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HAMMAN
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Discussion Starter #1
I want to build a cab for our Jacobsen 1200 Super Chief. Does any one have a cab they could give me some measurements from? I can't take the cold anymore and I need to be able to get out of the wind while blowing the drives out next winter. I plan on making it out of 2X2 wood, plastic cardboard, and plexiglass. Thanks for any help. Roger
 

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I don't know if anyone is going to have specific measurements for your exact tractor, but luckily -- you don't need any. Just start by figuring out some mount points, and then start framing. 2x2's -- sure why not, use some thin plywood skin to give it torsional rigidity. You can find ingenious cab threads on here by folks using emt/electrical conduit, pvc pipe, copper tubing, bbq grill frames, plywood, road signs, fence posts, rebar, shower rods, even bedframes ;-) and also a fair number of outrageously professional creations.

It looks like you've been around here for a while, but if you need help with the search function (best bet is google site:mytractorforum.com keyword) just ask, but I'll recommend this thread as a great starting point:

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=15654&highlight=snowmower&page=2

Of course, keep us posted and try your best to include pics with every post. :)

/WW
 

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HAMMAN
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Discussion Starter #3
I have searched and found some posts and that is what has gotten me thinking of building. I was hoping that some one had a cab on one already and I could draw off of it. I already have a few of the measurements and the mount points figured out. I can refine it from there. I plan on using stamped "L" brackets that I purchased in bulk from a surplus store. I want to use Lexan and or plexiglass for the sides front and back. I figure that when I get the glass on it it will be strong and sturdy. Thanks for the help.
 

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Got it, yep it was worth checking whether someone had the exact details -- just didn't want the lack of any to discourage you from moving ahead. Your materials plan sounds great, and I'm already looking forward to seeing what you come up with on your beautiful looking (avatar) tractor. With the mount points figured out and the L-brackets in hand you should be able to get started -- that's probably the toughest part(s) right there.

/WW
 

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I was going to build one but ended up scoring a nice factory cab from a great member on this site. So I can show you some pics of how that is assembled from when I painted it last year if that would help.

Rear attachment to seat and fender pan.




Back installed on that.




Front frame and window. it just uses a big L bracket from side channel to floorboard bolts.




Roof is just curved sheet metal to connect the front and rear. There are 2 little gutter things over the doors but they're are pretty much just angle iron.




Windshield is hinged at the top so it can swing inward to open the hood.




Some flat stock straps to hold the canvas shape around the hood and away from your feet.


Doors are pretty much the same as a Jeep soft top but hinged at the rear.


Hope this helps with ideas for you.
 

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I was going to build one but ended up scoring a nice factory cab from a great member on this site. So I can show you some pics of how that is assembled from when I painted it last year if that would help.QUOTE]

I'm digging the rear tires!! Course,the cab's great too!:trink40:
 

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HAMMAN
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Discussion Starter #9
Hey, thanks guys it is really nice to have a group of guys to help you out when you need it. Great links and information. The link for the Popular Mechanics cab is what I was thinking of making. I also like the idea of PVC as a frame. I have access to PVC from a Plumbing Supplier at wholesale cost. I need to make it as light as possible for me to be able to take it off and put on by my self. This is a project I am starting as soon as I get the rest of the electricity in the garage. It woun't be ready until next winter. (unless I get rich hitting the lottery or I get a lot more energy) I think plexi glass will hold up well in the cold as well would Lexan but Lexan is more exspensive. We have a surplus / discout resale store about 40 miles from us and they some times have plexiglass in 4'X8' sheets for a reasonable price. They also have canvas and fake leather I can get reasonable for the area around the hood. I planed on fastening this with snaps on both the cab and hood. The cab itself will be held on by easy pull pins and clips. The doors will be full opening as I am not a small guy. I will make them so that I can take them off easily for early spring use where I may need a roof over me for what ever reason. In fact it will be a bit of a challenge getting in and out. (guess I wount be in a hurry to do either. Thanks again guys I really appreciate the info and help.
 

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I was going to build one but ended up scoring a nice factory cab from a great member on this site. So I can show you some pics of how that is assembled from when I painted it last year if that would help.QUOTE]

I'm digging the rear tires!! Course,the cab's great too!:trink40:
Thanks I like them too. Really like the front v61's as well. For ME it seems to be the perfect combo for my GT. Especially with all 4 filled with WWF.

Op instead of snaps on the hood you might think to do it like mine. a few grommets and a length of shock cord(bungie). It works fine around the hood.
 

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Hey, thanks guys it is really nice to have a group of guys to help you out when you need it. Great links and information. The link for the Popular Mechanics cab is what I was thinking of making. I also like the idea of PVC as a frame. I have access to PVC from a Plumbing Supplier at wholesale cost. I need to make it as light as possible for me to be able to take it off and put on by my self.
I made a "cab" (I use the term loosely) for my Snapper. It's really more of a shield for running the snowblower, but whatever... just another idea to throw in the mix for alternative materials.

I was going to make mine out of PVC, but felt stifled at only being able to use 45 and 90 degree angles. I ended up making mine out of 1" electrical conduit. A bash with a hammer conforms the ends for connection - I welded mine, but it could be drilled and connected with nuts/bolts. It is also considerably lighter than PVC - I take it off for mowing in the summer, and the whole structure literally weighs about 5 pounds. Conduit is really cheap too - about 10 cents a foot. I made "windows" out of sheet vinyl - fabric department at WalMart. It was something like $4/ sq. yard. I reinforced the edges of the vinyl by gluing on extra 1" strips of the same vinyl using PVC cement. I then punched holes in the edges with an awl, and connected the vinyl with zip-ties. Cost for the whole thing including conduit, vinyl, zip-ties, and even paint, was $29. Amazingly, it's going on it's 3rd season and still holding together, even with the original vinyl.

JayC
 

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