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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

12 HP Briggs 280700 series engine with the original metal impulse fuel pump. While towing a cart around today the engine sputtered and died. From the way it quit I knew it was a fuel issue. Looking at the carb I noticed the top connection on the fuel pump-which feeds the carb had pulled out of the pump. pushing it back in it started back up and I returned it to the barn with no problems. Checking the replacement cost of the pump it varies from $47-$69 depending on the supplier. I only use this unit occassionally (Roper) to pull the cart. The barbed connection to the fuel line with hose clamp has a male end which "seems" to simply push into the socket on the pump. There is plenty of room to "rube goldberg" a tiewrap (sp?) to keep it snug as it's a 90 degree fitting. After the ten minute run back to the barn there was no apparent leakage and this is obviously a very low pressure connection.

My question in: Anyone know if something broke in the fitting or if this is a "pressure/fit" connection?

Answering the obvious, the prices quoted above are not for a metal case pump, but the "new and improved" plastic variety.....:) There used to be a rebuild kit available for this pump but it was only the internals, not exterior fittings.

I'm leaning towards the rube goldberg fix as it's much cheaper ( :) ) and would know immediately if the connection let go as the engine would die.

Suggestions?

THanks,

Ev
 

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I have never had one do this and given your usage and the ridiculous price of a new one, I would be looking for a fix. Cleaning good with alcohol and putting the fitting back in with JB Weld or similar epoxy might be the way to go if it seems to work OK now.

Walt Conner
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have never had one do this and given your usage and the ridiculous price of a new one, I would be looking for a fix. Cleaning good with alcohol and putting the fitting back in with JB Weld or similar epoxy might be the way to go if it seems to work OK now.

Walt Conner
the 90 fitting is plastic and the hole seems to be aluminum-at least on the outside. I was also thinking of epoxy. My question is would JB Weld hold up in a "gas" environment? I was also thinking of "miracle glue" or equivalent, but gas is a great solvent for cleaning and disolving things....

Thanks,

Ev
 

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J-B Weld will stand up to gasoline,I use it on gas tanks that leak,and oil pans,with good results..I've fixed cracked carbs on Tecumsehs that split where you press in the tapered fuel hose fitting into the carb with it too..

J-B Waterweld Putty has been keeping the oil in my diesel trucks rotted out oil pan over a year now,with no signs of failing or seepage..you must get the pan or tank CLEAN though,sand it down to bare metal and use brake cleaner to get ALL the oil or gas film off before applying it..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi folks,

With the excellent advice from this forum, got some JDWeld and connected the fuel line to the pump. I've attached some poor quality pics as I didn't want to disassemble the tractor to get the camera far enough away to get good ones. The first one "fitting" shows the 90 fitting which seems to be a plastic body with an aluminum "probe" which goes into the pump assembly. The "pump" one shows the aluminum collar on the pump the fitting goes into. The last one "connected top view" shows everything connected via JBWeld and seems sturdy to the touch.

So, for $6.99 I have resolved the issue and learned about JBWeld and have a lotof it left for other projects.

Thanks guys,

Be well,

Ev
 

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