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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Yeah, I saw what happened to Larry in the Ford thread.
I think he had his machine back up and runnin quicker than I did.
I was out for about 3 days as I brought the hub into work to use the CNC mill.
Luckily it was a slow Friday and I got the hub milled and got off early to get home and fix it.


I managed to limp it back to the shop by adding weight to the left side of the bucket. About 200lbs and it tipped back on 3 wheels. Driving it is the only way to move it. It has no way to disconnect the drive wheels, no freewheel, no neutral etc. Flat towing it is not advised.

Land vehicle Vehicle Construction equipment Tree Soil


Vehicle Construction equipment Tree Grass Soil


There was no way I was getting the axle out to weld it on the bench.
If it was a front axle I probably would have removed it, but the rears require almost complete disassembly of the machine.
I opted to block it up, align the hub as best I could, soaked the axle tube with a wet rag and welded slow, starting with tacks, checking trueness, then givin' er all she got.
I only have a 120v mig, but it runs off a 20 amp breaker.
I figure if it breaks again I will just do the same thing, but with a bigger welder.

Rust Wood


I was a bit worried about the wheel bearings and seals with all the heat (that's what the rag was for), but again, what do I have to lose?
If I cooked them then I will have to take the whole thing apart anyways, which is what I want to avoid at the moment.

Well, this is one thing I really didn't anticipate. Never thought it would break like that! But at least it was an easy fix...for now...
 
Well Done GB, glad to see you back up and running so quickly.:thThumbsU
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Well Done GB, glad to see you back up and running so quickly.:thThumbsU
Thanks Larry.
I'm rather impressed with myself too :D
Both in how quick I got it done and how well it worked out.
No wobble noticeable with the wheel on!

Nice job on your fix too, btw.
Sure pays to have a parts machine (or two) around, eh?!

Now if I could only find a skidsteer for parts...
 
Thanks Larry.
I'm rather impressed with myself too :D
Both in how quick I got it done and how well it worked out.
No wobble noticeable with the wheel on!

Nice job on your fix too, btw.
Sure pays to have a parts machine (or two) around, eh?!

Now if I could only find a skidsteer for parts...
I figured you'd be looking for a skidsteer wrecking yard but you got it back together under your own steam.:fing32::fing32:
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
The thought never even crossed my mind, to be honest.
If there was a skidsteer wrecker around here they would probably want just as much for an axle as I paid for the whole machine.

This is where it pays to be a machinist!
I wasn't worried.
I actually took it pretty well when the wheel popped off. I don't think I even uttered any bad words!
I just sighed, shook my head, got up and went for an adult beverage.:trink21:
Between my own equipment in my shop and the stuff I have access to at work I can make just about anything.

The axles are a pretty straightforward part.
I already had one front one apart to change a key so I know what it looks like. (didn't get ant pics, sorry)

I figured, at worst, I would make a new axle from scratch on the lathe.
The hub is also pretty simple. They were originally welded together.

Auto part Axle part Technical drawing Drawing Automotive engine part
 
I have a working 1818 with 16hp teh in it im about to sell. needs a little TLC like new belts and throttle cable replaced.no leaks. but has Brand new tires on it (replaced in Jan 19). and the bucket on it was professionally widened to 5ft . i do not have the roll cage for it. but if anyone is interested shoot me a line. dematrix274@gmail.com
 
I've never put one on a skid steer, but did put one on a Cub Cadet last Spring. Actually pretty simple, remove 3 bolts, then pull off the crankshaft. Mine came off fairly easy, with a little jiggling.

New one went back on pretty easy, but, spring tension was about half of what it needed to be. Ran the tension nuts down quite a bit, and you need to set it at the proper distance with a feeler gauge. IIRC, about .021. I checked it 3 places around, in between the mounting bolts. Plugged it in, placed the wire in the loop to keep it in place,and was good to go. Actually, a lot easier than I expected.

If you can find the OEM part number, you may want to check ebay. I found a NOS one at a dealer, I'm thinking in Georgia, apparently getting rid of some NOS items. It was like $60 less than imported one's, and was made in U.S.A.
 
Nice!!
That looks way cleaner than mine.
I like the extra counterweights too. I plan to make some.
Looks like you had some sort of plexiglass back window?
I have also been thinking about some way of enclosing the back and sides, and making a roof for the front part that's open.

I mean, why have a roof if it doesn't keep you dry when it rains?

And thanks for the tip on the seatbelt.
It can be a bit of a bucking bronco at times, and rather tippy.
Did you ever have a axle break where it's weld on the rim plate?
 
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