My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Hoosier Daddy
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got a Husqvarna YT 2148 with a thrown-rod 21hp Vanguard V-twin and performed what seemed to be a successful 23hp Intek V-twin engine swap.

Being that the Intek I swapped in was not set-up to run the tractor's electric PTO (not a regulated charging system), I took the alternator and regulator from the original Vanguard and fitted it to my newly installed Intek engine. Pretty straight forward there... The only other thing I had to do to get everything to wire-up perfectly is to push the carb solenoid and ignition kill wires from the tractor's engine-side 6-position main connector, and push the wires from the Intek into their place.

Problem I'm having is the tractor's volt gauge shows less than zero when running, and goes further negative when I turn on the electric PTO. Everything operates fine, though that would seem to indicate it isn't charging properly. I admit to not really running it for very long to see if the battery is draining...

I did a little investigation with my meter, and do have battery voltage at the red wire on the regulator, verifying it is connected to the battery. Also, I checked the voltage across the two alternator wires, which read 18 VAC at high throttle. That seems low to me.

Admittedly, I need to read the battery terminals while the engine is running. I think I did, and it was something like 12.8V, but don't quote me on that. I'll have to check again this evening, but my next question may give reason not to bother...

I've been reading that there are "big magnet" and "small magnet" flywheels for the Intek twin. Is this true? If so, is it possible the original Intek flywheel (that I've mated with the Vanguard alternator/reg), being originally from a non-regulated system, is one of these "small magnet" units and is not making sufficient voltage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
It could be you could compare the two flywheels to see if this is what could be causing your issue I never really understood the whole concept of electronic ptos but if it's draining instead of charging the magnets might not be strong enough to supply the juice to the stator plate
 

·
Hoosier Daddy
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Battery voltage is 12.43v not running, and 12.35v running. Definitely having an issue...

The Vanguard flywheel isn't compatible with the Intek engine, though the rest of the charging system is.

What I was hoping to find is if there are two versions of the Intek flywheel. If not, I may have deeper issues.

The spec on the Intek (which is the flywheel I'm running) is model 44577 type 0263 E1 code 030428YG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
How old is the intek your running is the vanguard newer or older than the intek also I was wondering if the magnets on the vanguard flywheel are bigger than the magnets on the intek flywheel if they are you might need to find the intek version of that stator as there's 3 styles of the stator for v twins I can get the model number but I need you to verify that the magnets on the vanguard are bigger and how many there are on it need engine model as well for your intek to get stator model
 

·
Hoosier Daddy
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like I need to pull the flywheel back off and have a look... I'm fairly sure it has an insufficient magnet setup at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
If anything buying the correct stator to match the power output you need or more is a lot cheaper than buying anew flywheel atleast due to shipping as a flywheel could be cheaper it's a lot heavier to so shipping will add to its price where a stator is light so low to no shipping cost pending on what site you buy from if u can you could select from the three stator I'll post
 

·
Hoosier Daddy
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Could be a bad regulator as well I guess. Like I said, the red wire at the regulator reads battery voltage without the engine running, meaning it's properly connected to the battery.

Stator reads 18VAC across its leads at high throttle, which is low. The specs from the original engine (from the YTH2148 manual) say it needs to be 28VAC. Same manual says output from the regulator should be 16A, so I recon the alternator spec is one that would correspond to that output.

The original electrical system from the tractor is entirely intact, save for the flywheel, so the wiring has not been altered.

I do have a John Deere L135 with electric PTO and a Briggs Intek V-twin on it. I could just start swapping things until it works. Could compare the flywheels as well. It's easier to do the rounds here first than disassemble two tractors, but it looks like that's where I'm headed...

If the flywheel from the John Deere does the trick, I can use its model number to look-up the flywheel part number that I need.
 

·
Hoosier Daddy
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I took the codes off the engines, and my Intek equipped John Deere with regulated charging system and electric PTO specifies a 691053 flywheel.

The engine I put in my Husqvarna specs a 691054 flywheel to go with its original unregulated charging system. I strongly suspect I need the 691053 flywheel to make it work correctly. I could pop the one on from the John Deere to verify function before obtaining another flywheel, just to be sure. I'll let everyone know the results.

In the meantime, I need to browse for a cheap 691053 flywheel!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
I've noticed the newer engines aren't at alll like the old ones where u could take parts off 1 fix another and still be able to use it now the new engines only thing that seems to fit but just bc it fits doesn't mean it'll work is the stators you can take a stator from 1 engine compare to another and they look the same but there not go figure thanks china ruined another good company lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
GMorning D/J, Sounds like you may have more than 1 issue going on:

"Problem I'm having is the tractor's volt gauge shows less than zero when running, and goes further negative when I turn on the electric "

Despite have charging issue's, the Volt gauge should show battery voltage, Key on. Is the Volt gauge wired correctly? The fact that it reads "0" then drops further, indicates a gauge/wiring issue.

The stator should have output higher than what you are showing, at high idle. I generally see 36 vac.

I can'y comment on the Vanguard/Intek flywheel swap, but magnet size will affect amperage output, NOT Voltage, as previously stated.

The B&S manual provided in a previous post, is an excellent reference manual, clearly and well written. Take your time with it and follow directions.....It contains 'The Truth'

At this time, using a quality volt meter to verify readings. Using the other tractor is a good way to verify parts swapping, but it won't be if a part is damaged during testing.

i have other B&S Alternator charts if needed that I can forward to you, but wire and plug colors tell the story on the Briggs charging systems.

GLuck, Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,788 Posts
im just thinking but
it sounds like he has a diode in the wrong place


Problem I'm having is the tractor's volt gauge shows less than zero when running, and goes further negative when I turn on the electric "

Despite have charging issue's, the Volt gauge should show battery voltage, Key on. Is the Volt gauge wired correctly? The fact that it reads "0" then drops further, indicates a gauge/wiring issue.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top