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What I was hoping for was a picture of the entire carburetor... would give some clues as to overall configuration and perhaps provide hints as to suitable parts or alternate carburetor.

Apologies if I wasn't clear... that can happen. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Thanks Roger, but I didn’t think my query needed it—after all, I had all of that info when I called Briggs, as well as the many other companies I contacted. All agreed with my part number/model number, and again, all said the part is “out of stock” with no estimated time of when it might come back. But...just in case:
Engine 13L332-0122-F8
Float part 798529
The carb is embossed “Nikki” and here are the numbers on it:
816906
C118642
2211
Thanks Roger.
Again, anyone had this kind of experience, and possibly able to make another float work?
I found a replacement carb on Ebay , it was a good deal and solved the issue with a NIKKI carb on a 14HP LT.
 

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Given that the missing bit is just used to hold the needle in place, you just need an approximation of what is missing, not an exact, factory looking repair. If you have the broken off bits, you may be able to melt them together using a soldering/wood burning iron or a plastic welder.(hot air $$ models)
I have been able to make repairs using an old soldering iron. Place the bits close together, and apply 'spot' heat to get them to stay without holding(less finger burns). Once semi-attached, work along the seam, melting both sides and smearing them together as you go. The iron will likely get hotter and hotter the longer it is plugged in, so take note, and unplug for a while if it seems to be getting too hot.
I think you could mess around and get the plastic to hold the needle in place well enough to function. Maybe get donor plastic from another float from another carb???
Another possible tactic would be to use some fine wire, stiff bendable type, to act as a clip in place of the plastic retainer. You could drill tiny holes in the solid pieces of the float to attach wire and make a loose clip that holds onto the narrow waist of the needle. Rube Goldberg must be in my ancestral tree.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I’ve used my small pencil iron to melt some dabs from other floats and transferred over. Some fine shaping with heat and I think I’m almost ready with it. Just need to use a needle file yet to clean up the area of the “slide”...even though I had a thin piece of sheet metal slid into the slot, the repair is still a little too rough for the needle to slide in to. Here’s hoping...
And thanks again for those good ideas.
 

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Given that the missing bit is just used to hold the needle in place, you just need an approximation of what is missing, not an exact, factory looking repair. If you have the broken off bits, you may be able to melt them together using a soldering/wood burning iron or a plastic welder.(hot air $$ models)
I have been able to make repairs using an old soldering iron. Place the bits close together, and apply 'spot' heat to get them to stay without holding(less finger burns). Once semi-attached, work along the seam, melting both sides and smearing them together as you go. The iron will likely get hotter and hotter the longer it is plugged in, so take note, and unplug for a while if it seems to be getting too hot.
I think you could mess around and get the plastic to hold the needle in place well enough to function. Maybe get donor plastic from another float from another carb???
Another possible tactic would be to use some fine wire, stiff bendable type, to act as a clip in place of the plastic retainer. You could drill tiny holes in the solid pieces of the float to attach wire and make a loose clip that holds onto the narrow waist of the needle. Rube Goldberg must be in my ancestral tree.
tom

Perhaps he could use the wire from bread bag ties or trash bags to secure the needle to the float ?..
 

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Just checked www.jackssmallengines.com carb pn 595318 listed @ $60.32 Float pn 798529 @ $21.95 Might be better to get the whole carb as the price of the float is so high. Often the new carb will make it run "like new again" especially it it has set with old gas in it. Just thinking out loud.
 

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Just checked www.jackssmallengines.com carb pn 595318 listed @ $60.32 Float pn 798529 @ $21.95 Might be better to get the whole carb as the price of the float is so high. Often the new carb will make it run "like new again" especially it it has set with old gas in it. Just thinking out loud.
Were they available? I thought that the op said he called everyone and their brother and everything was back ordered.
 

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Sounds like you have been caught up in the same trap of our "new" 2017 B&S on our splitter, which started leaking gas after less one season use. Small engine shop tried for three months to get the backordered parts or even the entire carburetor. Dead ends in every direction they searched. The story that came down was ours was a model that had just a short production window, and then production changed to a different design. So no genuine interest in warehousing parts.
Although parts were promised in maybe 2-3 months, finally decided to scrap the engine and buy another new one so we could split wood. Expensive, but that was 9 months ago and the carb still is not available.
The 3rd engine is running fine now and have one season of wood splitting with it so far.
The original B&S engine that came on this splitter when new in 1985 lasted until 2017, the second one less than 2 years, and hope we can get at least 10 out of this third one.
 

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post the ID info of your engine. Model, type, code, etc. (all the info needed to find parts for the engine) Sometimes this info is on the valve cover.

If a Clone Nikki can be found from your engine ID the clone Nikki's are very reasonable priced and I've seven seen the floats interchange to the OEM. Using the Nikki numbers from the existing carb is usually a strikeout.

Just a thought.
Have you considered taking a piece of aluminum roof flashing and playing with doing a mod bracket to the plastic float slot to hold the needle????
Aluminum roof flashing or a aluminum pop can metal is easily formed and only about .010-.012 thick so no big change in float position.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Perhaps he could use the wire from bread bag ties or trash bags to secure the needle to the float ?..
Whew! I believe that would be akin to performing surgery—I’d have to have a microscope and steadier hands to try that...haha...but good idea.
Sounds like you have been caught up in the same trap of our "new" 2017 B&S on our splitter, which started leaking gas after less one season use. Small engine shop tried for three months to get the backordered parts or even the entire carburetor. Dead ends in every direction they searched. The story that came down was ours was a model that had just a short production window, and then production changed to a different design. So no genuine interest in warehousing parts.
Although parts were promised in maybe 2-3 months, finally decided to scrap the engine and buy another new one so we could split wood. Expensive, but that was 9 months ago and the carb still is not available.
The 3rd engine is running fine now and have one season of wood splitting with it so far.
The original B&S engine that came on this splitter when new in 1985 lasted until 2017, the second one less than 2 years, and hope we can get at least 10 out of this third one.
yep...sounds like my story...ouch...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
post the ID info of your engine. Model, type, code, etc. (all the info needed to find parts for the engine) Sometimes this info is on the valve cover.


If a Clone Nikki can be found from your engine ID the clone Nikki's are very reasonable priced and I've seven seen the floats interchange to the OEM. Using the Nikki numbers from the existing carb is usually a strikeout.

Just a thought.
Have you considered taking a piece of aluminum roof flashing and playing with doing a mod bracket to the plastic float slot to hold the needle????
Aluminum roof flashing or a aluminum pop can metal is easily formed and only about .010-.012 thick so no big change in float position.
13L332-0122-F8
I keep striking out daily—having given up on a new part, I’ve been scouring folks with yards full of mowers and such, and sellers of used motors on Marketplace and such. No luck at all this far...
Tonight I finished up on trying to “weld” the float plastic, smoothing it out, and finally got it to where the needle slid back in and held. Putting it back in the carb, it seems to be a bit “sticky”. Guess I’ll see tomorrow when I give it a try...
I like your idea on the roof flashing thing—I’m so hung up on thinking it’s all so precise, that the slightest error could render it useless. Wish I had better working knowledge of how they really work...maybe they’re more forgiving than I think...:unsure:
I’d sure like to see an example of a refabbed needle holder...
Thanks again all...
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Were they available? I thought that the op said he called everyone and their brother and everything was back ordered.
Yep. Last week I saw that too. But with the experiences I’d had already, I decided to call and see. Sure enough, OUT OF STOCK, she said, and no idea of when they might get some...again, the usual “sign” on parts sites is the phrase “ships from our warehouse in 4-9 days”...finally figured out that meant they don’t have it...
 
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