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Thank you very much for the replies! I will definitely purchase the tractor once some of the snow is gone (assuming that it's still available which it should be)!

I have mechanically restored my 318 for a far worse condition 4 years ago so hopefully, I will be able to repair the 430 as well. My John Deere 318 Story and Problems (Lots of Pics)

I should be able to make the necessary adapters to mount a different muffler onto the machine (assuming I can find a muffler that will fit between the frame and the oil pan).

It also appears that the battery tray form 314, 316, 317 and 318 will fit into the 430, but if I can't find one I will simply make it.

Form my research, the TDM modules interchange between all open frame 300 and 400 series tractors, but I found them with two types of connectors (early and late version?). Please correct me if I am wrong.

Where is the glowplug module located on the 430? I am not sure if this one still has it since like I said earlier, the electrical system has been messed with.
If you mount a good used replacement muffler properly and make absolutely sure there is no strain on it. Using the original mounts it will last. It should sit in the place it belongs without any bolts and no spaces between it and the block. If it has to be pulled into place it WILL break. Another one of those things I have had to repair too often.
Module is on the firewall just behind the injection pump.
420 parts will also fit for a lot of things. Beware of VIN's beacuse there can be substantial differences in same model different VIN. Front wheels / bearings / axles and hydro control lever linkage are prime examples.
 

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If you want to make your own muffler I have been looking for something for my 322, The best thing I have found that will fit and be modified for a Yanmar is from a Kabota B1550. Part # KU-2 from Amazon for $74. Good luck with your 430 if you get it

BWT did you get your 318 fixed?
 

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Teen With 318
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55 Posts
Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I have owned my current 430's for more than 6 years and when I first purchased them they needed tons of work. 1st one was about 6 solid weekends to straighten everything out. The 2nd one was far worse. I have a chance to trade the 2nd for a zero turn but cannot bring myself to do it.
If the rad needs work then use a SMALL amount of the powdered rad sealer - make sure you follow the directions to a tee - in it after you replace the drain valve. I have never had to do any more than that on any of them and most of the ones I have sold and still know where they are are still running with the original rad. The recores work for a few years but seem to suffer cracking at the soldered joints. A flush and fill with JD long life antifreeze and a little sealer and Bob's your uncle. Or brother or cousin.
Once you learn how these tractors work you will have a good reliable 30+ year old tractor.
Just remember to add some conditioner to the fuel.
Almost all of the repairs I have had to do was because someone didn't know what they were doing and made a complete mess. Fuel hose for power steering hoses, cutting another slot in the hydro lever panel for "N" instead of repairing the worn out linkage and adjusting the rod, leaving the hydro unit to frame bolts loose and wearing out the frame holes making it impossible to eliminate the "creep" everyone talks about, adding weld to the slots in the mower lift brackets instead of shortening the flat bars that go to the rock shaft, not checking the rear axle nuts and wearing out the key way in the rear hub / shaft, not checking clearance on the 2 pipes at the top of the hydro unit and leaving them till they wore holes in the pipes, ....................... and the list goes on.
Simple little things like lots of grease, setting PTO clutch clearance saving it from burning out, greasing the driveshaft u joints (a pain but necessary), adjusting the front axle pivot bolts, oil and filter changes with good quality oil and filters, making sure the rad stays clean (super important when using it as a mower), changing the hydro filter and fluid with proper LoVis (twice if necessary because someone will pipe in and say otherwise. I have never had a hydro apart even tho I bought 'em with hydro problems), installing good coolant, lots of grease, setting valve clearances and all of the regular stuff including lots of grease :))) will go a long way in giving you the same service I have gotten out of all of mine.
Not everything has to come from mother JD. Their glow plugs = mucho donero. Replacement NGK's = cheap like beer. Cleaning the headlight lens with a toothbrush or stiff nylon brush, some good cleaner and a little chrome paint and voila you can see at dusk again. Putting new orings in the hydraulic couplers = fiddely but cheap and fixes most. Or find a hydraulic supplier and replace couplers for a LOT less. And there is lots of used available from the usual places.
If you can get it for a good price and are prepared for a little work (Ok, probably quite a bit of work) you will end up with a great unit. If it was closer I would jump on it in a heartbeat. Not for $1k but $600 for sure. But that is purely my opinion (yes we all know THAT joke) from way over here in the west and am not sure what you should pay based on seeing it. As long as it runs and moves on its own that is where I would deal on it.
Good luck
One thing I forgot - get a workshop manual. Consider shop labor at really high $ rates and the amount you will save doing it correctly yourself it will pay for itself very quickly. The old adage "If you want it done right do it yourself" has nothing to do with doing it correctly. It just means you did it your way. Right or Wrong!
Ok, I just remembered. Get really familiar with the JD parts on line diagrams. They are the things I use most. Print them or save them as PDF's and create a shortcut. You will use them lots.
Sorry for being so long winded but as you can probably tell I am a huge fan of these old beasts.
Thanks for the info!
Fuel like for power steering hose sounds like a terrible idea🤦‍♂️... I do have a repair manual for the machine and I am very familiar with the 300 series tractors that are very similar to the 400 series.

If you want to make your own muffler I have been looking for something for my 322, The best thing I have found that will fit and be modified for a Yanmar is from a Kabota B1550. Part # KU-2 from Amazon for $74. Good luck with your 430 if you get it

BWT did you get your 318 fixed?
Thanks for the suggestion. I will have to look into it once I get the tractor. The exhaust set up on the 430 is totally different from the 322 so I am not sure if that muffler will work.

And yes, I did get my 318 fixed up! I got a THRID engine (which I also rebuilt) for it since I never resolved the oil puke issue with that the original engine had. During the past 4 years of owning that tractor, I have replaced every rubber seal in it. I have disassembled the transmission, power steering valve, hydraulic valve, and engine at different points in time.
 

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Teen With 318
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Discussion Starter #24
UPDATE

The bad news is that unfortunately, someone bought the 430 before me... Honestly, I am not very disappointed since that tractor did need quite a few expensive parts and has been "farmer hacked" previously.

The good news is that I bought the 316 and I finally convinced the owner of that small engine repair shop to sell me a Kubota tractor which I wanted to buy for the last two years.

The John Deere 316 only has 433 hours on the meter and is in pretty good shape (original uncracked seat!!!). It's a late model (1989) with a P218 Onan engine that threw the #2 rod (appears that it ran low on oil). Fortunately, no damage was done to the block or crankshaft. The cylinders are in very good shape and even the original crosshatch is still visible. I do have all the necessary parts to repair it and I will most likely sell it once I get it fixed.

The Kubota tractor is a much more interesting project. It's a late 1984 B7200D all-wheel drive diesel sub-compact tractor with 18xx hours. Basically the PO of the tractor replaced the clutch and forgot to install the pilot bushing into the end of the crank and kept using the machine with the input shaft banging around in the end of the crankshaft 🤬... As a result, the end of the input shaft and the hole in the crankshaft are now damaged and the splines on the clutch disk are gone. The tractor also needs a new radiator and ignition switch.

Should I start a new thread about the Kubota project?
 

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UPDATE

The bad news is that unfortunately, someone bought the 430 before me... Honestly, I am not very disappointed since that tractor did need quite a few expensive parts and has been "farmer hacked" previously.


Should I start a new thread about the Kubota project?
I'd recommend a new thread for it and in the Kubota forum too!
 
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