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· Diesel Nut!
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Thinking of building a few cabs for snowblowing this winter. One will go on my Agway GT-18, and the other on my Bolens 1050. Want to keep the cost down, way down, but don't want to make one with plywood. Thinking of a 1" square tube for the frame, and using clear vinyl sheeting (Similar to the plastic used on most modern LT cabs), from Lowe's. Says it is for covering broken windows,and enclosing porches, which makes me think it will hold up to snow/wind. Ideas? A 75 foot roll of this stuff is only 60 bucks so it may end up being just an interesting experiment. Did some googling and turns out most cabs consist of the same thickness (8 mil) sheeting that I was looking at.....thinking i'm gonna try it!
 

· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not shrink wrap, as much as the stuff people use to wrap their porches for the winter. It's a clear vinyl.
 

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I would probably want a thicker vinyl than the stuff that's used for covering up windows. I've seen it used on UTV cab backs and removable doors, and it works pretty well, but it doesn't seem to stay clear for very long.

Most hobby stores have rolls of it in different thicknesses.

You will need something rigid like plate steel or plywood for the roof, and preferably on the doors.
 

· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The stuff i'm looking at is 8 mil thick....pretty darn heavy, and considering it is used on many other GT cabs it should do the trick. Would love lexan but dont have the $$$$

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8 mil is about the same thickness as the nitrile gloves I wear, they tear pretty easily.
 

· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Decided to use rebar steel......have 8+ 12 foot pieces!

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· Administrator - We’re all friends here
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Instead of vinyl for the windshield, try to find something more solid, like Plexiglas. When snow and ice stick to the window, and you brush it off, the vinyl will get scratched up.
 

· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For the price of solid material, I can go buy a cozy cab. Most soft cabs use a similar material, so I don't see an issue?

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· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1/2 inch, and yes it is welbable. Most of the cab frame will be bent out of 1 piece.

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· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
? I'm using rebar, as in the stuff you put in concrete!

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· Premium Member
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Right 1/2" smooth .68 lbs. per ft. Deformed #4 bar .668 lbs. per ft. Estimated and detailed the stuff for 30 years I think I known what is. If you are shaping out not one piece do not expect any square corners there are bending tolerances.
 

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I think what everyone is trying to say is that re-bar is a poor choice of material to use to build a cab, and I agree.

Remember you need to attach this to your tractor and attach the sheeting or panels to it. As mentioned, bending the rebar won't be easy, and making most of the cab from one 12' piece doesn't seem possible unless the cab will be very small.

if your end goal is a cab to keep you out of the weather, yet not break the bank, I recommend using wood. You could rip 2x framing lumber (really 1.5")down to 1.5 x 1.5 and it would be plenty strong, not super heavy, easily paintable , easily workable, easy to modify and attach things to. Making a nice looking cab out of wood is very possible and cost effective.
 

· Diesel Nut!
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow. I'm surprised. This isn't the response I was expecting. This forum is changing. I don't expect to build an entire cab out of 1 piece. However, 1 piece is more than enough to make one of the 2 frames for the side of the cab, as well as the doors. I just bought an industrial tubing bender for the rollcage on my truck, which has a die SPECIFICALLY for 1/2 to 3/4 rebar-shaped material. Sheeting will be attatched with a VERY capable welder. I don't see a problem. Also, wood rots, is a PITA to build an EASILY removabke cab with, and I much rather have a sturdy, lasting cab.
 
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