Worn cylinder and high oil level. I can set my watch by my 816S doing the same thing. If I top the oil to Full and then crank and warm up for about 3-4 minutes at mid throttle and then go to mowing.. it will do it almost every time. 30-45 seconds and it clears up, eats the oil, and we keep going. I have a new block for mine just haven't gotten around to building it yet. Pull the air filter and you'll more than likely see the oil in there. It is pushing it through the breather by the valves, into the intake, and eating it. The thing about it is, as worn as the cylinder is in my block, it still makes good power. It is no spring chicken, but it pulls the 50" deck...
Briggs 16hp single- intermittent smoke
I started up my used 16hp single Briggs engine on my 8162 yesterday. It smoked a touch on start up and ran OK. After about 2 minutes at WOT it started belching out gobs of blue smoke and had a loss of power. It was most impressive the amount of smoke it produced. It was like the Blitz Fogger on my father's SC.
I decided to let it run and then it stopped smoking after a minute and ran just fine. I started it again today and it did the same thing. I am thinking the problem is a cracked piston. Once it thoroughly heats up, the crack closes and it stops burning oil. Does that seem reasonable?
Maybe something with the crankcase ventilation system?
Is there anything else it could be?
Richard
I decided to let it run and then it stopped smoking after a minute and ran just fine. I started it again today and it did the same thing. I am thinking the problem is a cracked piston. Once it thoroughly heats up, the crack closes and it stops burning oil. Does that seem reasonable?
Maybe something with the crankcase ventilation system?
Is there anything else it could be?
Richard
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For what it is worth.. I have put probably 70 hours on this motor (hard hours) and not really experienced much issue other than killing air filters. I buy them for ~$4.00 though so I don't worry. The tractor still runs and moves so it's not an issue and I have never experienced a "No Start" situation. One thing that helped slow it down was a new set of points set correctly which ultimately affects the timing. Making sure they were gapped correctly helped a bit.
I love my Onans but the both of the Briggs have been solid performers for both dad and me. If you pull the crankcase breather out of the carb, be sure to seal the breather well. You could put an angle cut on a piece of tubing and install it into the header pipe and hook the crank case breather to it. That would pull a vacuum on the crank case and probably eliminate any chance of pressure if you want to get that carried away. I just let it push oil til it's happy and note that spot on the dipstick. Then I never fill above that and don't worry. I also run full synthetic in it too so 3oz low isn't the worst thing in the world.
I haven't pulled mine down fully just the head off and I have measured .024" taper from top of bore to top of piston at BDC. I doubt rings will fix it. I need a sleeve, piston, rings. Hopefully yours isn't that bad Richard but I seriously doubt it is much better. These engines run well terribly worn out and when you get smoke, etc it is about over.
You need an Onan single to go with all your Onans. Would kind of round out the fleet!
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