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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Full Disclosure: I'm new to fixing things and engines in general. Bear with me.
(if you don't feel like reading skip to last paragraph)

Let me try and give you the situational breakdown quickly, lets get you up to speed. The case gasket began leaking oil so I decided to try and fix it myself. I took apart everything which i saw as getting in the way of me separating the case. I got pull it apart and... I can't do it for the life of me. This is as far as I can get:



As you can see it's about an inch and that's it, it stops. I assume the crankshaft or some gears are getting in the way of me lifting it off. Great. So in my frustration I figured, screw it. I'll working within that inch of space, get the old gasket out, slap in some rtv and call it a day. I put everything back together and thought I had beaten the system. I go to start the mower and it just turns and turns. Nothing!

:banghead3

So as it turns out, when I decided to just slap everything together I messed up the timing... Something I didn't know existed before I started my little project. So I'm back to square one.

So in short, How do I get this case off and separated from the bottom half? and when and if I do so, how do I put this thing together so it's timed and starts correctly?

:fing20: Give it to me straight!

Engine: B&S 445777 0168 E1
Full Picture:
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you'll have to remove the engine from the machine and remove the pulley(s) or clutch from the crankshaft. It is not necessary to use RTV on that gasket. Now, you can work on the engine upside down and re-establish the timing. Lubricate the oil seal and very carefully manuever it over the shoulder on the crankshaft when you reassemble it and you should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can handle the news, This is very very helpful, now when you say lubricate the oil seal, and maneuver it over the shoulder what do you mean exactly? I just want to make sure I don't make any more mistakes. Thank you!
 

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He's referring to placing the lower cover & seal back over the crankshaft at reassembly. If the crankshaft was rough upon removal of the lower plate you might want to replace it rather than risk its leaking & another tear down. Always lubricate the lips of a new seal with the lube they'll be retaining; otherwise, the seal lips will burn & fail with the same result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it, thanks for the help so far guys, I'll be working on this tomorrow. Do you think using RTV would be worse or less reliable than actually using the OEM gasket itself?
 

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Got it, thanks for the help so far guys, I'll be working on this tomorrow. Do you think using RTV would be worse or less reliable than actually using the OEM gasket itself?
yep, rtv would be worse. To my knowledge, the paper gasket is there to give the proper crankshaft end play. If you notice, when you get an engine gasket set it will have 3 or 4 different base gaskets. They all look the same, but are different thicknesses. On my own engines I am sot too concerned about end play, but when I rebuild a customers I dig out the dial indicator and spend some time getting things correct so it doesn't bite me later. This is usually a step beyond what most back yard mechanics are set up for as most cant afford or justify spending a couple hundred on tools for a one time rebuild. As far as the timing, make sure the dot on the cam gear is lined up with the dot on the crank gear. and make sure the oil slinger and oil pump are assembled correctly!
 

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While RTV is an excellent sealer, and some engines use it in place of gaskets, keep in mind that if it is used excessively (meaning you can see it) there is the potential for some of it to wind up in your oil pump inside the engine. The outcome of that is usually not pleasant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the help so far guys, I have everything back together and the engine starts. But it wants to run like crazy it starts and gets louder and louder and then I shut it off out of fear of damaging something. I'm not sure what's going on but I'm thinking I must have messed something up in the throttle linkage area, the governor rocker or something. I've been trying to look up a manual on briggs and stratton to see if I have everything linked up right but I keep getting errors. Any of you guys have a hunch?
 

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"I've been trying to look up a manual on briggs and stratton to see if I have everything linked up right but I keep getting errors. Any of you guys have a hunch? "

You should be able to download a free Service Manual for your engine at - http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/

"I dig out the dial indicator and spend some time getting things correct so it doesn't bite me later. This is usually a step beyond what most back yard mechanics are set up for as most cant afford or justify spending a couple hundred on tools for a one time rebuild."

Actually most B&S have a min. end play of .002". That is about the amount you can feel if you first "whap" the crankshaft on the end then take hold of it and pull back and forth. If you fee play, you're OK for min. While I have a dial indicator, I never use it, I can feel correct min. end play, excess is seldom a problem.

Engine is most likely racing because you did not get the governor re-installed correctly. AND you should always check "static governor" setting after disassembling and re-assembling engine.

Walt Conner
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I have been tinkering with it and haven't been able to get it right at all, not even close. There are two springs which attach to the governor rocker, but I can't find anything in the manual that indicates how they attach to the nearby plate/throttle assembly. I'm worried that turning it on and having it race for that short amount of time is dangerous. Will it damage the engine for that short amount of time?
 

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Hi Antonio,

I'm a noob at this repair myself.

I'm dealing w/ the governor issue on my B&S cause I tried to replace the same gasket without knowing all thats involved. You DO want the service manual, not the owners manual. My manual for my engine really "glosses over" (ie: skips) specific details on reinstalling the flywheel type governor, but...If you determine that you have a flywheel type governor (this is inside the crankcase/oil galley, Check out this link:

http://www.perr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8292&sid=92b4a2ef03dbdc76eb25b4188bb0409d


You can damage the engine at such high rev's (bent rods, etc).



I've gotta link for the static adjustment somewhere...ill post it for you if I find it, this info might not be for your engine but it'l give you a rough idea of what needs to happen.

if you have a flywheel governor and it was not installed correctly when you fired it up, it could be in a bunch of pieces at the bottom of the oil galley. this is what happened to me. I did determine that the screen at the bottom of the galley works though

I might listen to Walt over me though; looks like he's been here for a bit longer than me.

Good Luck !

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm thinking it's the flywheel governor because I have done everything possible to the rocker arm itself. I marked everything carefully before I took apart and everything matches up. but the rocker arm just wont go into the position it was in before I took it off. It look like I'm going to have to take it all apart again and work on the it again :fing20: Thanks for that link. Now to see if I can decipher it.

Thank You!
3rd times a charm right? Let's hope so.
 

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Remember how you said it got stuck on the initial removal? I think mine hung up a bit also.

This is what I think we should have done. When we got to the sticking point we should have put a screwdriver blade or something in there to expand the fly weights over the governor lever.

I think installation should be the reverse. Push the engine halfs close enough together so you can line up the oil pump shaft (going by memory here) and then use the screwdriver to expand the flyweights over the governor lever and continue mating the two halves.

I'm not going to get to work on my engine for a few days. Let me know if this idea (or your plan) is successful.

Good luck.

mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alright so I read over what you found in that other form, I followed the steps carefully and I know I have the flywheel governor installed correctly. I'm 90% sure that my problem now lies in the linkage up front, My throttle cable is shot/frozen and the little washer that goes in the governor arm is broken, So the link that that goes through the loop is somewhat loose.

I'm convinced that all the adjustments I need to make are external and where the linkage lies. Because if I read everything correct it seems like all the governor arm has to do when closing the case is rest on top of the governor cup on top of the flywheel.

I need a service manual, I might stop down to a local shop and see if I can order one along with the small washer that goes in the governor arm, and the throttle cable.

I think I did not reinstall the springs correctly when reinstalling the linkage. If anyone could take a picture it would work wonders in helping me out.
 

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Try searching this site for your manual.

Did you have to "expand" the flyweights over the governor lever like I thought? I have not had a chance to work on mine yet. Maybe our engines are different enough that the proceedures are not the same. I've got the 20 hp b&s on a JD L120 rider.

I know the static adjustment is important before you fire it up.

I don't think I can add any more to this untill I work on mine.

Good Luck!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did not expand the flyweights over the lever. From what I understood reading the other forum is, the flyweights expand and push the governor cup against the rocker arm of the governor. So it's meant to push up against the rocker arm, it's not connected to it per say.

Now that's not to say that somehow the adjustment of where my rocker arm is, is right. But I'm fairly certain the internal installation is correct. If I could get my hands on a service manual I could probably confirm it. I searched the forum and Briggs and Stratton only lists an operators manual and a parts list on there website.

Let me know how it goes when you work on yours!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
" You should be able to download a free Service Manual for your engine at - http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Walt Conner
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Bri...73521 Twin Cylinder OHV BRIGGS & STRATTON.pdf

Thank you, I just realized it's been there the whole time, The service manual goes over static adjustment and how the springs need to be orientated for proper adjustment. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

On a side note before I found the manual online I called a service shop and asked them if there was any way they could order a service manual for me.

The guy asks, "What are you trying to do?" So I say "I want to see how the springs and everything hook up to the governor arm and how to set the static governor." His Response, "The manual doesn't have that information. It, it just shows the parts not how to put them together." I pause "Ok, Then thanks I guess..." Guy on the other line "That's why they pay us the big bucks and send us to service classes, Bring it in we'll fix it"

Thanks buddy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Don't mean to triple post, But I do want to say thanks again to everyone for the help. I adjusted the static governor today and boom she fired up nicely. It was a proud moment. I sharpened the blades and gave her a whirl. She ran for a couple hours nicely and the lawn looks like a golf course. God I'm glad I got that taken care of. Now I'll just have to keep an eye on it and make sure nothing else goes wrong and the oil is staying in the engine. It was nice and clean today when I parked it. :)
 

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Its always nice to hear the end of the story - especially when it's a happy ending!
Good for you!!!
 

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"I've been trying to look up a manual on briggs and stratton to see if I have everything linked up right but I keep getting errors. Any of you guys have a hunch? "

You should be able to download a free Service Manual for your engine at - http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/ Walt Conner
Great tip on getting service manuals for engines...:fing32::thanku:
 
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