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Discussion Starter #1
New to me Case 210 I think is overheating.

After doing a tune up and working out some bugs it’s running. Has lots of power it seems and is mowing fine up until about 20 minutes. I think it might be overheating.

After about 20 minutes of mowing is starts losing power. After letting it sit for a while it’s fine again. I removed the gas cap thinking it was a vacuum issue and that doesn’t seem to be the case. When the issue does come up it’s like there’s only two throttle speeds, idle and just a little bit faster. It runs roughly when the issue creeps in as well.

I haven’t taken the shroud/grass shield off yet to check for clogs. Air moving through the shroud is how these are cooled correct? I know the manual says the fuel mixture might need adjusting as well, but it’s running pretty clean how I’ve got it set now. Any other causes for loss of power after running under load for a while?

Engine is a kohler 241 I believe. Not sure if it’s been rebuilt yet.
 

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After cleaning the engine (removing shrowds), I would check temperature of the engine (IR temp gun available at HF). Then check valves they might need and adjustment and the heads cleaned of carbon build up. Then it's time to check oil system, especially the pan, pickup and pump. Depending on style of oil system (splash versus pressure). Plus with it being old you might need to run a 10W-40 or 40 grade oil. Have you changed the gap on the points or replaced the condensor which could be breaking down as the engine heats up. Look at Kirk's transducer system as a possible replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After cleaning the engine (removing shrowds), I would check temperature of the engine (IR temp gun available at HF). Then check valves they might need and adjustment and the heads cleaned of carbon build up. Then it's time to check oil system, especially the pan, pickup and pump. Depending on style of oil system (splash versus pressure). Plus with it being old you might need to run a 10W-40 or 40 grade oil. Have you changed the gap on the points or replaced the condensor which could be breaking down as the engine heats up. Look at Kirk's transducer system as a possible replacement.
I believe the oil is a splash system. Currently running Rotella straight 30.

I pulled the shrouds off. Completely clean. I then decided to pull the head off because it was right there.

Some observations, these are studs/nuts. Half of them came off with little to no effort. I know the torque spec is only 25-30ft lbs but these seemed pretty light. The head itself is cast aluminum? It’s a tad warped Closest to the carburetor/valve cover side. I thought I was getting blow by from the valve breather, but it might have been from the head. This area is also where the bolts were pretty loose.

Overall the inside of the combustion chamber is pretty clean. Someone must have been in there recently. The cylinder wall was clean, no gouges. I know it’s not scientific but I tried putting a .001” feeler between the piston ring and cylinder wall to check for wear/slop. I couldn’t squeeze it through. It’s not a perfect method but it’s all I have currently. I’m headed to Lowe’s to pick up some wiring so I’ll look for an IR gun. I’m also going to pick up a sheet of sand paper to lap this cylinder head flat again.

Also I’d like to replace these head studs with grade 8 bolts. Would this be an issue?
 

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They probably are grade 8s ...just be careful that they are so tough that you do not strip the hole by over tightening....I put a grapite compound anti seize on them...it helps in the future if you ever have to take them out again
 

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A slight mill on that head will flatten it out some, and no big worry on that. Those K's have pleanty of room to cut the head before it becomes a issue. As for the running? Did you replace the points?? Maybe you have the timing wrong? Might be a coil going also. Those engines are tough on coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A slight mill on that head will flatten it out some, and no big worry on that. Those K's have pleanty of room to cut the head before it becomes a issue. As for the running? Did you replace the points?? Maybe you have the timing wrong? Might be a coil going also. Those engines are tough on coils.
Yes I did a whole tune up with new parts. New points, gapped appropriately, new ignition coil, condenser, spark plug/wire valve adjust, governor arm re-adjust, factory governor arm spring, new carb/adjusted. Currently making a new set of wires.

The new ignition coil did fail on me prematurely, about two days ago, so I swapped the older one back in (doesn't really look THAT old). This problem with suddenly losing power after an extended period was still an issue at the time however.

The tractor runs strong, maybe too fast? I don't have a tach to check rpms seems to run at higher rpm.

I brought the head to work with me. Going to resurface it. Also I'm going to try running some 5w-40.
 

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I'd suggest, in this order, you use diesel 15w-40, run like half throttle, not full throttle, just to avoid the possibility of too high RPM, and adjust the carb a little rich (check your spark plug) and see if it still runs hot/lose power when hot.

But before you do that, here's another thing that might happen. Perhaps your engine is actually fine. The pump and motor though, not. Case GTs have a hydraulic motor. The hydraulic pump and/or motor get worn out over time, and then the hydraulic oil gets hot it will be more fluid, going through the pump and/or motor without turning them as strongly as when oil is cold. If you notice loss of power to movement, this is the problem. Loss in engine power will be felt a lot more on anything running off the front PTO, like mowing power, or snow casting.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'd suggest, in this order, you use diesel 15w-40, run like half throttle, not full throttle, just to avoid the possibility of too high RPM, and adjust the carb a little rich (check your spark plug) and see if it still runs hot/lose power when hot.

But before you do that, here's another thing that might happen. Perhaps your engine is actually fine. The pump and motor though, not. Case GTs have a hydraulic motor. The hydraulic pump and/or motor get worn out over time, and then the hydraulic oil gets hot it will be more fluid, going through the pump and/or motor without turning them as strongly as when oil is cold. If you notice loss of power to movement, this is the problem. Loss in engine power will be felt a lot more on anything running off the front PTO, like mowing power, or snow casting.
Alright I'll give it a shot. What am I looking for when I check my sparkplug too rich or too lean?

This Case is all belt driven. There's no hydraulics.
 

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Do a google search for rich lean spark plug to see pics. Dry and gray looking spark plug = lean; wet, shiny spark plug = rich.

Ah, you got the 210, no hydriv, ok, then the hydraulic motor/pump isn't a problem, as you don't have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Do a google search for rich lean spark plug to see pics. Dry and gray looking spark plug = lean; wet, shiny spark plug = rich.

Ah, you got the 210, no hydriv, ok, then the hydraulic motor/pump isn't a problem, as you don't have them.
This is what it currently looks like. I'm not the best at reading plugs but it looks normal to maybe a little dry?

2454377
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I resurfaced the head at work. It was about .012” flatness in the worst spot. Right above the carburetor. It’s now about .0005”. There was a lot of soot deposited around the gasket mating surface, on the exterior. There were deep impressions in the head from the steel gasket. My guess is this was not torqued to spec at some point in its life.

The only thing I can chalk this up to is a warped head for now. Losing compression when at operating temp. I’m going to finishing building all the wiring and also go with heavier weight oil. I’ll run it for 20 minutes and check the temp with an IR gun.

Will need to wait for the weather to clear up so I’ll update when I have everything back together. We’re supposed to get snow tonight if you can believe it.
 

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The lean running could be explained by this maybe, sucked air through the crack? Hopefully this was it!
 

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Looks like you are working through some tests.. Im wondering about engine speed being you did governor work. Did you adjust the governer arm after you put it back together? There is a adjustment for it. Also adjusting the point gap is just a starting point for adjusting the timing. You ight need to tweek that a little. Tons of vids, and manuals out there on Kohlor K adjustments to give info on getting the timing spot on. ..

OK, so now another tack.. You say its getting hot... could it be starving for fuel?? I know you checked the cap vent, but maybe the fuel pump is getting weak at temp, or maybe a fuel line closetng up some when hot. These engines are normaly vary forgiving, and can be pretty messed up before they start running bad.. I think we are just overlooking somthing look right at us
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Looks like you are working through some tests.. Im wondering about engine speed being you did governor work. Did you adjust the governer arm after you put it back together? There is a adjustment for it. Also adjusting the point gap is just a starting point for adjusting the timing. You ight need to tweek that a little. Tons of vids, and manuals out there on Kohlor K adjustments to give info on getting the timing spot on. ..

OK, so now another tack.. You say its getting hot... could it be starving for fuel?? I know you checked the cap vent, but maybe the fuel pump is getting weak at temp, or maybe a fuel line closetng up some when hot. These engines are normaly vary forgiving, and can be pretty messed up before they start running bad.. I think we are just overlooking somthing look right at us
I did perform the static arm adjustment with the governor after putting the throttle linkage all back together. I've checked the points twice. A few weeks ago when starting the tune up the points had 're-closed' on me because I didn't tighten the adjuster screw enough. I'll check it out again and make sure it's still good. When I was having issues with the points it was noticeable right when starting the engine. The engine seems to start and run fine until about 20minutes in.

The timing is something I haven't looked at yet simply because I've never done it before. I know that when the mark on the flywheel is at TDC, the piston and the points are the same. I'm not sure what else goes into adjusting that but I will look into it. I'd think that if the timing was off, I wouldn't have such a strong throttle? Also it doesn’t misfire or backfire.

So what I've done with the fuel is a; new carb, new fuel lines and hose clamps. The only addition I've added is a fuel filter because it didn't have one on there before. It was just a straight line from the tank to the pump. The pump is mechanical, driven by the motor. When pulling the outlet line and turning the engine fuel comes out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright I got everything mostly back together. Enough to run it and cut some more grass.

Seems the issue is still here. I only reinstalled the head with a new gasket/bolts and torqued to spec and in the correct sequence. It seemed to be doing fine while mowing in 2nd gear. When I switched to 3rd it seemed to not like it very much. I’ve been mowing in 3rd. I wonder if it’s just too much load? I temped the engine with an IR temp gun. Read “around” 350f - 380f on the cylinder head.

I have not yet switched the oil or electric, but I don’t think the ignition is really the issue here unless the coil is overheating.
 

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OK.. so here is a thought.. I had this happen with my 222. It would run great, then die mowing after about a half hour. I decided to try it without the hood on to see if it had the problem. It didnt do it any more.. So whatever it was was heat soaking with the hood on. Anyway... after changing a butt load of parts, I found out that the rubber main fuse holder was cracked. When the rubber case was cool, it was stiff and held the contacts together. When it heated up, the rubber got soft, and the crack in the contacts opened up. It was the strangest thing! So I cut it out, replaced it with a new holder with a blade fuse, and never had the issue after.. Its a long shot.. but you never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I drained the oil to put the heavier weight oil in. Came out pretty glittery. Lots of fine metal powder in the oil. This oil is new straight 30 I just put in. Thinking it finally just needs a rebuild after 40 years.
 
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