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Originally I wanted x739 but the lack of a loader turned me off. I searched the aftermarket for add on bucket loaders and tractor shovels but they are nothing like proper front loader. My 3 acreage is not a golf green but rather “managed crab grass.” That said, I want to make the right choice on tires. The tractor as it sits now is equpped with R4 tires. I have used turf tires for years on my Woods zero turn.

What are recommendations? Turf tires or the more tractor like R4s?

Please explain why.

I have a 200 foot pave driveway and a 450 foot secondary gravel driveway. Four large maple trees populate the property. and a dozen pine trees adjoin the gravel driveway but they are pruned eight feet up from the ground. So, the property is pretty open and easy to mow.

Bill
 

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I have R4's on my 2305 which is the prior model tractor and is comparable to weight and size to the 1025R. On my 2305 I discovered very quickly with the thorn and blackberries that the turf tires will puncture easily, they are 2 ply on the fronts. I bought my 2305 with the turfs and they were disappointing. They also easily got stuck on wet grass and the clay soil they quickly dug themselves into the ground.

The R4's I went with after the fact (cost was about $650.00) stopped most of the issues except they WILL leave marks in the ground on wet soil. Not a big issue with me as my place is a lot like yours but my property used to be a pasture that I smoothed out and left to whatever grass would grow and boy does it here. One thing I have discover is if you are mowing you have to drop off the front end loader and mine has the backhoe. I take both off when mowing and the marks from the R4's are much less. The marks are mainly when I turn. NO doubt about and go for the R4's at least for me.
 
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What are recommendations? Turf tires or the more tractor like R4s?

Please explain why.

I have a 200 foot pave driveway and a 450 foot secondary gravel driveway. Four large maple trees populate the property. and a dozen pine trees adjoin the gravel driveway but they are pruned eight feet up from the ground. So, the property is pretty open and easy to mow.

Bill
Turfs. R4s are useless in snow.

I have a MF GC 2310 with turfs, comparable to a JD 1025. My neighbor has a Kubota B2920 CUT with R4s that weighs a few hundred pounds more. In a bucket to bucket pushing contest on his hard packed snow driveway, the best his tractor could do was keep mine from pushing his, even though we were both spinning. On the second try on a different part of the driveway, the SCUT pushed the CUT, not fast, and not far before I had to back off to regain traction, but it would do it again, and again, each time I regained traction. Experience may have had some measure of effect on this push-off. I have 40 years versus his 5 years using small FEL tractors. He plows one driveway per snowfall, I plow eight.

When actually pushing snow, there was no competition. The SCUT was the winner quite handily. He now has a 500 lb blower on the 3PH which has improved his traction substantially.

Note that snow duty is the primary use for my SCUT. That's why the turfs. Enough traction to kill the diesel at WOT in HI when pushing back the windrow left by the street plow after a couple of weeks, and make it hunker down and blow coal before it breaks traction in LO in the same scenario.

R4s are best if road hazards are prevalent. They are industrial tires most often found on fork lifts in industrial yards where strapping and other tire cutting hazards exist. They are not a substitute for ags for soft field conditions, but they are a slight improvement over turfs.
 

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My LS MT125 is the same as the 1025R more or less. I looked at both and a few others in the same size range. Nearly all came stock with R4s. With the BH, loader, MMM, Rimguard in all four tires and a tub of lard in the seat, it's pushing 2500 pounds, maybe more. That's gonna make an impression in soft ground. As it was told to me, they're a stiffer tire with stronger sidewalls which helps reduce squatting under load when digging or hauling material. With the outriggers out, I can pull the backend down if I get the BH bucket caught on a rock or root, but from the seat, I can't tell if it's the tires or something else.

I have a yard full of Locust and Cleveland Pear trees and a few others with nice sharp thorns. I also run a walk behind field and brush mower that leaves 1-2" 'punji sticks' behind. They're stiff enough to twist an ankle if you step on one wrong. I've rolled over a few of those with no punctures so far.


One thing I've noticed so far is that they don't do mud on inclines well. Even in 4WD and Low range, they will sit and spin when I try to climb a hill in my clay when it turns to slicker than snail snot mud/slime. But to be fair, I can't walk up or down my hills when they get like that either. I've lost my footing and gone down in it more than once.

Can't comment on snow or ice performance since I don't use it for that.
 

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I use the Turf Tires in both my 445 and 1026R with the FEL on the 1026R and have few problems. I chain up for the winter on the 445 and leave the chains on the 1026R year round. The Turf tires on the 1026R are 4 ply probably because it came from the Dealer as a package. I have had no issues with the turf tires in snow and few problems in my old Cedar swampland pasture yard. I have had to use the FEL to get out of a few wet spots in the spring and use the 1026R to extract the 445 from those same spots. In the summer when the land has had a chance to dry I have no issues. I am looking at HDAP tires if I ever have to replace them, but I find it hard to justify the expense to replace something that is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Turfs. R4s are useless in snow.

I have a MF GC 2310 with turfs, comparable to a JD 1025. My neighbor has a Kubota B2920 CUT with R4s that weighs a few hundred pounds more. In a bucket to bucket pushing contest on his hard packed snow driveway, the best his tractor could do was keep mine from pushing his, even though we were both spinning. On the second try on a different part of the driveway, the SCUT pushed the CUT, not fast, and not far before I had to back off to regain traction, but it would do it again, and again, each time I regained traction. Experience may have had some measure of effect on this push-off. I have 40 years versus his 5 years using small FEL tractors. He plows one driveway per snowfall, I plow eight.

When actually pushing snow, there was no competition. The SCUT was the winner quite handily. He now has a 500 lb blower on the 3PH which has improved his traction substantially.

Note that snow duty is the primary use for my SCUT. That's why the turfs. Enough traction to kill the diesel at WOT in HI when pushing back the windrow left by the street plow after a couple of weeks, and make it hunker down and blow coal before it breaks traction in LO in the same scenario.

R4s are best if road hazards are prevalent. They are industrial tires most often found on fork lifts in industrial yards where strapping and other tire cutting hazards exist. They are not a substitute for ags for soft field conditions, but they are a slight improvement over turfs.
With you having 10 feet of snow average snowfall (WOW) you make a case for using turf tires based on your neighbors compact utility tractor getting stuck with R4’s.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm seriously considering a 1025 or a 2025 this year. Spoke to the sales manager at my local JD, talking about my needs.. and he recommended the R3's.. He had a 2025 there with them on, its softer so it has better grip in the winter, but a deeper, more aggressive tread than turfs.


https://www.tires4that.com/itemdetail/135259?gclid=CjwKCAiAqOriBRAfEiwAEb9oXQH7xYRv4cXhbP-Q2nv9HLqvt4HcwS7VDPg8f9dUfqi09ud8_MIWEBoCWcoQAvD_BwE
Oh boy, another option. :tango_face_surprise My head is going to explode.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I use the Turf Tires in both my 445 and 1026R with the FEL on the 1026R and have few problems. I chain up for the winter on the 445 and leave the chains on the 1026R year round. The Turf tires on the 1026R are 4 ply probably because it came from the Dealer as a package. I have had no issues with the turf tires in snow and few problems in my old Cedar swampland pasture yard. I have had to use the FEL to get out of a few wet spots in the spring and use the 1026R to extract the 445 from those same spots. In the summer when the land has had a chance to dry I have no issues. I am looking at HDAP tires if I ever have to replace them, but I find it hard to justify the expense to replace something that is working.
Chains on all-year-around on your 1026R. Is that true or a typo.

HDAP is another option I have not considered.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have R4's on my 2305 which is the prior model tractor and is comparable to weight and size to the 1025R. On my 2305 I discovered very quickly with the thorn and blackberries that the turf tires will puncture easily, they are 2 ply on the fronts. I bought my 2305 with the turfs and they were disappointing. They also easily got stuck on wet grass and the clay soil they quickly dug themselves into the ground.

The R4's I went with after the fact (cost was about $650.00) stopped most of the issues except they WILL leave marks in the ground on wet soil. Not a big issue with me as my place is a lot like yours but my property used to be a pasture that I smoothed out and left to whatever grass would grow and boy does it here. One thing I have discover is if you are mowing you have to drop off the front end loader and mine has the backhoe. I take both off when mowing and the marks from the R4's are much less. The marks are mainly when I turn. NO doubt about and go for the R4's at least for me.
In twenty-two years at my home I have had one flat tire on my Woods zero turn with turf tires. I picked up a deck screw. No thorny vegetation.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have R4's on my 2305 which is the prior model tractor and is comparable to weight and size to the 1025R. On my 2305 I discovered very quickly with the thorn and blackberries that the turf tires will puncture easily, they are 2 ply on the fronts. I bought my 2305 with the turfs and they were disappointing. They also easily got stuck on wet grass and the clay soil they quickly dug themselves into the ground.

The R4's I went with after the fact (cost was about $650.00) stopped most of the issues except they WILL leave marks in the ground on wet soil. Not a big issue with me as my place is a lot like yours but my property used to be a pasture that I smoothed out and left to whatever grass would grow and boy does it here. One thing I have discover is if you are mowing you have to drop off the front end loader and mine has the backhoe. I take both off when mowing and the marks from the R4's are much less. The marks are mainly when I turn. NO doubt about and go for the R4's at least for me.
Removing the loader and ballast box when mowing makes sense. Turfs on my zero turn have only had one puncture in 22 years (from a deck screw). No foilage that could puncture.
 

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Turfs. R4s are useless in snow.
Bob, that is a pretty broad statement.... On my X748 I have found limited changed in snow performance from my HDAP's to R4's. Both perform well and the R4's outperform any other tires I have tried for loader performance. I will still run out of power before I run out of traction in many cases.

There are tons of 1025R's out there with R4's that seem to do really well in the snow.

Does the dealer have a 1025R with turfs they need to sell? Reason I ask is the dealer here stock ordered a 1025R with turfs last Spring.... they still have it... meanwhile an untold number of 1025's with R4's have been ordered in and sold (in August they sold 5 in one week).
 

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I never got stuck in the recent snow we have here. I also after moving the snow went over to the road I live on and spread sand with my 2305 and working with a neighbor we got the job done
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks to all I have made a decision.

Based on my property and primary use of mowing and mulching my yard I just decided to go with the turf tires.

Bill
 

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Use what you think will work best for your application. I personally use and want the industrial R4's. I have used industrial equipment for years with R4 tires and many of those years clearing snow and ice, never once had any issue with traction. And as for the R4 tires marking up the turf, they will not mark up the ground any more than turf tires, it is all in how you operate the machine.
 

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Turf are better in grass and snow but load up and don't clean out as well on dirt and mud.

R4s are fine in snow if you have weight on the back for traction but they are not as good as turfs in the snow.

I push a lot of snow with my R4s with no problem but I have 500 pounds of ballast on the three point.

If you're going to be working in dirt a lot I'd get the R4s.

If this is your primary mower and snow Pusher I would get turfs.

I have a GC 2400 similar size as the one you're looking at. I do not mow with it.
 

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Yes, I leave the chains on the rear tires all year, I want the traction and I don't care about the "Lawn" it is old cow pasture I only mow to keep the poplar trees from taking over. 90% of the mowing is done with the 445 and I brush hog with the 1026R in the poorer sections of the property. I am allergic to Grass so I mow as little as possible, I don't know if it is the dust kicked up or something else, but after 6-8 hours mowing my eyes swell up and itch like crazy so I keep it to the minimum, a couple hours every couple of weeks keeps the grass and weeds in check. We keep the area next to the house neater, but that can't be seen from the road so it is more of a fire protection thought in my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have R4's on my 2305 which is the prior model tractor and is comparable to weight and size to the 1025R. On my 2305 I discovered very quickly with the thorn and blackberries that the turf tires will puncture easily, they are 2 ply on the fronts. I bought my 2305 with the turfs and they were disappointing. They also easily got stuck on wet grass and the clay soil they quickly dug themselves into the ground.

The R4's I went with after the fact (cost was about $650.00) stopped most of the issues except they WILL leave marks in the ground on wet soil. Not a big issue with me as my place is a lot like yours but my property used to be a pasture that I smoothed out and left to whatever grass would grow and boy does it here. One thing I have discover is if you are mowing you have to drop off the front end loader and mine has the backhoe. I take both off when mowing and the marks from the R4's are much less. The marks are mainly when I turn. NO doubt about and go for the R4's at least for me.
Yes, I leave the chains on the rear tires all year, I want the traction and I don't care about the "Lawn" it is old cow pasture I only mow to keep the poplar trees from taking over. 90% of the mowing is done with the 445 and I brush hog with the 1026R in the poorer sections of the property. I am allergic to Grass so I mow as little as possible, I don't know if it is the dust kicked up or something else, but after 6-8 hours mowing my eyes swell up and itch like crazy so I keep it to the minimum, a couple hours every couple of weeks keeps the grass and weeds in check. We keep the area next to the house neater, but that can't be seen from the road so it is more of a fire protection thought in my mind.
It makes sense to me.

Bill
 
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