[shenninger]

I've decided to build a 3 point hitch for my Ingersoll 4016 and thought I'd share my progress. I started by cutting the lift arms from a sheet of 1/2" steel. Then I milled them to make them square:

I finished cutting the rest of the pieces from 1/4", then drilled...and drilled.....and drilled some more. There's a LOT of holes. I first drilled pilot holes:

Then the finished holes:

Here's a pic of some of the pieces:

Tonight I finished cutting and drilling the rest of the pieces and did a mockup:

That's about all I can do for not until the rest of my parts get here. I'll post some more pictures when I finish it up.

 

[coldone]

Nice work.
How did you bend the lower arms that precise?

 

[shenninger]

Nice work.
How did you bend the lower arms that precise?

Thanks.

I cheated!! I went to my local welding shop. They have a large hydraulic brake and had them bend the arms as well as the main plate. Best $10 spent on this project! Sure beats the way I was going to do it....heat and a hammer.

 

[Hydronerd]

Thanks.

I cheated!! I went to my local welding shop. They have a large hydraulic brake and had them bend the arms as well as the main plate. Best $10 spent on this project! Sure beats the way I was going to do it....heat and a hammer.

Thats not cheating, thats doing it right; and $10 is well worth it. Did you happen to have a sheet of 1/2" plate? And how did you cut it?

All my bits of metal have rust on them! Including my tractors!

 

[shenninger]

Thats not cheating, thats doing it right; and $10 is well worth it. Did you happen to have a sheet of 1/2" plate? And how did you cut it?

All my bits of metal have rust on them! Including my tractors!

Having the right tools at my disposal helps. I have one of these at work:

 

[jdcrawler]

Having the right tools at my disposal helps. I have one of these at work:

Before I retired, I had access to a band saw like that where I worked .. I sure do miss it.

 

[Bart]

Your fabrication work looks excellent! Wish I had access to all of the equipment you do. My local welding shop lets me use some of their equipment including the ironman shear and brake--fabulous piece of equipment to have around.

One question, what is the size of the top shaft? It looks quite a bit smaller than the OEM hitch which uses a piece of tubing approximately 1.125 or 1.250 OD. That's a pretty high stress part so you don't want to get caught undersized.

 

[shenninger]

Your fabrication work looks excellent! Wish I had access to all of the equipment you do. My local welding shop lets me use some of their equipment including the ironman shear and brake--fabulous piece of equipment to have around.

One question, what is the size of the top shaft? It looks quite a bit smaller than the OEM hitch which uses a piece of tubing approximately 1.125 or 1.250 OD. That's a pretty high stress part so you don't want to get caught undersized.

The top shaft is 1" solid cold rolled steel. I have some 1.5" OD structural tubing that I'll add a couple grease fittings for it to turn in. The couple things that I'm going to do different than in the pictures is to drop the lift arm anchor point down an inch or 2, and I'm not going to use that cylinder. I thought it was a 4" stroke, but it's only a 2". I've since ordered a heavy 4" stroke cylinder to make sure I get maximum travel. I'm still waiting on the swivel eyes and adjustable lift links so I'm limited as to what I can work on.

Guess it'll soon be time to make the 3pt. to sleeve hitch adapter. Don't need any special parts for that.

 

[P B G]

Having the right tools at my disposal helps. I have one of these at work:

Lots of deburring time?

 

[shenninger]

Lots of deburring time?

PLENTY!!!

Here's what I got done today. I cut and turned the sleeves and installed grease fittings.

I got everything welded together that I could and bolted it up to see how it fit.

I'll probably prime and paint tomorrow, and wait for the hardware to finish the lift arms.

 

[Bart]

The top shaft is 1" solid cold rolled steel. I have some 1.5" OD structural tubing that I'll add a couple grease fittings for it to turn in.

That should do the job! It didn't look quite that big in the photo.

 

[jdcrawler]

I've looked at several 3-point hitches on garden tractors because I'm going to be building one for my tractor.
None of them look as well built as what you're making.

 

[shenninger]

I've looked at several 3-point hitches on garden tractors because I'm going to be building one for my tractor.
None of them look as well built as what you're making.

Thanks Ray. That means a lot coming from you!! Here's a picture of it with paint:

I'm still waiting on the rest of the parts to finish the build. Hopefully they'll all get here this week. I'm dying to try it out.

 

[gravely-power]

Very nice work.

 

[Mark Adams]

Very nice work. I would also like to put on the back of my homemade tractor a 3 point hitch.
Is this going to be a category 1 hitch?
I like the way this looks, would you be willing to share your plans.
good work
Mark

 

[ctown75]

Nice work, Scott- your fabrication work is top notch!!! I have been scrolling through your build threads trying to decide how bad I want to undertake a loader build for my 448. That's the reason I got it, so I probably should! Keep up the superb work!! We need more guys like you to balance out the guys like me doing shaunty fab work LOL

 

[C F Industries]

Very nice! It is obvious that you put some time in the planning of this lift. This look like it was factory made.

 

[shenninger]

Nice work, Scott- your fabrication work is top notch!!! I have been scrolling through your build threads trying to decide how bad I want to undertake a loader build for my 448. That's the reason I got it, so I probably should! Keep up the superb work!! We need more guys like you to balance out the guys like me doing shaunty fab work LOL

Thanks. One of the things you'll notice is that unless you have power steering on your 448, using a FEL on it will be tough. I went through 2 steering gears on my 4016 before I decided to build the Artic-IngerCase. The FEL puts a lot of weight on the front end. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just recommending that you really think it through.

 

[ctown75]

I appreciate your input! It means more coming from someone who actually had it. Ideas for steering keep popping in and out of my brain....... I'm not going to be using the deck on this machine, so part of me wants to just mount up an orbital valve and go fully hydraulic with the steering....But another idea I saw somewhere else was using a sturdy right angle gear box...with gearing a little higher than the factory steering, so it's sturdier and much easier to turn, you just gotta turn the wheel a little more. I used a similar idea on another tractor that I built a steering set up on, Basically I just fabbed up an arm to bolt to the factory pitman arm on the spindle, It worked like a dreamed and took all the stress off the gearbox....it just doesn't turn as sharp anymore.....so lots of ideas, just not real sure. This tractor isn't even on the project list yet just compiling ideas.

Did your 4016 use the factory hydraulic pump/cooler/reservoir? How did that stuff fair?

 

[shenninger]

I appreciate your input! It means more coming from someone who actually had it. Ideas for steering keep popping in and out of my brain....... I'm not going to be using the deck on this machine, so part of me wants to just mount up an orbital valve and go fully hydraulic with the steering....But another idea I saw somewhere else was using a sturdy right angle gear box...with gearing a little higher than the factory steering, so it's sturdier and much easier to turn, you just gotta turn the wheel a little more. I used a similar idea on another tractor that I built a steering set up on, Basically I just fabbed up an arm to bolt to the factory pitman arm on the spindle, It worked like a dreamed and took all the stress off the gearbox....it just doesn't turn as sharp anymore.....so lots of ideas, just not real sure. This tractor isn't even on the project list yet just compiling ideas.

Did your 4016 use the factory hydraulic pump/cooler/reservoir? How did that stuff fair?

Yes. I just installed quick disconnects and plugged into the hydraulic PTO on the 4016, and then just unplugged it when I took it off. It worked pretty well. You can see the hoses going back beside the seat in the first picture.