Briggs 17HP Fuel Pump?

From what I understand, If the gas tank is under the seat of a riding mower or garden tractor then it most likely would have a fuel pump. If the gas tank is above the motor then it's usually gravity feed. If you know for sure that the two wire prong is for the solenoid then might as well hook it up.

If the gas line goes from the filter to the carb it's probably gravity as usually there's a fuel pump in between mounted on the engine shroud. "Generally" a gravity feed system has a different fuel filter than one with a pump, gravity feed filter media has larger holes if memory serves. Make sure you have the right filter for fuel system. You will have to connect 12V to the solenoid when the key is "on" or the solenoid will not allow fuel to enter the carb. The wires "coming from the engine" could b for the solenoid OR they might be the front light wiring quick disconnect. If you have a meter, easy enough to see if they're energized from the key switch or light switch. It's curious that your replacement carb has a solenoid and the old one didn't? There is a way to force the solenoid to be open all the time, maybe someone did that. Took a quick look and that engine does have a solenoid on the carb so the wiring might be for it. I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will chime in shortly.

Good luck,

Everlandfarm said:

If the gas line goes from the filter to the carb it's probably gravity as usually there's a fuel pump in between mounted on the engine shroud. "Generally" a gravity feed system has a different fuel filter than one with a pump, gravity feed filter media has larger holes if memory serves. Make sure you have the right filter for fuel system. You will have to connect 12V to the solenoid when the key is "on" or the solenoid will not allow fuel to enter the carb. The wires "coming from the engine" could b for the solenoid OR they might be the front light wiring quick disconnect. If you have a meter, easy enough to see if they're energized from the key switch or light switch. It's curious that your replacement carb has a solenoid and the old one didn't? There is a way to force the solenoid to be open all the time, maybe someone did that. Took a quick look and that engine does have a solenoid on the carb so the wiring might be for it. I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will chime in shortly.

Good luck,

Click to expand...

The carb diagram I found for the engine shows two carbs Walhpro and Nikki. Some bowls shown have a solenoid. It’s pretty clear my two wires are for connecting a solenoid, they are immediately under the carb and wouldn’t reach elsewhere.

The fuel tank sits right above the engine so there appears no fuel pump. PO may have put both wrong carb and filter. From what I’ve read, the small disc type are for fuel pump systems. Which should be used for gravity fed? The larger, clear football shaped ones?

Thanks everyone for your replies!

Well the fuel filter is not your problem. IF you used the filter intended for an engine with fuel pump then the engine would starve for fuel. Fuel running out the carb would have nothing to do with the filter anyway. Carb float needle is not seating, new carb or not. Simple fix is install a fuel line shut off valve and use it.

Walt Conner

What is the name and model model number of your machine? (tractor)

If the new carb has a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl you either have to connect 12v for a run or remove it or rig a bypass.

Might be able to remove the solenoid and use the bowl retainer nut from the old carb.

To see if you have gravity feed, just remove the fuel line at the carb and look for fuel flow out of the gas line. (using too fine a filter on a gravity fed engine will cause the engine to starve for fuel under a heavy load.

If gravity feed you should use a Briggs red filter, if fuel pump use a white filter. (you can review such on-line as to why and the micron rating)

Kinda appears that when you were messing around with your fuel lines you sent some trash to the new carb needle and seat causing the fuel to leak at the carb throat. This is a common thing when fooling around with old fuel lines. small rubber pieces and gunk is broken up up when removing/installing a old fuel line. (filter only filters the trash between it and the fuel tank)

AND also install a fuel line petcock and turn it off when the mower is being stored or not running. This petcock will also help reduce the chance of the crankcase getting flooded with gas during storage and reduce chance of a fire hazard when storing the tractor due to gas leaking from the carb/engine area onto the ground or floor of a shop.

Forest Gump said:

What is the name and model model number of your machine? (tractor)

If the new carb has a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl you either have to connect 12v for a run or remove it or rig a bypass.

Might be able to remove the solenoid and use the bowl retainer nut from the old carb.

To see if you have gravity feed, just remove the fuel line at the carb and look for fuel flow out of the gas line. (using too fine a filter on a gravity fed engine will cause the engine to starve for fuel under a heavy load.

If gravity feed you should use a Briggs red filter, if fuel pump use a white filter. (you can review such on-line as to why and the micron rating)

Kinda appears that when you were messing around with your fuel lines you sent some trash to the new carb needle and seat causing the fuel to leak at the carb throat. This is a common thing when fooling around with old fuel lines. small rubber pieces and gunk is broken up up when removing/installing a old fuel line. (filter only filters the trash between it and the fuel tank)

AND also install a fuel line petcock and turn it off when the mower is being stored or not running. This petcock will also help reduce the chance of the crankcase getting flooded with gas during storage and reduce chance of a fire hazard when storing the tractor due to gas leaking from the carb/engine area onto the ground or floor of a shop.

Click to expand...

All this makes sense. Thank you. Sears Craftsman 917 2711652. I used new fuel lines, blew out the lines with compressed air, and ran some gas through the lines before connecting to the carb. I supposed I could just swap out the bowl from the old to the new one and see how well it seats.

BillM2 said:

All this makes sense. Thank you. Sears Craftsman 917 2711652. I used new fuel lines, blew out the lines with compressed air, and ran some gas through the lines before connecting to the carb. I supposed I could just swap out the bowl from the old to the new one and see how well it seats.

Click to expand...

The needle/seat is not in the bowl.

Here is a link that will help you get an idea of how to check/clean the needle/seat. Scroll down in the carb list until you see what appears to be your carb.
With care when removing the bowl you might can re-use the bowl gasket.

Small Engine, Lawn Mower, Snowthrower Troubleshooting, Repairs and Safety

I would probably just wait until I got the new starter and then see if the engine will start and run if you have not seen the engine run previously and to get an idea if you are feeding $$'s into a sick or dead horse.. (a bad engine) Since you have a new carb just operating the engine might clear the needle seat area if you are little bit lucky. You might even try removing the solenoid or bowl nut, this will drain the carb bowl, then blow through a hose connected to the carb fuel barb to clear the seat.

You have to be careful removing the solenoid and not twist on the coil housing shell during removal or installing, use a thin wrench next to the carb bowl body. Some of the solenoids require using a thin type end ignition wrench or thin a standard wrench on a grinder. New replacement solenoids are not cheap.:tango_face_wink:

You also need to keep a heads up on them two starter bolts because they can strip out easily when being installed or sometimes when being removed. They are going into a aluminum block and one of them is easily cross threaded when trying to use a socket wrench. (if they are already stripped you will need to helicoil):tango_face_surprise

Is it a Nikki or walbro on there now? The carb is not shutting off or sealing. Nikkis have a gasket and can get pinched or not even have an o-ring where they should and leak into the throat all day long.
Somebody swapped wrong carb or listed wrong numbers in carb listing. About any of them will work but if it is right one for engine numbers it will have solenoid or not have it like old one did.
If you have a solenoid then you have to have 12v to it when cranking and key on or it won't run.
You can put bolt from old carb if it fits to eliminate it if need be or cut the tip off at many do ....ashame to ruin a good one though. They use to be 68.00!! The BIGGEST RIP OFF in mower parts...Now they are 9-13 and come with 20.00 carbs.
Ahh, the good 'new' days...kinds. Lol

Often a new carb can have a piece of plastic or a fuel line piece will get in there and hold needle valve open.
You will have to remove bowl and take off float pin and float and needle and blow out seat and wipe off tip. I use q-tip in seat but MAKE SURE no fuzz gets left behind. I use carb spray then air after that.

If you see ANY black rubbery specks....replace the fuel line all the way from gas tank.