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I could use some help on this. As the title says, my 21hp Briggs tossed a rod and I'm trying to decide if it's worth fixing. It's one of those ohv Intek motors that I have read on here just aren't very good. The crank is gouged up pretty good where the rod used to connect. I don't want to buy a new crank. The cost is almost half a new crate motor. Is this something I could bring to a machine shop and have honed? If I do have it smoothed out how does this affect the rod where it attaches to the crank. I don't see any bearing in the part list. Is the connecting end of the rod adjustable? The piston and cylinder walls look fine. Is there anything else I should be looking for or replacing? In the last month the camshaft broke and now the piston rod. Are these common problems for these engines? I am not running it out of oil, so I am wondering if it's something else....head gasket? No loss of power.....but I'm losing parts at a pretty good clip......any advice?
 

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the rod is the bearing on briggs been like this for years
 

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If you have the crank turned you'll have to get undersized rods. Is it worth it? That's something you'll have to decide.
 

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Forgot to mention that they might not be able to turn it depending on how bad it is and if rods are available.
 

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It would help a lot if you gave the engine model number since there are single cylinder and twin cylinder 21 hp Intek B&S engines. Turn crank $50 - $75 depending on where you live. Rings $35 to $65 depending on engine and how good a shopper you are. Rod $25 to $40 depending on engine.Gasket set $30 - $50 depending on engine.

Walt Conner
 

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Per the Walter prices, low end would be about: $140 High: $240
Labor would then be added for removal, disassembly, cleaning, re-assembly, and installation if you don't do it yourself.
Most connecting rod failures are due to either lack of lubrication or exceeding recommended rpms. If the journal on the crankshaft was gouged rather than scored, it might be possible to remove the raised area around the gouge, leaving a small pit, and replace the connecting rod without having the journal turned to the next smaller undersize. The bearing on the big end of the connecting rod on most small engines is formed by the connecting rod material. There is no removable insert as used on auto & truck engines.
You might consider searching your local for-sale listings for a mower with another engine to replace yours. Sometimes mowers will have problems that make repair unattractive, while having an engine that is in good shape. Buy the mower, transplant the engine, feed the remains to a recycler or sell parts to help recover the cost.
I did not see a listing of deck size, but most 42" decks can be powered by lower horsepower engines with little problem. You can take a 7hp cut without problems, unless you are mowing very heavy growth.
tom
 

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It is junk please please send it to me!

Assuming it is a single cylinder Briggs Intek and only the rod is damaged: The problem with these engines is that the head gasket fails. The $10 head gasket is not all that difficult to change but generally people keep using them and bust the rod. That makes it a bad engine.

The big end of the rod seized to the crank and has left aluminum deposits on the crank. These can be removed with muriatic acid. Be sure to get all the aluminum off or it will seize again.

Get a new rod. Tear down and clean the engine top to bottom, and put it all back together. If the cylinder wall is in good shape there is no need to hone because the rings are already seated.

While you have the engine apart mark the flywheel with the piston 1/4" past TDC. This will make setting the valves easier.

I have seen a new procedure for torquing the head that is supposed to fix the problem with the gasket. Not sure where, maybe here. I have asked Briggs for a link to their service bulletin as my info is 2nd hand.

New head torque, 250 inch lbs in 3 steps.
Pattern, original order is black, new order is red.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry, should have mentioned it was a single cylinder Briggs. I have also been looking for used motors locally. What engines will mount to my frame? I have been told that Briggs and Koehler engines will work without drilling new holes. I was wondering how many different engines would work and what hp range I could get away with. I use this mower to cut grass and push snow. The mower is a craftsman model 917.289244 and engine model briggs331877 type 1371-b1. Thanks for any help
 

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If this is like the other craftsman's I have seen there are two sets of engine mounting holes and it should accept any vertical engine of about 11 to 25 HP.

I have sent you a message.
 

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Those engines are not known for major failures with proper maintenance but s$$t can happen. If the crank journal is scored it is dead in the water, Briggs does not offer an undersized rod and few shops are equipped to grind these small cranks.The price would scare you anyway.
A new engine is under $600, less than the price of a short block. If you do go short block watch the date code, the crank and flywheel were changed in July 2012. The engine will not run with the wrong flywheel.
 
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