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Discussion Starter #62
Mike, I bought from Amazon and it was packaged poorly and had teeth knocked off. Sent it back and they got it right the second time. I bought from this guy on e-bay and got 2 blades packaged well with tooth guards on them. Shipping wwas USPS and I got them pretty quickly. $5.75 cheaper as well.


As I said above I will sharpen with a cut off wheel on my die grinder when mine get dull like I do with drill bits. flat face the teeth until they are sharp.
 

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Mike, I bought from Amazon and it was packaged poorly and had teeth knocked off. Sent it back and they got it right the second time. I bought from this guy on e-bay and got 2 blades packaged well with tooth guards on them. Shipping wwas USPS and I got them pretty quickly. $5.75 cheaper as well.


As I said above I will sharpen with a cut off wheel on my die grinder when mine get dull like I do with drill bits. flat face the teeth until they are sharp.
I played with mine this weekend. As I said, MUCH better than the grass blade (duh!). I have a bunch of white pines. With one full throttle vertical swift WHACK, it'll knock down a 2.5" branch in a fraction of a second. Almost any autumn olive I've got is no match for the stock Stihl blade.

That said, I used the link for the eBay blade (thnx for that). Mine will be coming Thursday supposedly. I'll give a decent comparison post. I want to run a couple more tanks of gas through it with the Stihl blade so I can get a better feel for what it does before swapping it out. I've only run one full tank through at this time. Sure is handy for taking down saplings right next to trees I want to keep. There is a line for when it's better to just use a chainsaw. Maybe the Renegade will blur that line a but.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I'm burning brush again today and moved that big tree out to burn that I cut with the blue blade the other day. ~23ft tall and 5+" thick.
20200323_095610.jpg
20200323_095545.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #65
A little more renegade action so you can get a feel for its capabilities.

Went deliberately slow on the thick stuff as it binds in that position and to ensure I didn't hit the dirt.

 

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Wow, that looks insanely dangerous!

I wonder why the mfr days the blue blades shouldn't be used for anything over 1 inch diameter (per the description in your Ebay link)?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Wow, that looks insanely dangerous!

I wonder why the mfr days the blue blades shouldn't be used for anything over 1 inch diameter (per the description in your Ebay link)?

Mike
I was hoping that would make it look less scary lol. Fairly easy to control with the blade stopping on binding.

Not sure why they state that about the blade. They also recommend the silver 80T blade for heavy woody limbs and it absolutely sucks for that.
 

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I got these blades:

I have been very happy with them. Yes, they are dangerous if you are not careful. At $20 for two blades, I thought it was a really good price. They are much easier to control than the 3 finger Y blade that does work well on soft things but not so great on larger than about an inch of woody things.

In normal woodworking, more teeth gets a finer cut for cross cutting. A 40 tooth 10 inch blade is a compromise blade, works okay for coarse cross cuts and can do some ripping. Normally for brush you are only cross cutting, but getting a smooth finish cut is probably not that important. I haven't tried a 20T blade, but I am sure it would work fine. I figured with 40T even if a few were missing it would still cut well.

I use it with my FS 130 with the bike handlebar and it has plenty of power for this blade.
 

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I would not recommend these blades for trimmers with the R handle. The R handle doesn't give you enough leverage to prevent kickback from being really dangerous. How dangerous is going to depend on what is in the path of the moving blade. They cut a lot more than just grass and brush. If you are really careful and never run into kickback, it won't be an issue. But, that time where you are tired and not paying quite enough attention and something binds, things can go horribly wrong in an instant.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I’ve been finding that if my machine kicks back hard, there was so much force required to do so that the blade stops almost completely. It takes a second to spoil back up to speed.
Frogmore's FS 130 has a big 36cc motor. I think it probably does need the handlebars. As always take any safety precautions you deem necessary. My R handle FS90 doesn't need handlebars for me to control it as it does exactly like your trimmer and stops when it binds.

I do keep the brush on the left side of the blade to avoid kickback but it sometimes does occur. No problems with safety though.
 

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So with CCW rotation it will actually pull away from you, correct?
Another note anout the mild kickback I do get - the blade/head kicks back around my center of mass, and the blade stays about 4' away from my legs. When my chainsaw tries to kick back, it tends to go straight for my face.
 

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The shaft on my Husqvarna 129DJx is 5 feet long and with the 2 foot extension makes it around 7 feet long. The closest I ever cut anything is at least 3 feet away from any body part, whether cutting saplings near the ground or trimming back branches overhead. I don't use it to delimb branches off trees that have already been cut down. Binding the blade happens far more often than kickback and I immediately cut the throttle and work the blade out, usually bending the sapling to open the cut.
 

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Looking at the video, the FS90 looked underpowered to me. I have the FS130 and an FSR94. The FS130 had too much power for string/line. I hated using it that way as I was always breaking line. Years later I got the FSR94. It is a straight 2cycle and is great, when it is not at full throttle it doesn't have much torque. I don't think I have ever broken the line on it. So you can have too much power 😉.

For blowers I much prefer the 4Mix engines. I bought a BR430 (the one in that size that is a 2cycle). I hated it because of the smell. I ended up taking to back and got the BR600. I wanted to like the BR700 but it just didn't feel right at the store. I did get both the hip strap and the top strap. They should both be standard equipment. They make it much more comfortable to operate for hours and multiple tanks of gas (boy it is thirsty).
 

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Think that BR600 is thirsty? The Redmax EBZ8500 drinks twice the fuel. My buddy and I ran them side by side a few years back. He has the 8500, I have the 600.

I haven’t run the BR700 yet, but it looks like they made it to compete with the 8500 by the size of the elephant trunk tube on it.
 

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I also have a wheeled blower with a 5ish HP engine. It has a bigger tank and uses regular gas, but doesn't seem to be as thirsty.
 

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Yeah, 4 stroke stuff does seem to be a little more economical, doesn’t it. Cleaner burning and more efficient? Even my 9hp Billygoat seems to be pretty stingy with fuel. About a gallon tank lasts a few hours at least. It uses MUCH less fuel per cubic foot of air moved, just back of the bar napkin calculation. They’ll both burn a gallon of fuel in about 2.5 - 3 hours, but the billygoat moves like twice or 3 times the air.

Anyways back on topic, the mailman brought me a pretty new Renegade blue blade yesterday. This evening i’ll see if I can give it a spin. I have about 3 tanks of fuel through the Stihl Kombi KM55R with the Stihl blade at this time, so maybe I can get a fair comparison between the two.
 

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Renegade 1,000% over the Stihl. There is no comparison.
Slices through anything until the hub hits the tree. Smooth cut like a high end mitre saw. Doesn’t bounce around 1” into the cut. No smoke when cutting. Less kickback. Lighter (too thin... had to use a washer as a spacer between the nut and hub). The Stihl blade is maybe 20% thicker.
Imma see if the store will do a return on the Stihl, and demonstrate why. If they take a return I may consider buying the chainsaw attachment from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Renegade 1,000% over the Stihl. There is no comparison.
Slices through anything until the hub hits the tree. Smooth cut like a high end mitre saw. Doesn’t bounce around 1” into the cut. No smoke when cutting. Less kickback. Lighter (too thin... had to use a washer as a spacer between the nut and hub). The Stihl blade is maybe 20% thicker.
Imma see if the store will do a return on the Stihl, and demonstrate why. If they take a return I may consider buying the chainsaw attachment from them.
Those blue blades are no Joke. I won't bother buying anything else. Does the one you got have holes in the blade or is it like the one listed on ebay with no holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Looking at the video, the FS90 looked underpowered to me. I have the FS130 and an FSR94. The FS130 had too much power for string/line. I hated using it that way as I was always breaking line. Years later I got the FSR94. It is a straight 2cycle and is great, when it is not at full throttle it doesn't have much torque. I don't think I have ever broken the line on it. So you can have too much power 😉.

For blowers I much prefer the 4Mix engines. I bought a BR430 (the one in that size that is a 2cycle). I hated it because of the smell. I ended up taking to back and got the BR600. I wanted to like the BR700 but it just didn't feel right at the store. I did get both the hip strap and the top strap. They should both be standard equipment. They make it much more comfortable to operate for hours and multiple tanks of gas (boy it is thirsty).
I knew going in that a 28cc trimmer was marginal for what I wanted to do with it. Turns out I am fine with it as the power keeps it from being really dangerous and I can still cut 5" trees very well with the blue renegagde blade.

When I started this thread everyone said 2" is about all I would be able to cut but I can easily cut 5". In the The video I was very light on my cuts as I didn't want to go thru and hit the dirt. Believe me when I say my FS90 does all I want it to. No ragrets. Gnome sain?
NR.JPG
 
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