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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Sounds like heat damage to bearings and journals, I would not run it unless your plan on a re-power for your tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I can pick up a good rebuild kit for about $250. This isn’t including a camshaft or crankshaft. Anyone know where I can find these items? About how often are the camshaft and crankshaft damaged when the rod bearings start to go?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sounds like heat damage to bearings and journals, I would not run it unless your plan on a re-power for your tractor.
I did intent to do a rebuild, however I was hoping to at least get the garden bed tilled in and the lawn cut for the duration of summer.
 

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I can pick up a good rebuild kit for about $250. This isn’t including a camshaft or crankshaft. Anyone know where I can find these items? About how often are the camshaft and crankshaft damaged when the rod bearings start to go?
Ive rebuilt a few of these, and ive never needed to replace a crank. Not to say you won't.. but they hold up vary well. Cams also. LOTS of rebuild parts out there. Heck, you can even get hotter cams for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well I put all my work in this weekend. After I was able to take all the squeak out of the shrouds, the rod bearing is definitely knocking. It’ll run at higher rpm a little quieter, but if I suddenly hit a bump or a sudden load gets put on the engine it throws the rod out of wack.
 

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Its your timing. Ir your points are bad. My 220 did this after I adjusted my points with the wrong gap. sometimes they are tricky to get right. My would start having a slight knocking sound sounded like a old car going up a hill with cheap gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Its your timing. Ir your points are bad. My 220 did this after I adjusted my points with the wrong gap. sometimes they are tricky to get right. My would start having a slight knocking sound sounded like a old car going up a hill with cheap gas.
I think I’m going to revisit the timing issue first. After I did the full ignition tune up I was cruising around the property pulling my kids in a wagon for about two hours with no issues. Just doesn’t make sense. Of course there wasn’t any heavy load on the engine. I started getting these issues when running the mower. Belt too tight maybe. 🤷🏻‍♂️

It’s just strange. My points gap closed up on me before, the first time but it was noticeable as soon as I started it. Now it starts and runs great until it’s been running too long. About 20 minutes.

I need to find a step by step guide on setting the timing. There’s got to be more to it than setting the points at TDC right?

Also, what does it mean when white smoke is coming out of the exhaust and breather valve?

EDIT: I did just recently replace the governor spring with a factory Kohler spring. The tension is quite a bit heavier than the old one. Not sure if this would create any issues. It’s the correct part number.
 

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does it sound like its pinging? kinda a knocking clatter. There is a whole bunch of youtube vids on this. i always use the mark on the flywheel. the gap is supposed to be .10 there is a range though the kohler website has all of the specs. coil and condenser could be bad also. one part at a time. my neighbors wheel horse had the same issue the points on his where literally worn into each other.
 

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you will normally have a little bit of vapor coming from the breather port but not alot. if there is alot it could be bad ring or head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
does it sound like its pinging? kinda a knocking clatter. There is a whole bunch of youtube vids on this. i always use the mark on the flywheel. the gap is supposed to be .10 there is a range though the kohler website has all of the specs. coil and condenser could be bad also. one part at a time. my neighbors wheel horse had the same issue the points on his where literally worn into each other.
There's no pinging noise. Definitely a clattering noise. It's like engine knocking but not loud. Best I can describe it:

After 20 minutes of running fine,

Runs like crap, clanking noise, smooths out, runs like crap clanking noise, smooths out... etc.

After re-reading the service manual, I may have set the timing wrong, though I can't confirm until I get home (because I don't remember). I turned the flywheel to T then set the points to .020". Manual states to turn flywheel to S and continue turning clockwise until points fully open then set points gap to .020". Maybe off by a bit but I don't see how this would effect performance after running under load after 20 minutes. I would think timing being off would be apparent immediately after starting.
 

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T is top dead center. There is a line on the case and the flywheel line those up. Set the points then to .20 this will get you where need. From what your describing is pinging been there done that last year it was weird it would start happing to me same place when mowing for 15min or so. There is a procedure to get them dead on with a timing light there is a whole bunch of YouTube vids on setting them with a light or without. The trick is when tightening them try to get them not to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well it’s gapped right.
T is top dead center. There is a line on the case and the flywheel line those up. Set the points then to .20 this will get you where need. From what your describing is pinging been there done that last year it was weird it would start happing to me same place when mowing for 15min or so. There is a procedure to get them dead on with a timing light there is a whole bunch of YouTube vids on setting them with a light or without. The trick is when tightening them try to get them not to move.
Well I seem to have misplaced my feeler gage. Didn't have time to look for it lastnight, so I'll hunt for it tonight.

Maybe related, maybe not:

How freely are mowing blades supposed to turn by hand when the accessory drive is disengaged, I.e. when the mower is removed from the garden tractor?

I rebuilt the mower, three bladed mower, and all but the center blade spun rather freely. They're hard to turn by hand and I'm suspecting they might be creating too much drag/load. Thinking of backing the spindle bolts off a touch. Also, how tight to yall keep the drive belt to the deck? Mine has a fancy hand crank and I just tightened it until it was snug, kind of like the drive belt on your vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Not really sure what I did to fix it but I spent about 2 1/2 hours tilling my garden bed and it didn’t have any issues.

What I did:

Replaced the condeser
Replaced the ignition coil
Replaced the points
Readjusted the valves
Rewired the electrical

All of these parts/labor aside from the electrical wiring were new, or I had done them before so I’m not sure which one was bad. I was getting a rather weak spark before so I just redid everything.

Everything was ordered new off Amazon. I decided to go with points directly from Kohler this time. They seem like they’re higher quality than the ones I got.

My spark is a lot stronger now and I wasn’t losing any power except when I hit some old tree roots. Garden bed was never tilled that deep before so I was hitting a lot of big rocks and roots.

I was able to reclaim another 120 square feet or so of lost garden as well. So I’m happy. Hopefully this issue doesn’t come up again and it’s been fixed permanently.

Rototilling I would imagine puts a lot more load on the engine than mowing so everything looks good so far.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Well until the points burn or the condensor goes bad or the coil opens or shorts! :devilish:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well until the points burn or the condensor goes bad or the coil opens or shorts! :devilish:
Yeah, I’m going to have to keep some parts in inventory. On the plus side, the parts are rather inexpensive. With all new ground wires, power wires, fuses etc... NOTHING should be shorting out unless I’m an idiot and cross wires somewheres.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Also, it hasn’t been burning any oil and there’s no nasty exhaust so I’m going to put a rebuild on the back burner for now. When I pulled the head to resurface and replace the head gasket, everything looked dry and clean... aside from the normal carbon build up. After i finish up the garden tomorrow, I’m going to hook the deck back up and mow. She’ll have about 5 hours of work ahead of her tomorrow. I’ll know for sure by then.
 

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Glad to hear shes running good! Just a simple answer to one thing you asked.. the drive belt tention for the deck. The spec is to tighten the adjustment till there is a spring wire dia of space between the coils. This is assuming that the spring is good, and stock..
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Glad to hear shes running good! Just a simple answer to one thing you asked.. the drive belt tention for the deck. The spec is to tighten the adjustment till there is a spring wire dia of space between the coils. This is assuming that the spring is good, and stock..
Oohhhh.... that’s was the manual meant by 1/8” gap between coils. I was looking around scratching my head saying “I don’t see a coil anywhere “. I just tightened it until the belt had a little give, about 1/2” like a vehicle drive belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yeah, I’m going to have to keep some parts in inventory. On the plus side, the parts are rather inexpensive. With all new ground wires, power wires, fuses etc... NOTHING should be shorting out unless I’m an idiot and cross wires somewheres.
I think you jinxed me. Was running fine up until this past weekend. No spark at all.

Everything is new except the ignition switch (ignition key) and the big aluminum block thing. Think it’s a regulator? Which is just supposed to charge the battery as far as I know. There is a safety switch that’s also questionable. Don’t think it worked before though because I was able to start it with the accessory drive on. Anyway to bypass this to see if it’s the issue?

It cranks fine and I swapped out the coil, condenser, wire and plug with some spare parts. Just not getting a spark. Don’t think there’s any power going to the coil. Because this comes directly from the ignition switch, I think it may be that.
 
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