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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

have a query...I have a 1950s Briggs 4 cycle off a mower, and the actual round "muffler body" rusted off years ago, leaving the threaded steel tube still screwed into the motor itself.

I've tried for a long time to loosen whats left of the muffler, but no luck. I've tried vice grip pliers, WD-40 by the gallon and leaving it for day or two, tapping it with a hammer, swearing at it, and throwing my tools down in disgust and slamming the garage door. But nothing helps.

Wondering if a hand held butane torch which uses the canisters would get it hot enough to budge? About 1300 degrees F is what they get to. Anyone here tried this? I guess the local garage could do it for me, but if a butane torch would provide enough heat I'd rather buy one for future use. Can buy a hand held butane torch here in New Zealand for about $50 including a couple of disposable canisters.

Thanks for any ideas.

Thanks for any advice.
 

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Try using a large pipe wrench for better leverage.
 

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Retired Super Moderator - Deceased September 2015
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Try what john posted. If you use heat, you have to heat the engine not the pipe. Heat will cause the pipe to swell bigger if you heat it. :fing32:
 

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i have the same problem as you with an 8 hp from the late 50s no butune will get it hot enough to budge whats left. mine is on petty good so bad it looks like it welded itself to the block. i too am searching for solutions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi all, its off!! Read on another forum to mix a small amount of ATF and brake fluid, and soak it on the offending muffler thread. Did this all day, and since I was bored I tried using the heat gun I have for stripping paint (nothing to lose right?)....left the heat gun on it for a few minutes, then got the stillsons and tried tightening it slightly to break the seal..it worked! Not sure what the "actual" reason it undid was, but I'm skeptical about the ATF/brake fluid combo..possibly the longer stillsons I have. The heat gun obviously didn't get it hot enough to glow, but certainly was smoking off the oil etc I have been using to soak it, and it was far too hot to touch.

Personally I reckon the longer stillsons instead of the vice lock pliers helped..but I have to wonder if the heat helped just a little??

Thanks for all replies!
 

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Hi all, its off!! Read on another forum to mix a small amount of ATF and brake fluid, and soak it on the offending muffler thread. Did this all day, and since I was bored I tried using the heat gun I have for stripping paint (nothing to lose right?)....left the heat gun on it for a few minutes, then got the stillsons and tried tightening it slightly to break the seal..it worked! Not sure what the "actual" reason it undid was, but I'm skeptical about the ATF/brake fluid combo..possibly the longer stillsons I have. The heat gun obviously didn't get it hot enough to glow, but certainly was smoking off the oil etc I have been using to soak it, and it was far too hot to touch.

Personally I reckon the longer stillsons instead of the vice lock pliers helped..but I have to wonder if the heat helped just a little??

Thanks for all replies!
Talk about lucky, I've never had luck like that, It came off with a wrench!
 

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Tractor Hoarder
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awesome you got it off might try that myself.
 

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Hi all, its off!! Read on another forum to mix a small amount of ATF and brake fluid, and soak it on the offending muffler thread. Did this all day, and since I was bored I tried using the heat gun I have for stripping paint (nothing to lose right?)....left the heat gun on it for a few minutes, then got the stillsons and tried tightening it slightly to break the seal..it worked! Not sure what the "actual" reason it undid was, but I'm skeptical about the ATF/brake fluid combo..possibly the longer stillsons I have. The heat gun obviously didn't get it hot enough to glow, but certainly was smoking off the oil etc I have been using to soak it, and it was far too hot to touch.

Personally I reckon the longer stillsons instead of the vice lock pliers helped..but I have to wonder if the heat helped just a little??

Thanks for all replies!
50-50 atf and acetone is supposed to be the best penetrating oil so I think your mix had a lot to do with getting it out. WD40 is pretty much useless as a penetrating oil.
 

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I keep a refillable aerosol can of ATF-Acetone on hand in the workshop; in my experience it's significantly better than PB Blaster or any of the others out there. I'm not saying it's a miracle worker, there are things out there that not type of liquid will loosen, but for most things it will seep deep into it and loosen them a bit. Just remember the key is SOAKING TIME, apply it a couple times and give it hours or even days to work deep into the threads!!
 

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I keep a refillable aerosol can of ATF-Acetone on hand in the workshop; in my experience it's significantly better than PB Blaster or any of the others out there. I'm not saying it's a miracle worker, there are things out there that not type of liquid will loosen, but for most things it will seep deep into it and loosen them a bit. Just remember the key is SOAKING TIME, apply it a couple times and give it hours or even days to work deep into the threads!!
Doe the ATF keep it thick enough to work from a pump style oil can? That's how I do the bulk fluid film/atf mix. Bulk fluid film is much more expensive than acetone so I want to try the acetone.
 
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