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Changed lower drive belt on 2008 42" bronco. Oem belt not avaialable at lowes. Used sunbelt brand showing 90.8 inches. Tractor now creeps without pushing drive pedal. Could it be caused by new belt? Is there any adjustment tonthe drive control?

Thanks

Rob
 

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Changed lower drive belt on 2008 42" bronco. Oem belt not avaialable at lowes. Used sunbelt brand showing 90.8 inches. Tractor now creeps without pushing drive pedal. Could it be caused by new belt? Is there any adjustment tonthe drive control?

Thanks

Rob
Did you ever find what caused the creeping? Having exactly the same problem.
Did you have to replace the transmission belt or was the problem with variable pulley?
Thanks

Dave
 

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Wow... old thread revival. :ROFLMAO:

New belts are stiff, try running it in for a while and see if it calms down.
 

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No fun when they run away... Is this a change and start/test thing or do you have an hour or two on it since?

If not I'd fire it up when ready to mow and drive it like you stole it, then see if the problem persists.

BTW welcome to MTF, don't think we've met yet. 🍻
 

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No fun when they run away... Is this a change and start/test thing or do you have an hour or two on it since?

If not I'd fire it up when ready to mow and drive it like you stole it, then see if the problem persists.

BTW welcome to MTF, don't think we've met yet. 🍻
Yup, Newbie here. Thanks for the welcome and the advise. Helping out a neighbor, and he has used it since I replaced the drive belt. Think I'll pop the variable pulley off and see if it is traveling back and forth freely. Can only speculate when you can't see it happening. If I find a solution, I'll post it. Have a good one.

Dave
 

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I am having the same issue, just replaced the drive and trans belt. Had the creeping issue before but now its worse. I am also having issues with it "sticking" in forward. Have to cut the mower off to stop it. I found a You Tube video and cleaned the brake caliper pins, they looked pretty rough. Shifted fine the first time and now back to the same issue. My next effort will be to look at the linkage to the trans,

I am no mower mechanic just cannot afford to take it to a shop. Mower is a 2013 Troy Bilt Bronco that I acquired from my Father in Law a couple of years ago.

JD
 

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What kind of trans is that?..sounds like either a tight belt...or the spring for the idler pulley is not pulling the pulley back with enough strength to prevent the contact that drives the tractor
 

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I am having the same issue, just replaced the drive and trans belt. Had the creeping issue before but now its worse. I am also having issues with it "sticking" in forward. Have to cut the mower off to stop it. I found a You Tube video and cleaned the brake caliper pins, they looked pretty rough. Shifted fine the first time and now back to the same issue. My next effort will be to look at the linkage to the trans,

I am no mower mechanic just cannot afford to take it to a shop. Mower is a 2013 Troy Bilt Bronco that I acquired from my Father in Law a couple of years ago.

JD
Did you use OEM belts ?
The MTD vari drive system uses 4L or 5 L belts not A or B section belts .
If it wont sit still then the clutch is not adjusted properly so the front belt can not slip on the engine pulley
or
The rear belt tension spring is anchored to the wrong place

Or the front belt is too short
That 1/8" or whatever the silly fraction above a std full inch size is VERY important.
 

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I am having the same issue, just replaced the drive and trans belt. Had the creeping issue before but now its worse. I am also having issues with it "sticking" in forward. Have to cut the mower off to stop it. I found a You Tube video and cleaned the brake caliper pins, they looked pretty rough. Shifted fine the first time and now back to the same issue. My next effort will be to look at the linkage to the trans,

I am no mower mechanic just cannot afford to take it to a shop. Mower is a 2013 Troy Bilt Bronco that I acquired from my Father in Law a couple of years ago.

JD
I think it's the width of the belt. The length is probably fine. Third party belts may be too wide at the top of the V which may cause binding and not allow the belt to release the tension when the pedal is released. Someone else was talking about this in this thread, something about 1\8th of an inch is all it takes to make a difference. I guess original belts from troy are the way to go.
 

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Thanks guys, my plan for tomorrow is to loosen everything up and check the idlers. I used MTD belts after buying the wrong lengths and having to return them. Only took a few days to get the right ones in. I am a total newbie to riding lawn mower work so it still might be something I did. I will update in the next few days. Thanks for the advice
 

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You need to wrap your head around these mowers and once you have they are easy
They are basically a tug-o-war between the rear ( upper ) belt and the front ( lower ) belt .
Your foot on the GO pedal is the cheat, extra man of the front team
The varaible pulley is just like a set of stepped pulleys you see on bench drills

Which ever belt is tighter will push the sliding pulley up and thus be on an effectively smaller pulley

There is a return spring on the GO pedal to balance things out

On the tension arm with the 2 pulleys there is an arm that connects to the GO pulley .
This has an adjustable tie rod end for fine adjustments to compensate for wear
 
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