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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I have a Briggs and Stratton I/C Motoer Model 287707(on a Murray(Model 42813x92a) from 1994) Im having a issie with carb. Gas keeps running into the engine and doesn’t seem to stop. The carb was rebuilt and cleaned out a bunch of time(cleaned out). The Mower was having issues for a little while since it sat for some time. The person working on it finally got it going but was still having issues with the gas that kept running into the engine. There was crude that must have blocked something that kept the gas running through. We got it going finally a few weeks ago( it still needed some adjustment. Since it would run but sputter/not run smoothly. After I ran out of gas and put more in is when the problem started. And the gas issue started again. I was wondering(told it was probably the solenoid) what the solenoid did so I had a better idea. The solenoid is closed(up) when the key is not engaged. It will open(go down) when engaged. I forgot to plug the electric cable back in this last time when I tested(after draining all the oil and gas out) I would have though it would have worked right since the solenoid wasn’t open but it did the same thing. If someone could help me out and explain the idea of the solenoid it would be greatly appreciated. It would help to have some understanding of what its supposed to do. It is a frustrating thing to work on since if it doesn’t work. Your kinda done and wasted a lot of gas and some oil. Wondering if its worth it to keep working on.
 

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got to be the neddle on the flote, either its not seating and it needs replacing or the flote needs adjusting or replacing
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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needle valve seat will be the culprit. Not a easy job, if you haven't done it before. However, I did go and buy a new needle valve for a 12hp one time and it solved the problem.

If that will do the trick, then next thing to do is purchase a shut off valve.
 

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A gas line shut off should be a must for any engine with the gas tank above the carb inlet level for safety backup.

The solenoid you mention only shuts off gas thru the main metering jet, has nothing at all to do with shutting off gas from flooding the carb and getting into the engine oil.

Walt Conner
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi,
A shutoff was installed. that has saved a little gas and a lot of cleanup. Allthough it is a pain to remember. It still seems like when it runs that to much gas was coming out even when it was running(If I remember correctlly)
a Carb overhaul kit was installed part# 697241. Would that have the seat in it? Im a novice at this :)

Thanks for the info on the Solenoid that helps. Since that would have been a waste to buy.
I didn't notice any holes in the float, and it moved freelly. could the seat be put in wrong or something plugging it since its new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
is the seat that thing that the needle valve goes into. How do It take those out. Is there a special adjustment that I need to do? Still trying ot understand the whole carb :)
One more thing I didn't catch(I found my reciept) The float is new as well. Sorry I missed that one
 

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Retired Super Moderator - Deceased September 2015
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Yes the needle goes into the seat. Can't tell you how to get it out without seeing it! Someone here should know how from experience!
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Go the replace needle valve route first.....it is about $3.50 at the parts house in Nashville, for me. I have been able to get by not replacing the seat by just replacing the needle valve. You can get it by itself and not have to buy a whole carb repair kit.

The seat is a pressed fit, and requires a threaded removal (threads of a screw into the seat, then forced removal) and then a press fit of the new one. It isn't what most people would want to do unless they were fairly mechanically inclined. If not done properly, it could be a worse situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That sounds like it's a cheap thing to try. Soils it be worth tryiing even though itsanew needle valve. Do I just unscrew the needle valve or I'd
s it connected to the float some how?
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Best to take carb off the engine. Once removed, flip it over and remove the bowl. Remove the float hinge pin, and carefully lift the float straight up. While doing this, notice where the needle valve is hanging from the tabs on the underside of the float hinge area. This needs to be noted so when you put the new needle valve in place, it will go back into the seat area properly. (might mention here, to inspect the needle valve seat area for any noticeable trash) Reinstall the hinge pin, and test the new valve by blowing into the gas hose connector, lift the float, should let air flow, then stop the air flow when you release the float to let the needle valve close. Then replace the bowl, and tighten securely. If everything works out, after you tested it, I'm presuming you would notice whether you corrected the problem, as there should have been no air flow when the float was closing the needle valve, you should have a good repair. As mentioned before, be sure to buy a shutoff valve, and use it when the mower isn't in use.

Also, inspect the condition of the interior of the bowl itself. I have had bowls that had rust from the water in the gas, and I just sanded the bowl and reused the bowl. This came back to bite me in the butt on a customer of mine when I chose to not go buy a new bowl, and it rusted again and he called me a month later. I went to his house and found the rust was back and was also floating bits of rust debris around inside it. (hold carb over a clean bowl to let the gas dribble into it so you can inspect it for debris) I didn't charge him except for the new carb bowl. I ate the service call and the trip to the parts house, as well as the carb rebuild re-do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi.
THanks for everyone's help(especially Hank). I didn't have any luck, so I had to sell and break about even for what I had put into it for parts. I just didn't want to try and invest more time and money since the carb had been overhauled already exept the bowl and seat.
Thanks again, and I'm sure I will be back with a few more questions on my other engines :) (Rototiller most likely) THanks, again
 

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Thanks for reporting back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Glad I finally Was able to get to it, Sorry it took so long. In the future I will do better. I had a family memebr with health issues and basically had no time and forgot to get back on here :) I will do better in the future :)
 
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