Started pulling parts, It got dark on me and the dragon skeeters came out. I made some progress, and was trying to limit the use of PB as I didn't care about broken bolts. I had to PB the brake lever in hopes of getting it off Wednesday. I have a full day tomorrow out of town and taking Wednesday off, I scored a drive belt idler for Hulk II, the 919 model didn't have this part either. Still digging down to the steering collar and sector.
Brother of Hulk II
Yea, for the lack of a good name for now, I present The Brother of Hulk II. For $150 he is in pretty good shape. I still dislike belt covers on the decks, and will see about modifying the cover on this. I checked the deck and it looks good overall. I wire brushed the ends of the cover bolts and PB'd them, all came out without breaking. Cut the old belt out and all the mandrills spin, but are really tight. Some rust pitting under the cover, but not bad. All the deck bolts ate PB'd and the deck stored. I have him up on jack stands and prepping to fire the engine some time next week. Undercarriage looks pretty good.
I am thinking on an original color restore, I'll need to see if the pin striping and labels are still available.
I have a full house again.
I am thinking on an original color restore, I'll need to see if the pin striping and labels are still available.
I have a full house again.
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I had to get rough with the brake bolt removal, If your steering bushing looks like this, it would explain broken teeth. The sector looks good. Got the steering collar off for Hulk II. Teardown is going good. The fiberglass dash on the other Craftsman looks ok, it will need a coat of paint as the fiberglass is fraying out, I may keep the AMP gauge unless someone want's it. Anyone see anything else they want, except the parts I am keeping and the sector is already claimed. Both peerless transaxles look good, not sure what I'll do with them. I can see keeping one spare, but I have not heard of one of these failing.
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That parts machine isn't and FF is it? Just a GT18?
I love that they used the good trans in these for several years after the suburban line- I wouldn't mind one of those some day, but it would have to be free- all my (tractor) money goes to suburbans
One down, and almost done with the other. Keeping the good, tossing the rest. The fiberglass dash is pure EVIL :1336:. My hands and arms are full of fibers, and I did my best to keep away from it. I'll hang on to it for a little while and see if someone want's it. Never seen a connector on a wire harness like this before. looks factory, but doesn't make sense. Second steering sector got tossed. I'll have a friend come by to collect the scrap later.
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My helper showed up and we made quick work finishing up the disassembly. I still have to put things away, and take all the tires to a shop to have dis-mounted and the rubber disposed of. There is one good 23 X 8.50 X 12 that might be sellable, All mine are 10.50's. Here is what I am keeping, and the abused trailer is holding the scrap. Now I can get back to BOH after this little detour.
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Well I learned something about the transition from the Sears SS to the Craftsman II series while tearing the parts machines down.
1. They redesigned the clutch assembly from a Idler and clutch pulley to just the clutch pulley, (I'll be adding the idler to Hulk II as the adjustment slot is still in the frame).
2. They used the same transaxle in the early Craftsman's, and just added spacers to accommodate for the wider frame. (I'll keep this one for a replacement for the Roper) I included a picture of the Roper transaxle for comparison.
3. They later modified the transaxle to eliminate the spacers. (This will be a spare for Hulk II or BOH).
I'll be looking at all the front axle parts and work on a good setup for BOH tomorrow.
1. They redesigned the clutch assembly from a Idler and clutch pulley to just the clutch pulley, (I'll be adding the idler to Hulk II as the adjustment slot is still in the frame).
2. They used the same transaxle in the early Craftsman's, and just added spacers to accommodate for the wider frame. (I'll keep this one for a replacement for the Roper) I included a picture of the Roper transaxle for comparison.
3. They later modified the transaxle to eliminate the spacers. (This will be a spare for Hulk II or BOH).
I'll be looking at all the front axle parts and work on a good setup for BOH tomorrow.
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A little under the weather this weekend so not much done....Evaluating the three sets of front end parts. Picked out the best pieces. I'll need to order new tie rod ends, not too bad at McMaster-Carr
LH 6058K242 and RH 6058K28, $4.96 each, and I'll need four total.
Also, I will need to modify the drag link with new ends. I saw a write up about how to do this but can't seem to find it. I was hoping to grab a couple pictures and see if my neighbor can weld it up for me. I'll get new ends for it too.
May spend some time making this tire tool I saw someone else post and see how well it works.
LH 6058K242 and RH 6058K28, $4.96 each, and I'll need four total.
Also, I will need to modify the drag link with new ends. I saw a write up about how to do this but can't seem to find it. I was hoping to grab a couple pictures and see if my neighbor can weld it up for me. I'll get new ends for it too.
May spend some time making this tire tool I saw someone else post and see how well it works.
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Well I built the "poor mans tire changer". I had some 3/4 threaded rod from an old wagon axle that I cut in half. Chopped up a 2X4 and tried this out. It does exert a lot of force with little effort, and the 2X4 doesn't bend like I thought it would, but the tire is still stuck fast. I used one of the worst tires figuring if it breaks free this will work as treat. I may try a different tire before giving money to a tire shop.
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larrybl.. these tools r what I use.. got them from a auto parts store way back in '75'.. the short funny shaped one is for breakin the bead ..just a few smacks with the short handled sledge is all it takes.. 5 minutes & I can have the tire off the rim..
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Talked to my neighbor about welding threaded ends on the drag link, I gave him a used set to practice on, and check the fit before doing the second one with new ends. Ordered new tie rod and drag link ends from McMaster Carr. Neighbor wanted a picture on how the drag link connects, so I mocked one up, and climbed under Hulk II. Next I decided to do something easy and add a zerk to the steering collar. This thing is made out of "undrillium" I tried three NEW bits, then 5 old/new bits, and a new step bit. All I managed to do was dull all of them. Drill press on lowest speed and oil was used. Hulk II collar came with a zerk when I ordered it around 2012. I think these are NLA now, but the two I have don't have any slop, and no zerk either.
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