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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today I picked up a used harrow for $25. It looks OK and the thing has been maintained as far as grease in the roller shaft assemblies. I hooked it to my tractor and it will not even start to cut to any depth. I put two concrete blocks on the thing and still not cutting deep, maybe an inch. Now this is on tilled ground. I put my 200 lb son on the blocks and it still wil not cut more then an inchl. Any suggestions?
 

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:wwp: If you can post a picture or two we can see if the disk has any problems. Sometimes the set is off and it needs adjusted to work.
Dave
 

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On uncut clay thats all you will get. If you keep doing that you better learn to weld. I have clay here in MI, I used to have to use it in the propperley moist soil. Too wet it pluigged up. To dry it was like cement. You have to plow the ground first. After you do it will work good with only 2 blocks. Gary
 

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Make sure the discs are angled in the right direction. If the concave side is toward the middle of the frame, then each row of discs should have the middle forward of the outside.
If the concave side faces outward, then the outside ends should be forward of the inside.
 

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Are you using it on a sleeve hitch, and I assume you are. You will not get them to cut on unturned soild like the big tractors do, I live in a sandy area, and can barly get them to cut into unturned soil.
 

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is it staying in the ground? if it is bouncing everywhere you need more weight and maybe less speed.

if it stays in teh ground but does not dig in you either are going too fast or have the blades angled wrong or need more weight.


i have never had mine dig much deeper than that though. even when used with an electric SH that put enough down force to lift the rear of the tractor they did not go very deep. with GT implements you make multiple passes to achieve the desired results.
 

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I might be wrong, but a harrow is not supposed to cut deeply, it is supposed to break up surface clods of dirt and create a smooth surface finish after plowing or other deep cultivation, not replace plowing.
 

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I borrowed my brothers before I purchased one that whent with my 3pt hitch. It would not cut on plowed ground. The problem was the tongue was on backwards which caused the disk to face the wrong way. I fliped the tongue and sharpened the disks. Still would not break up the clods. I tried various different items for wieght, nothing helped until I put an old engine block on it. It is a straight six block of about 200lbs. It cult very nicely then.

For some reason the 3pt one doesnt take as much weight to produce the same results and I have a manual lift so no extra down force.
 

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I have a brinley disk and on plowed ground with about 100lbs on it it will dig about 2 to 2 1/2". This is with disks set at the sharpest angle the settings will allow. I do have it on a sleeve hitch. Normally if using a moldboard plow you want to allow the ground to dry for a couple of days before disking, make sure that it is not being held up by the hitch. This type of disk is designed to break up already plowed or tilled soil which is what you said you had. KHodges explain it right as to the direction of the disks verse the direction of the angle that it is set at. This is the first thing I would check.
 

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Here is my disc. Don't know the brand of it. I cleaned up this old rust bucket and redone it. It was originally a pull type that I can use in that configuration. I built a sleeve hitch mount that it can be changed from pull type into the sleeve hitch mode in a couple of minutes. It isn't the best to go into the ground but the way it is made it was easy to add suitcase weights to it and down it went. Nearly spool deep. Nice job of discing. In the one pic you can see I disc the sandy sod ground (weed patch) then use the dethatcher to rake down any clods. But adding the 160 lbs to it made a big difference. Disc it once with the weights then the second time without the weights. On the John Deere 420 it has a 3-point hitch sleeve hitch adapter. Added one pic of the disc in the pull type mode. Pretty neat how it has a lever to level it out to what ever height of tractor hitch you hook to it.
 

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On my dad's farm we had a disc that we pulled behind our Case VAC and it busted up plowed furrows very well. If we put too much weight on it, it would sink to the axle and stall out the tractor. Our John Deere LA couldn't pull it at all so we used the LA to pull a tooth harrow. We would plow, disc, and tooth harrow in that order.

I wonder why the OP would want to disc tilled soil. I mean, a tiller does a more finished job than a disc does. That said, either the hitch is preventing it penetrating, or it isn't angled properly to bite in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am the OP, I had just got the disk and was testing it out. I never did get it to work to my satifaction. I realized that the disk would get covered with sod instead of the disk cutting through the sod. I looded at a disk at the farm up the road and it has some wiper type things that keep the disk clear. I am going to modify mine with the wipers for next year and see how it works.

Paul
 

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If you don't disc in sticky wet clay and don't let the discs get rusty, you don't need wipers.

Post a pic of the disc and how it's attached to the tractor. If it's a sleeve or 3pt hitch, have you verified that it's not running out of travel?
 

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i learned about micro disc-ing this year too. 1) the ground must be broken with a plow. 2) don't disc until it's dried out 3) if there's a lot of sod you need to either wait for it to dry out and/or rot OR you have to rake it out with a C-tine harrow. once you get the lumps broken up 100# will bury the disc to the axle and your garden will look like it was tilled.
 
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