My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just got this cub cadet 127 yesterday. mowed my lawn with it today and noticed that the hydro lever is fairly loose and makes it hard to find a good speed. and also it accelerates on its own once in awhile when hitting bumps or going down hill. the actual lever moves when this happens. does anyone know what i can do to cure this?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
If you look under your dash, between the console and the engine, there is a small collar that you can tighten up to put drag on the shaft that the hydro lever is attached to. Put just enough drag on it to hold it, not enough to make it difficult to move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
What Pete said I also had to do too. I think it's something like a 1 1/16th cut off open end wrench to slide down and tighten up the collar. You actually "pull" down on the F/R lever to tighten the tension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Take out the battery and take your time to make a tool. Not so tight that it will not return to centered when you step on the brake,check that as you tighten. It should return to centered from both forward and reverse,or close to it. GSS-1404 is the service manual for that series,big section on the hydro and most anything else you might get into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
you should have at least 8lbs..manual says 10lbs i think..use a strain guage to measure..you can hold the nut with a smallish channel locks if you dont wanna make the tool...your 127 looks brand new..i could never find em in that shape...always cheapo junkers..good buy..after you adjust everything you will be happy for years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
you should have at least 8lbs..manual says 10lbs i think..use a strain guage to measure..you can hold the nut with a smallish channel locks if you dont wanna make the tool...your 127 looks brand new..i could never find em in that shape...always cheapo junkers..good buy..after you adjust everything you will be happy for years
wow 8-10 pounds, it maybe has a few pounds right now, moves with no effort, ha it moves on its own now. im glad this is a common issue with a fairly easy fix. was hoping it was nothing too serious, that would have been a downer. and thanks for the comment on it, the guy did a nice job and i hope it lasts as long as it would if it was new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
he should have addressed the hydro and the lever when he was restoring it. Those are REAL common issues that eventually happens to everyone of them. Mine would actually "fall" out of neutral into reverse.

To fix the lurch problem you do need to take the rear end out (un-couple the tractor). It's not a big deal, but it's easier to part with 2 people. The Service manual covers dissemble and re-connection in good detail and steps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
the "lurch" is probably worn trunion..if your super lucky it will just be a broken trunion spring...there are tons of posts on how to weld up your trunion....yea ya gotta split the tractor..many here can help and have provided links and photos...good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
ya, I've got a bunch of photos... I've been restoring my 127 since I got it. You could/can take it apart by yourself, just make sure you've got a jack to help hold the front. It's just these things are so freak'n heavy!!! But that's a good thing.... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
i fixed the lurching problem with tightening the lever and adding a c clip to keep (the plate with the slot in it connected to the lever) from having slop. works great now. BUT now that everything is as it should be as far as keeping speed, ive noticed the hydro seems weak up hills. is there a fix for this or do i need to rebuild or buy a hydro pump for it? the fluid is all clean with no contaminates at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
check out www.cubfaq.com and the tech section of OCC - http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=19

It sounds like you may need the neutral adjust too, it's on cubfaq. Another thing on the hydro lever, the ball joints are probably worn out too. When I recently redid mine I did the whole 9 yards. Trunion weld/fix, new ball joints (switched to heim joints), had to "find neutral" again. All of that should get your speed back. I learned a lot the past couple of months on mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
check out www.cubfaq.com and the tech section of OCC - http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=19

It sounds like you may need the neutral adjust too, it's on cubfaq. Another thing on the hydro lever, the ball joints are probably worn out too. When I recently redid mine I did the whole 9 yards. Trunion weld/fix, new ball joints (switched to heim joints), had to "find neutral" again. All of that should get your speed back. I learned a lot the past couple of months on mine.
will doing that give it the power to make it up steep hills at low speed? if im going 2-3 mph and then try to climb a hill it will come to a stop. that doesnt seem good. if the hydro needs rebuilding does anyone know where to find a kit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
adjusting the neutral is a nightmare..you will probably have to bend the suction tube to get to the top bolt.(service manual even says so).it would be wise to buy a junk box end wrench and heat it so it will bend to the right configuration to get at that bolt...luckily..its about 5 minutes to fix after you unscrewed the bolt on the bracket..good luck


ps: i too would say buy new tie rod ends..all the others you can get to easily but those are a booger especially the top one..while your at it spend $7 and do the super steer upgrade...

ps: the trunion repair (aka patch) is not going to solve a weak hydro..its an $800 bill at central ill hydro reapir..you will have it back in a week...not going up hills is almost a sure thing pointing at the hydro..i imagine all the trunion shafts and charge pump shaft are shot along with piston to piston block clearance<---the real issue is that....sundstrand while very very strong still is suseptable to 40 years of wear...hydro is easy to remove..split tractor and unbolt..the booger is you need 2 more hands helping to reinstall the suction tube..thats a nightmare....

ps: cub charges about $800ish per side in your hydro (shafts not included)..you are looking at least $2000ish (much more if buy left/right trunion shaft and charge pump shaft) in parts from cub..send to off to central illinois hydrolics (see website and call the guy)...i would not even consider rebuilding a hydro unless you know what your are doing...i know if your shafts are good the cost he charges will be much less then $850

ps:yes at 3mph with a working hydro it should climb right up all but the steepest hills..if the tractor slows mowing heavy grass and then goes towards the creek at 15mph (like mine did) then its another sure bet hydro is bad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Because there is no direct mechanical connection with a hydro as there is with a gear drive, slight variation in ground speed going up and down hill is normal. Remember that the engine is splash lubricated,keep the engine oil level at the full mark in rough terrain and don't linger on very steep slopes. Steep slopes are dangerous,a city employee here, "rolled" a riding mower and it landed on top of him, he died. A Hydro is a totally different drive system than an automotive type automatic transmission and torque converter.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top