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Discussion Starter #1
I've been thinking about what would be the most useful first attachment for a MF GC2400.

I did not order a ballast box thinking I would get a Heavy-Hitch or Omni-Hitch. My first priority is ballast for use with the FEL. In addition, my wife wants a garden. The location she wants it is where we had 3 spruce trees ~14-18" diameter. The stumps are still there, and I have no intention of trying to pull them out. I plan to rent a stump grinder, and then I thought a ripper would be useful for loosening up the soil and pulling up some of the smaller roots. Lastly, I want a hitch for towing a trailer.

After reading many threads, I am wondering if a box blade is the way to go.

A good quality 4ft BB should weight ~300 lbs. Probably gives similar ballasting to a heavy/omni hitch because of the weight distribution. If I lowered just one tooth, it would act as a ripper. I am not planning on going very deep, just a few inches.

A BB doesn't have a receiver hitch, but I have seen several threads where people have welded on their own. Seems easy enough to do, and I have a buddy who is a good welder!

Seems like the cost is gong to be similar, maybe even a bit cheaper for a box blade when you add in the fact that I would need to buy all the weights for a HH as well.

Long term, the BB seems like a more useful tool for me. As I have plans for bringing in some top soil to level out the back corner of the yard. I've also seen people using it for pushing snow etc.

Thoughts? Is my logic good? If so, what are the good quality brands of BBs?
 

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I would say go with the box blade. I think you'll end up using some other technique to remove roots, like a subsoiler, but the box blade is a very handy implement to have around. By the way, the subsoiler will be a very useful tool as well.
 

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Sounds, to me, like you're on the right track. Box blades are very handy to have around. My only suggestion is to get one that's compatible with a quick hitch (even if you don't have one right now).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Both Heavy Hitch and Omni Hitch offer a subsoiler attachment as an add on. As I understand, they are nothing more than a single ripper from a box blade, except that they are designed to go deeper, probably too deep for the size tractor! Would a box blade with only one ripper lowered down be effectively the same device (limited depth of course)?




I would say go with the box blade. I think you'll end up using some other technique to remove roots, like a subsoiler, but the box blade is a very handy implement to have around. By the way, the subsoiler will be a very useful tool as well.
 

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I have a 4' foot United BB from Everything Attachments and it works very well. It probably weighs 300+ lbs. so I use it for ballast with my FEL. It has 4 rippers which will probably be typical for a 4 foot unit so if you lower only one it will be off set from the center of the tractor. I'm not sure you will get the results you're after and it probably isn't a good idea to side load the 3 point arms. Watch the video at Everything Attachments to see how it's used but it takes alot of practice to get the results they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good point about loading off center on the BB. I have seen some models with only 3 rippers, which would put one in the middle, but I assumed these were lower quality units!

I suppose I could lower 2 of the 4, but that would make it more difficult to pull too.

It has 4 rippers which will probably be typical for a 4 foot unit so if you lower only one it will be off set from the center of the tractor. I'm not sure you will get the results you're after and it probably isn't a good idea to side load the 3 point arms.
 

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Both Heavy Hitch and Omni Hitch offer a subsoiler attachment as an add on. As I understand, they are nothing more than a single ripper from a box blade, except that they are designed to go deeper, probably too deep for the size tractor! Would a box blade with only one ripper lowered down be effectively the same device (limited depth of course)?
I had a GC2400 and used our ripper attachment numerous times as far down as it would go and it had no trouble whatsoever pulling it. You'll be amazed how much power these small tractors have. As for the box blade, probably a good first tool, but don't expect it to do everything you want as a trailer mover or ballast box. Every tool has its purpose and trying to use them for something other than their intended use can cause damage or injury. Using a ripper alone would make short work of removing the leftover roots. Your tractor doesn't have draft control, so it would be rather difficult to keep a box blade up while still trying to use a tooth to rip and not pile up dirt besides. Also, when using your FEL, if you'll be in any tight quarters, you'll wish you had something closer to the tractor for ballast. I know the first time I backed into the side of our house I wished I did!:trink40: Just my 2 cents. Whatever way you go, it's not going to be the last tool purchase you make:fing32:
 

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Both Heavy Hitch and Omni Hitch offer a subsoiler attachment as an add on. As I understand, they are nothing more than a single ripper from a box blade, except that they are designed to go deeper, probably too deep for the size tractor! Would a box blade with only one ripper lowered down be effectively the same device (limited depth of course)?
this has already been answered and the short answer is no, a box blade with one ripper down won't work as well as a ripper, subsoiler, or whatever you want to call it. I can pull my subsoiler as deep as it'll go in hard clay, probably 16 inches deep. It works great for pulling direct bury cable, pipe, etc. a large root, say 4 inches diameter will stop you dead though, so don't expect to do much root removal with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your tractor doesn't have draft control, so it would be rather difficult to keep a box blade up while still trying to use a tooth to rip and not pile up dirt besides.
This is probably the most compelling reason why a HH or OH would be better choice for the tasks I need.

You are associated with Heavy-Hitch? If so, I posted a couple questions over in the HH vendor specific forum. When you get a chance, can you swing over there and take a look.
 

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This is probably the most compelling reason why a HH or OH would be better choice for the tasks I need.

You are associated with Heavy-Hitch? If so, I posted a couple questions over in the HH vendor specific forum. When you get a chance, can you swing over there and take a look.
Yes, I am the owner. Response posted:thThumbsU
 

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I could not justify the cost of a HH for something I only need 2X a year, though if I found a used one, I'd jump on it!

I did find this on ebay and was thinking of welding on a plate to it will hold suitcase weights . At $70 including shipping, its the same price as a Drawbar before I add a drawbar lock.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Point-Receiver-Hitch-Catagory-1-Trailer-Tow-Hitch-HD-/131134405098?pt=US_Heavy_Equipment_Attachments&hash=item1e883839ea
I purchased an adapter like this off e-bay as well. It has been very useful. There are 3 or 4 different designs out there. Mine resembles the basica HH design more than the one in this add and cost about $80 including shipping. I had planned on building my own, but for that price it wasn't worth my time. I was better off buying it and adding what ever modifications that I wanted for it.

My moldboard plow fits a clevis hitch, so I built an adapter for it that will allow it to fit a 2" reciever. I built my rear blade to also fit a 2" reciever. I had built a 48" chisel plow that fit a clevis hitch, but I cut the front off of it and now the 2" sq tubing that I used fits the reciever quite well. I have also drawn up plans for adding additional reciever tubes to it that will allow me to install a very stable cary all that is well suited for transporting 55 gal drums full of fuel. Building a sub-soiler that fits a 2" hitch would be very easy. If you have a welder handy, the adapter can prove to be very versitile, and at $80 it still leaves plenty of money to guy buy (or build) a box blade.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
 

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I purchased an adapter like this off e-bay as well. It has been very useful. There are 3 or 4 different designs out there. Mine resembles the basica HH design more than the one in this add and cost about $80 including shipping. I had planned on building my own, but for that price it wasn't worth my time. I was better off buying it and adding what ever modifications that I wanted for it.

My moldboard plow fits a clevis hitch, so I built an adapter for it that will allow it to fit a 2" reciever. I built my rear blade to also fit a 2" reciever. I had built a 48" chisel plow that fit a clevis hitch, but I cut the front off of it and now the 2" sq tubing that I used fits the reciever quite well. I have also drawn up plans for adding additional reciever tubes to it that will allow me to install a very stable cary all that is well suited for transporting 55 gal drums full of fuel. Building a sub-soiler that fits a 2" hitch would be very easy. If you have a welder handy, the adapter can prove to be very versitile, and at $80 it still leaves plenty of money to guy buy (or build) a box blade.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
You have pictures of your hitch Mark?
Did you modify it like I am thinking, or bought it as is?
 

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Here's a like to one that is identical to what I purchased.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Point-Receiver-Hitch-HD-Catagory-1-Tractor-Tow-Hitch-/131134405091?pt=US_Heavy_Equipment_Attachments&hash=item1e883839e3#ht_248wt_868

I have not added a plate to it, but it would not be hard to do. I don't currently need extra weight in the rear end (no FEL). Since I used 2" sq tubing to build most of my implements, this adapter was the quickest, easiest way to make them usefull with my Cat 1 hitch. I haven't made any modifications to the hitch. The tractor is currently down and I'm trying to find time to fix it (hydraulic issue). I think I have most of the parts located to get it back up and going. I'm planing on building a 6' blade for the front end, and when I do I plan on attaching it to the tractor using a pair of home made 2" reciever tubes. I will add 2 more tubes to my hitch at that point that have the same spacing so that as I build implements for the front end, they can also be attached to my rear hitch whether I'm going to use them that way, or just transport them.
 

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Here's a like to one that is identical to what I purchased.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Point-Receiver-Hitch-HD-Catagory-1-Tractor-Tow-Hitch-/131134405091?pt=US_Heavy_Equipment_Attachments&hash=item1e883839e3#ht_248wt_868

I have not added a plate to it, but it would not be hard to do. I don't currently need extra weight in the rear end (no FEL). Since I used 2" sq tubing to build most of my implements, this adapter was the quickest, easiest way to make them usefull with my Cat 1 hitch. I haven't made any modifications to the hitch. The tractor is currently down and I'm trying to find time to fix it (hydraulic issue). I think I have most of the parts located to get it back up and going. I'm planing on building a 6' blade for the front end, and when I do I plan on attaching it to the tractor using a pair of home made 2" reciever tubes. I will add 2 more tubes to my hitch at that point that have the same spacing so that as I build implements for the front end, they can also be attached to my rear hitch whether I'm going to use them that way, or just transport them.
OK, thanks...this is the one I was looking at and thought it would not be hard to build onto that thick plate so I can hang suitcase weights off it.
 

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You may also be able to find some short pieces of 3" angle that would work well for hanging the weights. Either way it would be an easy modification to make to just about any of the designs.

I choose mine because the vertical tube gives me a place to drop in another hitch up high which would be handy for lifting one end of a log and skidding it out of the woods. I also want to build a small boom for it that I can use to transport game from the truck back the shop where it gets skinned, quartered, and stuck into the cooler for a day or two before processing. The yard is often too soft in the fall to drive the truck back to the shop.
 
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