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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a Bunton 52” walk behind that I want to keep running, but finding resources for information are impossible to find. Any search I do of the model number or serial number returns no results. Hopefully this forum can help!

The only info I know for sure is that it has a Kawasaki FC400V power unit. The thing runs like an an absolute champ!

Model #: B52H-11 BI/C
Serial #: IIB52H4237

My current project with it is replacing both of the deck belts and the engine-to-deck belt. I do not know what the correct replacements are for these belts, and also cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the engine-to-deck belt off the pulley as it is on top with the engine-t—transmission belt on bottom. The tensioner doesn’t not seem obvious.

The last photo is of the belts I can’t figure out how to remove.

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Nick, Textron owned both Bunton and Bobcat at one time. From what I know they were the same machine and then they eventually discontinued Bunton.

So if you have a Bobcat dealer near you that might be a good place to check and see if they can help.
 

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That large bar setup that is diagonal in your picture, going to the pulley in the lower right looks like it's adjustable, in that the bolt that runs along it pushes the pulley towards the corner, tightening the belts. You might also need/want to loosen the bolt in the slot, as that may be used to help hold it in place once the first bolt has been adjusted correctly.
 

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I've edited your image to indicate the two bolts I mentioned:
1 looks like the bolt used to set the belt tension
2 looks like the bolt used to hold the tension (so you loosen this, then adjusted bolt 1, then tighten this once the tension is correct).
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And to get those belts off, loosen bolt 2, then screw in bolt 1 (so it goes up/left), then the pulley should be able to slide up and to the left, so you can then get the belts off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the insight guys. I was able to identify the tensioner finally before seeing reply’s. I ordered belts that matched length and width to replace all the deck belts and the engine-to-transmission belt. Made several adjustments as the blades were engaged when starting the mower.

The new issue is that engine-to-deck belt is sitting still on the engine crankshaft pulley when the deck is not engaged. Meaning it is just burning up the belt. Not sure how to make the adjustment to have it run freely of the belt spindle pulley while still running on the crankshaft pulley.
 

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That is a common method for a pto enable/disable mechanism (to release/put tension on a belt), particularly on older or cheaper equipment. It's fine that way, nothing is wrong, and the belt isn't being burned up. It's a problem when the mechanism doesn't get the belt under enough tension when the deck is enabled, as that will burn up the belt by slipping a bit while transmitting power (as there is a lot more friction happening in this case).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is a common method for a pto enable/disable mechanism (to release/put tension on a belt), particularly on older or cheaper equipment. It's fine that way, nothing is wrong, and the belt isn't being burned up. It's a problem when the mechanism doesn't get the belt under enough tension when the deck is enabled, as that will burn up the belt by slipping a bit while transmitting power (as there is a lot more friction happening in this case).
i was concerned as I saw smoke coming from the belt while the unit was sitting still running. I’ve made some small adjustments. Just doesn’t seem right that it has melted into the belt. This is only while the blades are not running
 

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If it's smoking when the deck is not going, then perhaps the mechanism isn't releasing enough tension (ie, it's too tight, so it rubs too much on that pulley in this state). I'm kinda not leaning towards this, as the pic in post #8 has a pin welded to the deck that is touching the belt (this is a common method used to stop the belt when the tension on the belt is released, it doesn't/shouldn't touch the belt when it's tight).

I would suggest getting the deck belt off the engine pulley and examining the pulley. Perhaps there's oil/grease/rubber/dirt on the pulley causing extra friction when the belt is loose?
 

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Thanks for all the insight guys. I was able to identify the tensioner finally before seeing reply’s. I ordered belts that matched length and width to replace all the deck belts and the engine-to-transmission belt. Made several adjustments as the blades were engaged when starting the mower.

The new issue is that engine-to-deck belt is sitting still on the engine crankshaft pulley when the deck is not engaged. Meaning it is just burning up the belt. Not sure how to make the adjustment to have it run freely of the belt spindle pulley while still running on the crankshaft pulley.
Hi Nick
I have a similar machine, B52-14k It's an absolute mess.
can you tell me what belt part numbers you went with. I think I may need them same ones. I am also looking for spindles, the right and left of center spindles have substantial play. If you have any sources, thoughts or part numbers, I would appreciate it. any idea the year of your machine.
thanks
 

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Have a Bunton 52” walk behind that I want to keep running, but finding resources for information are impossible to find. Any search I do of the model number or serial number returns no results. Hopefully this forum can help!

The only info I know for sure is that it has a Kawasaki FC400V power unit. The thing runs like an an absolute champ!

Model #: B52H-11 BI/C
Serial #: IIB52H4237

My current project with it is replacing both of the deck belts and the engine-to-deck belt. I do not know what the correct replacements are for these belts, and also cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the engine-to-deck belt off the pulley as it is on top with the engine-t—transmission belt on bottom. The tensioner doesn’t not seem obvious.

Can you share what belts you wound up buying for this? And how well did the ground speed adjustment work after replacing the belts?

I have the exact same belt arrangement on mine and I can't get the sizing right since I never had the original belts.

Thanks!
 

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The ground speed is a CVT pulley on this machine. You can disassemble the double CVT pulley and the engine sheave pulley then clean the rust and fudd out of em.
When I was running this model back in 1992 it was difficult at best to keep the sheaves clean and loose enough that they would actually adjust speeds without encouragement from a mallet. A freshly cleaned CVT lasted somewhat less than 40 hours of runtime.

Once you're used to the machine you'll find they really don't go all that fast at full speed.
I clutched the speed with the hand levers when I needed to slow down to turn or change mowing direction. Your hands will get a lot stronger after a summer running one of those machines 30 hours a week.
I have the next generation BG52 model with the Peerless 5 speed gearbox. I run her in 3rd & 4th gear and slow her down with the hand levers.

Once upon a time I actually knew the John Deere model numbers that Bunton built. If you have a decent John Deere dealer you can likely get a gander at the parts books and buy belts for the mid 1980's 52" flat front John Deere commercial walk behind mowers. They're the exact same machine. The workshop manual for that model Deere is TM1305.
 

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You're interested in the Variable speed belts. Both of them should be fairly heavy BX series cogged belts IIRC. The last time I was under the drive section of a variable speed CVT drive Bunton built mower was 1994 but I worked on them several times a season from 1990 - 1994 so take my recollection for what it's worth.
The double CVT sheave pulley is on an arm attached to the speed control lever.

Bunton V Belt application section from the service books in the MTF Bunton library. Belts (A) Bunton belt use by category (B) Dayco v-belt...

The Cogged belt from the double CVT pulley to the differential pulley. PL0748 BUNTON Cogged Replacement V-Belt
The Cogged belt from the engine CVT pulley to the double CVT pulley on the control lever could be one of two different parts. PL0848 or PL0948. I'd buy one of both sizes and return the one that doesn't fit.
1- PL0848 BUNTON Cogged Replacement V-Belt
2- PL0948 BUNTON Cogged Replacement V-Belt

Wheel traction belts should be. PL0619 BUNTON Classic Replacement V-Belt
NOTE: I have used Blue 5/8" Huskee Kevlar belts from Tractor Supply on the wheels of my BG52. The 5/8 V belt seems to work OK even tho it's not exactly correct. I bought several and returned the ones that didn't fit well. If I was mowing 30 hours a week I'd get the proper B/5L belt cause the cross section really is slightly different so the B/5L should wear better.

The blade belt routing and other adjustment & operation information is in the owner manual. The mid 1980's X-Prefix owner manual, while not exactly the same, should be similar enough that you can make do.
Adjusting the cutting height with blade spindle bolt spacers, front caster spacers, and blade deck to drive attachment points should be the same as the older machines.
 
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