Thinking of building a few cabs for snowblowing this winter. One will go on my Agway GT-18, and the other on my Bolens 1050. Want to keep the cost down, way down, but don't want to make one with plywood. Thinking of a 1" square tube for the frame, and using clear vinyl sheeting (Similar to the plastic used on most modern LT cabs), from Lowe's. Says it is for covering broken windows,and enclosing porches, which makes me think it will hold up to snow/wind. Ideas? A 75 foot roll of this stuff is only 60 bucks so it may end up being just an interesting experiment. Did some googling and turns out most cabs consist of the same thickness (8 mil) sheeting that I was looking at.....thinking i'm gonna try it!
Is this a shrink wrap material? If it is some corner gussets and 1" insulation board would add some rigidity to the vinyl
and maybe even keep you warmer. Should be way quieter than flimsy sheet metal.
I would probably want a thicker vinyl than the stuff that's used for covering up windows. I've seen it used on UTV cab backs and removable doors, and it works pretty well, but it doesn't seem to stay clear for very long.
Most hobby stores have rolls of it in different thicknesses.
You will need something rigid like plate steel or plywood for the roof, and preferably on the doors.
The stuff i'm looking at is 8 mil thick....pretty darn heavy, and considering it is used on many other GT cabs it should do the trick. Would love lexan but dont have the $$$$
Instead of vinyl for the windshield, try to find something more solid, like Plexiglas. When snow and ice stick to the window, and you brush it off, the vinyl will get scratched up.
If you are using rebar what size and is it weldable? Also the deformations can be sharp and will ware in to what ever is wrapped around it. Thinking smooth bar would work better..
Right 1/2" smooth .68 lbs. per ft. Deformed #4 bar .668 lbs. per ft. Estimated and detailed the stuff for 30 years I think I known what is. If you are shaping out not one piece do not expect any square corners there are bending tolerances.
I think what everyone is trying to say is that re-bar is a poor choice of material to use to build a cab, and I agree.
Remember you need to attach this to your tractor and attach the sheeting or panels to it. As mentioned, bending the rebar won't be easy, and making most of the cab from one 12' piece doesn't seem possible unless the cab will be very small.
if your end goal is a cab to keep you out of the weather, yet not break the bank, I recommend using wood. You could rip 2x framing lumber (really 1.5")down to 1.5 x 1.5 and it would be plenty strong, not super heavy, easily paintable , easily workable, easy to modify and attach things to. Making a nice looking cab out of wood is very possible and cost effective.
Wow. I'm surprised. This isn't the response I was expecting. This forum is changing. I don't expect to build an entire cab out of 1 piece. However, 1 piece is more than enough to make one of the 2 frames for the side of the cab, as well as the doors. I just bought an industrial tubing bender for the rollcage on my truck, which has a die SPECIFICALLY for 1/2 to 3/4 rebar-shaped material. Sheeting will be attatched with a VERY capable welder. I don't see a problem. Also, wood rots, is a PITA to build an EASILY removabke cab with, and I much rather have a sturdy, lasting cab.
I'm interested to see this project and I plan to follow along Diesel.
I'm especially interested to see that bender do some work!
I already have material for a cab frame but I can think of several uses for some properly bent rebar in a couple of my other upcoming projects.
So please, as was stated earlier, hit us up with LOTS of pictures.
I've been wanting to buy/build a cab for a while now so I'm anxious to see yours happen since I'm always open to other ideas and techniques when it comes to solving a problem.
Best of luck on this project.
:wwp:
I my self would have chose 1/2 or 3/4 inch PCV for the frame work. I think the 8 mill sheeting material will be fine. I would how ever coat the out side viewing area with rain x to help the snow and such slid off.
Sounds as if you have given thought and some research to the project.
Rebar gets surface rust just sitting exposed to air. The only reason that it doesn't rust completely through once it's encased in concrete is because it is no longer exposed to air. So you will need to prep and paint it very well to keep it from rusting on you. Any small nick in the paint will expose it to air again and the rusting process will begin anew. There are a lot of other metals that I would consider before rebar, but if it' what you have on hand and understand the potential for rust and are willing to deal with it, then go ahead.
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