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Discussion Starter #1
Well I pulled a really stupid one today...
For most of the week I have been working my BX2230 hard. I have about 1/2 acre of bare dirt that I was trying to get grass to grow on. I had a friend come plow it up and have been using a landscape rake to rake it smooth. Today I borrowed a PTO spreader and thought, I will drop the MMM before I start spreading so I can sharpen the blades and mow after I'm done. Just after I had gotten the deck loose from the lift arms and rolled it forward to disengage the PTO shaft, my phone rang. I took the lomg distracting call then finished yanking the deck out from under the mower.

I had spread almost a full load of seed and was headed back to refill. I reached back, shut off the seed feed lever then like I had been doing all morning I grabbed the PTO disengage lever and pulled it back to turn off the PTO... Only it wasn't the PTO disengage lever I grabbed it was the MMM,rear PTO lever! Pulling it back of course engaged the mid PTO. The tractor started making a horrible clanging noise then just quit! I was like ***? I quickly realized I had grabbed the wrong lever but what was the noise? Well I started it back up after putting the PTO back in rear only mode, then put it it gear and... nothing, no motion at all... Then I saw the river of hydraulic fluid running out from under the tractor... :praying:

I knew then what I had forgotten to do when dropping the MMM. I did not remove the PTO stub shaft from the mid PTO output shaft! The phone call just made me forget...

When I looked under the tractor my heart sank. The hydraulic filter was lying in the dirt, and fluid was pouring out. I grabbed my oil change bucket and threw under it to catch what I could. The stub shaft flailing around had sheared off the filter. The mounting nipple from the front of the case was still in the filter end.

So now what? After looking at this it appears that the HST case will have to be split and the front half of it replaced. This is not going to be cheap is it?
The dealer close to me had already closed so it will be Monday before I can even call... I'll try to take some pics later... Oh it also deformed the end of the stub shaft so that will have to be replaced as well...
 

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I hate the feeling at the moment that you realize that you have made a fatal mistake. I had a 78 Jeep CJ-7- I loved that Jeep. It was ldling in the driveway, with the parking brake set. I made the assumption that it would hold, but I hadn't had the Jeep for real long, and didn't know all the ins and outs. Well, I heard gravel crunching, and saw it rolling. I caught up with it just as it smashed into a huge pine tree in the yard. It bent up the tailgate and the tire carrier.
You kick yourself, kick yourself some more, and hyperanalyze the situation. In the end, though, it doesn't change it. Bite the bullet, learn from the mistake, and fix it when you can afford it. Sorry that it happened to you! It is painful to hear stories like this.
 

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Thats a bad feeling right there, the threaded nipples for the filters are usually made of steel and threaded into the aluminum case. You might be lucky and it just broke the steel nipple, also could have ripped the nipple out of the case where it might be able to accept a thread insert type of repair. Hope you don't have to replace the case half.
Post up some pictures if you get a chance.

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well here are pics of the carnage...

It ripped the aluminum case. I thought I might be able to buy a tap the size of the nipple and tap the case. I would have to use a lightly longer nipple and use locktite to hol in it place. Just haven't figured out how to get the tap shavings out of the case...

Luckily I was close to the house when this happened so I can hook my truck to it and tow it to where I can load it. However the FEL is down. I'm going to use a tractor jack to lift the bucket, then use a chain to tie it to the ROPS. Wonder it I can take the FEL off with no hydraulics? Would make it much easier to load on the trailer. Thoughts?
 

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aw man!! That is a bummer .All can be fixed just takes time and money. Don't feel to bad I think we have all done something like that at one time or another. I know that does,nt help you right now, but one day you'll tell the story and it won't hurt so bad after it's fixed
 

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A guy I know who does allignments was just finishing up pulling the mirrors off a car in for an allignment when his wife called... he finished with a test drive and forgot to pull 1 mirror off the car... When the mirror mount freed from the wheel, it destroyed the mirror and the mount, and cost him somthing like $3k for a new mount and mirror
 

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Wow, suprised it is just threaded aluminum. Looks like it broke off pretty clean, hopefully you can just drill and tap the case for a threaded nipple. Use a shop vac to pull shavings out during the drilling (it helps if the area is clean and free of oil) and put grease on the tape to control the shavings. Good luck with the repair.

Brad
 

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After looking at your pictures I think you may have a repair option. I think you only broke the adapter off the case in my b2620 parts book they call it a screw joint. It looks like to me there is a flat part machined on the face of the housing under the broken off piece.

You need to take a closer look and see if there is indeed a machined flat spot under the broken off piece. If you want take a closeup picture of the housing where the filter broke off. If it is an adapter you can proballly get it removed and replace the adapter, filter and refill without taking it to the dealer or dealing with the hastle of loading it on a trailer.

Here is a link to a picture of what I am talking about. Of coures it's not for a Kubota but will give you an idea of what I am trying to say.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wix-24037-Oil-Filter-Adapter-/370596114527?hash=item56493ff05f&item=370596114527&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The only parts book for the BX2230D that I have does not show the oil filter nipple as a separate piece. It only shows the whole front cover. Looking at the parts break down, it appears this will be a labor intensive major repair if the dealer does it. Trying to tap that and keep it perfectly straight is going to be tough. If it's off even slightly, the filter won't seal under pressure. I guess I don't have anything to loose except the cost of a tap, a nipple and my time. If it doesn't work then to the dealer with it to have the front case half replaced...

I included the parts break down and a close up of the broken area. It does not appear to have an insert in it, but tonight I will inspect it after extracting the broken piece from the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yesterday i had to rebuilt the carb on my old Craftsman GT18 mower so I could mow the grass since the BX was out of commission.

Took the better part of the morning to get this done. After some fine tuning was done, she ran better than she ever has.

The Kubota has spoiled me! 60" deck vs. 44" deck, larger tires, faster cutting speed and power steering. I was worn out after cutting the yard with the Craftsman.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One more thing. The FEL bled down overnight to where is was sitting on the ground. Makes it hard to tow if you can't lift the bucket! My original idea of raising it and tying it to the ROPS did not work too well, so I came up with another idea that worked perfectly.

I have a boat. What does that have to do with tractors? Well when towing a boat with a stern drive it's recommended that you place these hard plastic gizmos around the trim cylinders to keep from shock loading them. You raise the stern unit, clip the plastic things around the cylinder arms then let it down until they are supporting the weight of the stern unit. I figured the same thing would work for the FEL cylinders.
I looked around the shop and found a heavy duty angle bracket. I used my Hi-Lift jack to raise the bucket about a foot, measured the exposed cylinder shaft, and cut the bracket into two equal pieces. I sat the pieces of angle bracket on top of the cylinder arms and secured them with a hose clamp. After letting the jack down it held just fine allowing me to tow the tractor to the top of the driveway. It was still holding this morning. :thThumbsU
 

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The filter nipple should just be screwed into the housing. If you can get it out and if Kubota doesn't sell it you could probably have a machine shop make one for you if you take both pieces to them.
 

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You may have the luck of the Japanese on your side. That pipe nipple is probably a standard size in metric. It may take a bit of looking, but if Kubota does not sell them, a LARGE parts store may have them in stock. I'll bet that the pipe size is the same as many automobiles made in Japan. It could take some looking but I think you'll find one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just got off the phone with the Kubota dealer mechanic. He said he had never heard of anyone doing what I did so I guess that makes me special...

He wasn't 100% sure but thought that the older Kubota B series had a threaded nipple for the filter, but the newer BX series had a machined nipple. He allowed that the BX line has a lot of "short cuts" like that. He also said labor was $55.00 and hour and it was a minimum 5 hour job plus parts. 3-7 days to get the part and 2-3 days to do the work. He said they had to drop the entire rear end out and disassemble it.

If I decide to have them do this, is there anything extra I should have them do while they have it apart? Any other serviceable parts in the HST, rear end? I know the engine valves are also due for adjustment at 800 hours, and I have 827 on it...

I'm calling another dealer right now to see if he says the same thing...
 

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Is it crack?
 

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If it's cracked it will be soon be replaced... (It does look cracked now that you pointed that out...)

Second dealer confirmed it: No insert, the nipple is part of the case so the only repair is to replace the front half of the case. The part is $285.15. Second shop labor rate is $70.00 and hour and says it will take 2.5 hours. Not sure who to believe, but the first dealer offers free pickup. The second dealer says I live too far out, and would charge $125.00 to come that far each way...

So by the time they add new seals to the case half, fluid, and a filter and the valve job, Ill be looking at $1000.... :crybaby: I wonder if they would take my spare 60" mower deck in trade? :thThumbsU
 

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If it's cracked it will be soon be replaced... (It does look cracked now that you pointed that out...)

Second dealer confirmed it: No insert, the nipple is part of the case so the only repair is to replace the front half of the case. The part is $285.15. Second shop labor rate is $70.00 and hour and says it will take 2.5 hours. Not sure who to believe, but the first dealer offers free pickup. The second dealer says I live too far out, and would charge $125.00 to come that far each way...

So by the time they add new seals to the case half, fluid, and a filter and the valve job, Ill be looking at $1000.... :crybaby: I wonder if they would take my spare 60" mower deck in trade? :thThumbsU
Outch!!!!!!! one grand,,, that's hard to swallow for a phone call.
 

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Ooooo... That just hurts to look at.

It also make me want to go out and buy the skid plate I have been putting off and putting off.

So If I understand your description you left the mini shaft on that connects the Mid-PTO to the deck and that is what did the damage? Or was it something else. Wasn't it making a bunch of noise banging around down there???

My sympathies all around.
 
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