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Discussion Starter #1
If I could get some input on box blades you have, good or bad....
I don't have 3 point hitch just a sleeve hitch.
I've been looking but the ones for my tractor look real light weights. Do they work?
 

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Michael
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They are not as heavy as the 3point big brothers but plenty heavy for behind a garden tractor. Having said that, I broke mine a year or to ago right where it is welded to the hitch.

I rewelded it and haven’t had a problem since. I decided I need a wider one for the projects I have planned so I picked up a second one on CL for cheap and I’m widening mine to 54”. Just started it this morning.

I will need to add a piece of flat stock across the bottom yet but it should work well although I could potentially scrape enough dirt into it to stop the tractor in its tracks.


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Michael
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Mine is Brinley, but I didn’t pick that brand for any reason other than I found them used on CL


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Michael
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I have the 2 ends welded on, still need to add the flat stock across the bottom. Debating on adding a piece of angle across the top as the extra length may cause issues.



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Discussion Starter #6
Are you going for back blade or box blade. The box would add support to the extensions, or a strap across the welds say 6 or 7in. up with the bottom edge with the bottom edge. (I've always had a thing for over build)

I've started looking at used back blades(seem to more plentiful than than the box blades) This is were I get into trouble THINKING I could box it and add adjustable bar for the digger height.
Thanks for taking time, and the pics......
Would like to see finish product.
 

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Michael
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Are you going for back blade or box blade. The box would add support to the extensions, or a strap across the welds say 6 or 7in. up with the bottom edge with the bottom edge. (I've always had a thing for over build)

I've started looking at used back blades(seem to more plentiful than than the box blades) This is were I get into trouble THINKING I could box it and add adjustable bar for the digger height.
Thanks for taking time, and the pics......
Would like to see finish product.
Mine is a box blade. You can see the holes in the pics and the ends are just bolted on.
 

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Avoid the Agri-Fab. I have one and it has been welded and braced up every which way due to weakness. People say the Brinly is better
 

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If I could get some input on box blades you have, good or bad....
I don't have 3 point hitch just a sleeve hitch.
I've been looking but the ones for my tractor look real light weights. Do they work?
Brinly is a good choice for the sleeve hitch and it works well.
 

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Michael
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2,915 Posts
Are you going for back blade or box blade. The box would add support to the extensions, or a strap across the welds say 6 or 7in. up with the bottom edge with the bottom edge. (I've always had a thing for over build)



I've started looking at used back blades(seem to more plentiful than than the box blades) This is were I get into trouble THINKING I could box it and add adjustable bar for the digger height.

Thanks for taking time, and the pics......

Would like to see finish product.


I finished welding on the blade itself but still need to add the sides and tooth bar needs to be lengthened. I also modified the back of my Jacobsen to accept my integral hitch from my JD



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Michael
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Well here is the “finished” product. I say that but I already see some things that will need changing and I haven’t even used it yet.



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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks for the follow up.... It looks great. I've been looking for a used one (Brinley), but the new ones aren't to bad Amazon 185 or so free shipping.
Been staring and staring at last pic to see what changes might be needed. Only thing I can spot that isn't my driveway......
Moving up front the Tractor has got to be your pride and joy. SWEEEEEET!!!!

This my project, and the tractor that will be using the box blade. I just got it.
 

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Michael
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Thanks for the follow up.... It looks great. I've been looking for a used one (Brinley), but the new ones aren't to bad Amazon 185 or so free shipping.

Been staring and staring at last pic to see what changes might be needed. Only thing I can spot that isn't my driveway......

Moving up front the Tractor has got to be your pride and joy. SWEEEEEET!!!!



This my project, and the tractor that will be using the box blade. I just got it.


Well I still need to get the tooth bar welded together and mounted and the wheels that I mounted on the back to help keep it from digging in too deep need to get mounted differently because I can’t keep them running straight.

I had one box blade that I bought 7 or 8 years ago lightly used for $75 and then found the second one to make it wider this summer for $50. Not sure how well it will pull it with a load of dirt yet.

That tractor was a basket case when I bought it and took a while to put it back together. I had it all done in a few months but on the maiden voyage I broke the steering box so I promptly tore it back apart and added power steering from a John Deere 318. I’ll have to look around and see if I can find the pictures of when I first bought it.


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Michael
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These were the sellers pictures when I first bought it. And to think...I almost passed it over.


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Discussion Starter #16
WOW!!! I guess I might of thought twice seeing that, the FEL would of been the tie breaker. and half of the refurbish was already done (tear down).... It came out beautiful. Did you do a rebuild thread? I really enjoy following rebuilds.

Could you do a common axle a little pivot/support frame to set wheel height/depth of cut. I keep scrolling up to look at the and I stop at the "BEFORE PICS" WOW....

While I wait for the box blade I've been trying to figure out how to do the winter chores. I basically got this tractor for the plow. I do a couple of driveways that are paved, the rest are gravel. I run the blower shoes about 1/4 in.clearance, but that leaves a build up on the pavement. I have a 90's Murray GT for the blower, I guess I could put the plow on Murray 39003(my mower tractor) that would leave this one empty for tear down...
 

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Michael
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WOW!!! I guess I might of thought twice seeing that, the FEL would of been the tie breaker. and half of the refurbish was already done (tear down).... It came out beautiful. Did you do a rebuild thread? I really enjoy following rebuilds.



Could you do a common axle a little pivot/support frame to set wheel height/depth of cut. I keep scrolling up to look at the and I stop at the "BEFORE PICS" WOW....



While I wait for the box blade I've been trying to figure out how to do the winter chores. I basically got this tractor for the plow. I do a couple of driveways that are paved, the rest are gravel. I run the blower shoes about 1/4 in.clearance, but that leaves a build up on the pavement. I have a 90's Murray GT for the blower, I guess I could put the plow on Murray 39003(my mower tractor) that would leave this one empty for tear down...

This was my thread, there were several people on here that helped me decide.

Found a loader, maybe
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=80748&share_tid=1178777&url=https://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=1178777&share_type=t

I finished the tooth bar today, pictures aren’t the greatest. Being as long as it is it may deflect a bit in the middle but we will see.




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Thanks for the follow up.... It looks great. I've been looking for a used one (Brinley), but the new ones aren't to bad Amazon 185 or so free shipping.
Been staring and staring at last pic to see what changes might be needed. Only thing I can spot that isn't my driveway......
Moving up front the Tractor has got to be your pride and joy. SWEEEEEET!!!!

This my project, and the tractor that will be using the box blade. I just got it.
If you are thinking about a grader blade for your driveway, consider something like this. I have watched a guy use one of these for several years and it works way better than a back blade or box blade for smoothing gravel. One or two passes and you're done. it floats rather than digging in and will cut high spots and fill low spots.
 

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I've owned box blades for garden tractor use since almost 55 years ago. The Brinley hasn't changed since conception. The Brinley is the correct width for small lawn/garden tractors that use sleeve hitches, especially sleeve hitches that are Armstrong powered. However, a sleeve hitch is by design supposed to float, and in other words there is no down force to the blade. Snowplowdog has done a great job with the Brinley above, nice work and something to be proud of. My only thought would be to lose the wheels as they're not needed and will only get in the way. For a rake, yes, but for the blade, no. The nicest part of the widening project is the weight carrier, being that weight is the #1 factor for proper performance.

When I bought my X580 I still used my good old Brinley, which other than my rake I have found to be one of my more useful tools. When I bought my X738 the Brinley was modified for use with a 3 point hitch, and then modified more with the purchase of a low cost blade advertised for UTV use. I got over 40 years out of the Brinley and it owes me nothing. It was $49 at Sears back then, and it's done a whole lot more than $49 worth of real work.

And, if you own a stock Brinley you can use a pair of John Deere suitcase weights to increase weight by simply putting them on the blade next to the drag link.

Most people overlook ATV/UTV implements, which are usually designed to fit a 2" receiver hitch. Anyone with a sleeve hitch can adapt these implements with a sleeve hitch adapter or the purchase of some 2" square tube. The links below are examples;

https://www.motoalliance.com/all-products/impact-implements/pro-implements

https://heavyhitch.com/?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=1444939331&utm_content=350483225685_c_1t1&utm_term=heavy hitch&gclid=CjwKCAjwtO7qBRBQEiwAl5WC2236YhWqV3X_-8XojLTrRI-HpsHokFQoixjB0JP2EBFd7h--B4qj6hoCZDkQAvD_BwE
 
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