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Castor Freak
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2,167 Posts
Thats a nice rebuild you got there Tgore, I've seen the video to, nice.
About that new coil, is that like the one that Napa sells? I still have to buy one from Napa for my C60 engine. Also, does the coil come with a new lead? Thanks.
 

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Decesaed (R.I.P.)
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1,957 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That coil is made in Germany, i got it from TEW. They don't appear to come with the lead on the older coils, this one didn't. i reused the old one.

Those are the high end blue Oregon crank seals, double lip and spring.

I forgot about an oiler wick for the points cam. I need to make one or something.

Piston has some scoring but I think it will be ok.

Obviously has a different blade mount than what most of us are use to. I did find a flat 18" blade and the correct stiffener in my parts collection. There is a huge amount of D hole steel washers, a rubber washer, some fiber washers, and a wierd lock washer that mount the blade. I'll have to work something out on that. No blade on it right now.

Can't wait to try it out. I'm use to my other 8F20K with the bigger, more powerful C-18 on it.
 

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Castor Freak
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2,167 Posts
You say it had no blade on it, did that make the engine harder to start? Or did the engine have a blade on it in the video?
 

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Decesaed (R.I.P.)
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1,957 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No blade in the video. Always a bit harder to start w/o a blade. I don't have the choke/kill switch all hooked up yet either. It was kinda 3/4 choked in the video when starting.

My C-18, open fuel valve, choke it, one pull it fires right up.
 

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Lawn-Boys and VW's
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1,839 Posts
Just like my C-10. When I cleaned up my engine I forgot how small the cylinder bore is compared to the larger C and D engines are. I have been using my 8F20 the past couple of times that I mowed my yard.
 

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Registered
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2,420 Posts
Great job Toby.
 

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Decesaed (R.I.P.)
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1,957 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks very much for the compliments and comments. Took most all day, campared to a couple hours for an F rebuild, lol. At least there are no bearings to mess with, lol. Double bushing on the bottom end, single bushing on the top end of crank.

Anyone see the odd brass cap that goes over the main jet?

The bicycle does need air in the tires.

Yeah, the original C's have a tiny bore. They use a different head gasket as well. The O.D. of the cylinder is smaller and the ports are tiny. The A engines have an even smaller bore. There were 3 different size C engines.

I'll post this pic again since it really shows the difference D-600 vs. C-10
 

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Registered
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2,420 Posts
Thanks very much for the compliments and comments. Took most all day, campared to a couple hours for an F rebuild, lol. At least there are no bearings to mess with, lol. Double bushing on the bottom end, single bushing on the top end of crank.

Anyone see the odd brass cap that goes over the main jet?

The bicycle does need air in the tires.

Yeah, the original C's have a tiny bore. They use a different head gasket as well. The O.D. of the cylinder is smaller and the ports are tiny. The A engines have an even smaller bore. There were 3 different size C engines.

I'll post this pic again since it really shows the difference D-600 vs. C-10
Wow...big difference. Is that bore even 2"? Are the carbs fully adjustable. How about enlarging the ports boost port, intake port and smoothing port matching the exhaust ports.

Check this..used this on nitro cars back in the day.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/257149-how-port-nitro-engine.html

smaller motor same principals. Be kinda cool to do this to a C or D if you can get the carb adjsted propely, or add a larger main jet and tune it.
 
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