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Discussion Starter #1
Although I won't be doing this now since we are close to winter, I am interested in removing my hard sided cab next spring. After mowing with it on for the first time, I think I would prefer to take it off. Would like to know how difficult it is and what people of used for disconnecting the anti-freeze lines going to the heater? I'm thinking about using quick disconnects for the lines. Thoughts? Also, thinking about building a cart to hold it.

Thanks!
 

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yup, you can put disconnectes on the heater lines.

I found it MUCH easier and quicker and a one man job to just take it apart. I can do it in less than an hour. Reinstall about the same.

If you have a high enough ceiling (I didn't) you can easily install a block and tackle and just lift it off in one piece... again a one man job.

If you have helpers you can lift it off too, but it stores MUCH smaller in pieces. And when removed they are very unstable and parts can easily be bent, a jig to hold it is advised...

No way I want a cab for summer duties either!!! :trink40:


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Put my cab ( 2 guys) upside down on a dolly and 1 for the blower and then just rolled them away for the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Like this. You might need to remove your rear glass.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=181799
Thanks Tom! Couple of things: When you reconnect the heater hoses do you have any air in the lines? If so, how do you bleed them? You must lose quiet of bit of anti-freeze when you initially cut the lines even with the valve shut off?? Can you give me the website where you bought these and list what I need please?

I've looked under my tractor and I'm trying to decide how much I need to take off underneath the foot pans. I know that on each side there are mounting brackets, but I'm not exactly sure how much to remove. I certainly don't want to remove more than I have to.

Thanks again for the information!!
 

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You will need to drain and fill the coolant only once to install the dry breaks in the heater hoses. There is no special bleeding proceedure. Once installed and when there is no pressure in the cooling system, just disconnect the dry breaks like disconnecting an air hose fitting. Thats it! A dry break! No mess!
I bought them online from Murdocks Industrial. I will look up the numbers and post them soon.
Leave the lower mounts in place. Remove the bolt that goes through the foot/floor pan on each side and remove the two bolts on each side that are just under the doors. Thats it for the front! I will post pics of what bolts to remove soon. When I install the cab for winter I do a step by step with pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You will need to drain and fill the coolant only once to install the dry breaks in the heater hoses. There is no special bleeding proceedure. Once installed and when there is no pressure in the cooling system, just disconnect the dry breaks like disconnecting an air hose fitting. Thats it! A dry break! No mess!
I bought them online from Murdocks Industrial. I will look up the numbers and post them soon.
Leave the lower mounts in place. Remove the bolt that goes through the foot/floor pan on each side and remove the two bolts on each side that are just under the doors. Thats it for the front! I will post pics of what bolts to remove soon. When I install the cab for winter I do a step by step with pics.
You're a life save Tom!! I really appreciate your help with this and will wait for your posting of the part numbers for the quick disconnects. If possible, could you also give me the numbers for the brass connections that go directly into the hoses? So I will drain the cooling system entirely and then refill once I have the disconnects installed and that's pretty much it? And when you say "no pressure" in the system that would simply mean when the tractor is off I assume?

Thanks again Tom!
 

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I will list all the numbers.
Drain & fill once.
Engine off and cold.
Piece of cake!
 

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After you remove the bolts in the foot pans like tom stated you can leave one set of bolts on in the back of the cab you can rotate the cab back over and off the tractor on those bolts. Vice versa for putting it on. Works if you don't have a 3pt hitch
 
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