the specs. coil and condenser could be bad also. one part at a time. my neighbors wheel horse had the same issue the points on his where literally worn into each other.
Well I seem to have misplaced my feeler gage. Didn't have time to look for it lastnight, so I'll hunt for it tonight.T is top dead center. There is a line on the case and the flywheel line those up. Set the points then to .20 this will get you where need. From what your describing is pinging been there done that last year it was weird it would start happing to me same place when mowing for 15min or so. There is a procedure to get them dead on with a timing light there is a whole bunch of YouTube vids on setting them with a light or without. The trick is when tightening them try to get them not to move.
Yeah, I’m going to have to keep some parts in inventory. On the plus side, the parts are rather inexpensive. With all new ground wires, power wires, fuses etc... NOTHING should be shorting out unless I’m an idiot and cross wires somewheres.Well until the points burn or the condensor goes bad or the coil opens or shorts!
Oohhhh.... that’s was the manual meant by 1/8” gap between coils. I was looking around scratching my head saying “I don’t see a coil anywhere “. I just tightened it until the belt had a little give, about 1/2” like a vehicle drive belt.Glad to hear shes running good! Just a simple answer to one thing you asked.. the drive belt tention for the deck. The spec is to tighten the adjustment till there is a spring wire dia of space between the coils. This is assuming that the spring is good, and stock..
I think you jinxed me. Was running fine up until this past weekend. No spark at all.Yeah, I’m going to have to keep some parts in inventory. On the plus side, the parts are rather inexpensive. With all new ground wires, power wires, fuses etc... NOTHING should be shorting out unless I’m an idiot and cross wires somewheres.