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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok. So I’ve been working on this Toro Timecutter Z4220 for a while now. I diagnosed that the right side transmission went bad. I bought a brand new replacement part ($$$$$) and finished the install this morning. I had the unit up on jack stands with the wheels off to perform the neautral position test. My right side (the brand new unit) does not rotate in any direction. My left operates as normal. This is the same symptom I had prior to disassembly and purchase of the trans. The belt is run correctly (I believe) as the left operates as it should. My controls appear to be correctly hooked up. The free wheeling levers are in the right place. When I move the levers, I can see the actuator on the trans move as it should. I can’t figure out what is causing this and am now very worried that I spent a lot of $$ unnecessarily. Can someone with a bit of experience on these things give me some advice? I’m currently at a bit of a loss. Thanks in advance for any guidance.
 

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I moved this to the Zero Turn forum instead of the Toro Lawn and Garden Tractor Forum. You will more likely get answers from zero turn knowledgeable members here.
 

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Is there an air bleed procedure in the trans or machine manual that needs to be followed? Some trans' have peculiar air pockets that have to be bled out of the system in a certain proscribed way. Hoping this is all it is since it is somehow doubtful that a new trans will have the same issue as the old trans..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There is a purge process in the manual but that appears to be for any time the fluid is changed. This is a brand new unit, sealed, so I didn’t think it was necessary. The problem with it is that the fill hole is blocked by the chassis (wonderful design) so to do this, I would literally need to remove the trans each time. Maybe I could drill an access hole. I will try it as I go through the steps of troubleshooting. I was hoping it would be something less involved but it is what it is. I’m still open to other suggestions but appreciate your thoughts and input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Funny you ask that....I literally 30 minutes ago just sent an email to the Company I purchased it from asking that same question. I was under the impression it was there and didn’t open it up to check so that I didn’t add air to the system. I will let you know what they say. If that’s it, I’ll be kicking myself for not checking but also happy that it is the problem. Can it really be that easy? We’ll see. Will let you know. Thanks for your input and time.
fingers crossed.
 

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Most shipping firms will not allow loose fluids in shipped components unless they are non flammable and hermetically sealed. Same with battery powered equipment like electric lawn mowers. There was a major airline shipping fire several years ago attributed to shipped mowers with batteries installed that shorted and caught fire. I don't recall if it was in air or on ground incident.

I would be surprised if the trans has anything in it, and also just as surprised that there isn't some warning about it in the manual. But then, not much surprises me anymore.
 

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By the way, don't run that trans until you verify that there is correct fluid in it.
 

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Also i am sure that in the shipping process, even if it was shipped with fluid in it, what position did the unit spend most of its time.

If it spent most of its time up side down, most likely air will be where it should not be, and fluid will be where it is not supposed to be.
Just because it is now right side up, that may or may not require bleeding the unit to get everything where it is supposed to be.

I remember that flight with the batteries that caught fire, if I remember right it was in flight over the Everglades and all souls on board were lost.
 

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There is a federal law that all batteries go by ground transport now, and have to be labeled in a easy to see way. Also most new power train items are to be shipped without fluids until placed in equipment. Only exception is vehicles (trains have special cars for those from plants to near destination). By ship, the vehicles only have a certain amount of fuel (separate tank that gets removed) to get them into the ship from the waiting yard, batteries are disconnected once on board.
 

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'81 Gravely tractor, 50's 60's 70's 80's 90's Gravely tractors Various Honda Power equipment
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Almost every transmission is shipped 'Dry', meaning without oil. You have to check and add the oil before installation.
There should be warning labels on them stating about adding oil before installation and usage. A good manufacturer will do that by adding a warning label to them.
If you ran it without oil like it appears you did, you will be purchasing another new transmission because it will be ruined within minutes if ran without oil from new or at any time.
That is how quickly they can be destroyed by running 'Dry'. The tiny pistons and cylinder bores in the pumps and motors spin very fast and the oil is the most critical thing by far in them.
The materials/metals they are made with are not super high quality and the clearances of fitment in them are extremely close/tight that the slightest wear will cause failure of them.
About the only oil in them is normally assembly lube oil and the 'Test Oil' residue from the factory to make sure it operates, then it is drained out for shipment because it is considered 'Hazardous Material' for shipment.
The shipping companies don't want to take a chance of anything leaking from them during shipment that they would have to pay a 'Clean-up' fee for if anything would ever leak from them, plus the extremely expensive fines they would have to pay for because of a leakage.
If it was shipped with oil in it, you will be lucky and just have to follow the proper 'Bleeding' procedures for it before trying to begin operation with it, but play it safe and remove it and check to see if anything is in it first before doing anything else with it. That should have been done right away when it was first removed from the shipping container/box.
 

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There may be a difference in what is shipped as a completed machine versus parts and assemblies that contain oils.
JD may ship from their assembly plants to their dealers with oils and fluids included. I'd guess that very few of their machines are shipped by air cargo unless they are properly drained to meet air cargo regs.

Small parts and assemblies are often air freighted, and so subject to the liquids and hazard regs, thus more likely they are drained for shipment.

Getting back to your situation, highly recommend confirming correct fluid level and performing any purge procedures before attempting to run the trans.

Hope it just needs a good burping, and your baby will be happy again!!
 

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....I bought a brand new replacement part ($$$$$) and finished the install this morning. I had the unit up on jack stands with the wheels off to perform the neautral position test. My right side (the brand new unit) does not rotate in any direction. My left operates as normal. This is the same symptom I had prior to disassembly and purchase of the trans. The belt is run correctly (I believe) as the left operates as it should. My controls appear to be correctly hooked up. The free wheeling levers are in the right place. When I move the levers, I can see the actuator on the trans move as it should.
This line is interesting. Your old transmission stopped working suddenly?... is it dry / out of oil?.... you mention freewheel lever is in the right place, but question: if the freewheel lever is not hard-connected to anything on the transmssion.... in that it only "pushes on a pin" in the transmission, and when the lever is pulled back the pin is no longer pushed, and the pin is supposed to spring-back by itself, but doesn't due to friction etc.... this may cause an issue. Had this very thing happen on my 455 tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update...it was shipped with oil in it so that isn’t the problem. I am out of town for a few days so it will be Sunday before I work on burping the air out of it. Still not sure what it could be other than that. Hope the company i purchased this from will stand by their products in case there really is an issue. I’m a bit more worried now. I’ll update the group in a few days. Thank you all for your input and thoughts.
 

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'81 Gravely tractor, 50's 60's 70's 80's 90's Gravely tractors Various Honda Power equipment
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You might be lucky and just have to 'Burp' it.
Usually I just set it to the 'Release' position like you are going to push the tractor around to move it.
Run the engine and slowly move the levers forward and reverse 6 times back and forth, then engage the release lever and repeat the procedure. That might take care of it, but you should check the oil level first to make sure there is enough in it before you do that.
They usually use 20W50 oil in them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That’s the process outlined in the Hydro Gear service manual. Fingers crossed for Sunday. Thank you all! Updates will follow.
 

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That’s the process outlined in the Hydro Gear service manual. Fingers crossed for Sunday. Thank you all! Updates will follow.
The bleeding process for hydro transmissions can take more or less time depending on design, and if there is a charge pump. My L120 took several long minutes of run time and fwd/rev actuations before it finally purged air out and started working after an oil change....
 
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