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Discussion Starter #1
what can I use to remove these bolts without pulling the flywheel? Briggs shows a special $30 socket, 12 or 13mm, doesn't specify. Anyone have luck with another cheaper alternative? $30 is a lot for a little socket.
 

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For a v-twin you should never need to pull the flywheel, the bolts are on the side of the engine by the starter gear. Unless you are talking about an opposed twin where one bolt is under the flywheel. I dont remeber the size of that bolt off hand (its not metric) but you can use an open end wrench and get it out without removing the flywheel. Theres just enough space under there to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There's nowhere to put the open end, its completely blocked. It's a v-twin, not opposed. Left side is wide open, right is completely blocked.
 

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"For a v-twin you should never need to pull the flywheel, the bolts are on the side of the engine by the starter gear. Unless you are talking about an opposed twin where one bolt is under the flywheel."

Don't know the answer to the "V" twin but you do NOT need to remove the flywheel for the opposed twin.

Walt Conner
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i did an opposed without removing, but there's just nowhere to fit a wrench on the v-twin, manual says special universal socket
 

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Kevin,
I know what you are talking about with the Vanguard series V-twins, but personally I do not even have a special tool to do it and have always removed the flywheel and replaced starter gears with starter in place. Those flywheels collect a lot of dust and dirt underneath anyway.
Sorry can't be of more help,
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats ok, i have a feeling its not rebuildable so it might have to come all apart regardless, I just needed the starter for my 17hp that i mow with and didn't want to take the flywheel off yet. maybe i'll just rebuild my weak starter, still cheaper than buying a $30 briggs socket
 

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I just pulled the starter on my 26-hp Briggs. I used a 5-mm allen wrench and a box-end wrench on the end for leverage, though a long Torx wrench would be a more correct tool. There was no clearance to get a socket past the starter gear assembly.

I replaced the brush holder on my starter, as the positive terminal was cracked. I'm not sure how serviceable (bushings, etc.) the starter is otherwise.
 

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Oh, great, glad you got it to work. Obviously not a very serviceable design. I saw how it was attached and thought "Great, now what?" :confused:

For what it's worth, horizontal Tecumseh engines (Snow Kings, at least) use a similarly obnoxious mounting method for the 110-V starters on them. Torx, hard to get to, and almost impossible to break loose with something like a Torx screwdriver.
 

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I'm going through the same ordeal right now. The manual says to use a T-40 star bit. I have a T-40 socket, but not screwdriver. I was thinking about taking off the heat shield at using a 1/2" swivel socket. It looks like it might fit. Has anyone had any luck rebuilding these starters? Or would it be easier to just buy a new one?
 

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I have Briggs & Stratton 20 HP OHV Platinum i/c Turbo Cool V-Twin engine with the moronic design of the starter placement or the bolts for it any way. It looks like the metal frame that the plastic shroud connects to would have to come off in order to get a normal open end or box end wrench on the right side bolt. But the bolts for the metal frame are partially under the fly wheel gear. I wish there were law suits against inconsiderate bozo companies for designing things so poorly. So is there some trick to getting this starter off? Is there a special tool just for this? Please let me know how to get this starter off. Can you get a Torx/star driver in the right side bolt with the gear throw out mechanism in the way? What size Torx/star bit is this? Is it metric or English?

Thanks!

VH
 
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