According to my service manual. The engine has to be disassembled to remove the plunger. There is a tappet on the inside end on the plunger that rides on a lobe on the camshaft. Here is a pic I scanned out of my manual. If you need additional diagrams, let me know. I have two giant B&S service manuals. Hope this helped, - Brad
Briggs Model 326437 Points plunger
Hi All, I am working on the Briggs 16 hp cast iron single 326437 it was running fine was adjusting the carb when suddenly it started running intermittently like the ignition switch was being turned on / off checked the spark and it was cutting in and out removed the points cover and checked the points and found the they were barely opening tried to adjust them now have no spark and have very little plunger movement what could have happened?? Is it possible to remove the plunger without braking it and not having to open the engine?
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It is possible that the plunger broke off partially inside. I would try removing the plunger, There isn't much more harm that can be done if its broken inside.Hi 73Searstractor, I was afraid that was the case, any idea why it would stop working, it move in and out but only a very small amount. The engine was running very nice and just like that it stopped working.
Try pulling it out of the sleeve. If you don't want to tear into the motor, You can convert it to magnatron ignition. B&S made those 30ci and 32ci cast iron engines from 1957 to 1988 (Believe). So you can get an electronic coil. I like points better because when they're adjusted right they have a much stronger spark. How little does the plunger move? All the plunger needs to do is open the point contacts 10 thousandths of an inch. If the points are opening then you need to replace the points and condenser. Sometimes the point surface will burn out and the engine won't run. - Brad
I would deffinately try the points first! I think a new set is only like $7. And yes, The crank case cover is under the flywheel and must be removed to pull the cam out and access the plunger. - BradHi guys, its a points engine I converted it to battery ignition as the magneto as intermittent, was running great. Per my parts manual this engine per type # and date # can not be converted to magnatron ignition, likewise I like points also believe it produces a better spark. Pulling the engine out of this tractor is a bear the engine oil pan is the front axle bolster and you have to half dissemble the tractor to remove the driveshaft.
Brad do you think if I pulled the plunger out that I could fabricate a longer replacement?
Or you maybe right about them only needing to open a bit maybe I should try a new set of points and a condenser before being too rough on the plunger. I was also wondering if removing the front pulley and the bearing cover if you could get at the plunger?
I have converted many breaker point B&S engines to magnatron for guys. I have never needed to repolarize the flywheel. Which engines are you talking about?Earlier engine can be converted to Magnetron, but the magnets on the flywheel have to be reversed. If it has the magneto under the blower housing, it can be converted. Last I knew, Briggs will do the repolarization for free if you send them the flywheel.
Ah ok, I've never tried to convert a cast iron engine. There's really no point because the points are so easy to access. I have converted tons of aluminum engines as well with no problems. - BradThe cast iron block engine's flywheels must be re-polarized to use the magnetron ignition , I put a magnetron on my ss15 for a while and never could get it to run correctly. I though it was the carb. When I went and restored it I put a new set of points and condenser in it and it runs great. I have put magnetrons on aluminum block engines with great results.
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