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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, about a month ago I bought a Case Ingersoll 446 it came with a 48" deck and a 48" snowcaster, it had been sitting out for a couple of years and is ruff around the edges. Got it in the shop and tried to start it using a jumper battery it cranked good so I squirted some gas into the carb it started and ran as long as I squirted gas in so I knew there was hope, discovered that the fuel pump could not draw fuel so I removed the gas tank and found the fuel hose was kinked off, cleaned the tank checked the outlet screen and installed new gas hose connected everything and tried to start the engine again after squirting some gas in the carb it started and ran very nice so that problem was taken care of. Next was the wiring as with many of these older GT's PO's have gotten there fingers and wire cutters in there and generally really mess things up some of the wires just went in a circle these tractors only had 2 safety switches, a neutral shift and a PTO switch and why anyone would think is a good idea to remove them is beyond my thinking any way its working as it should, the tractor is serviced tie rod straightened as is the drag link and toe-in adjusted so now its on to the deck

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those are nice heavy rigs looks like you got a good outfit.

I have an Ingersoll 3014 and haven't really tried using it yet I'm just going to blow snow with it.

you got some beautiful scenery there at your property
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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I have seen wiring, and I am not joking, where they wanted to make the wire longer and they used 2 splices to add a section of wire.

Most electrical problems on these tractors start at the ignition switch. The battery wire going the switch is full amperage and that often gets hot, then it gets a bad connection which just gets worse over time. The PTO micro switch goes bad and I think the 2 safety switch as in series. Sometimes the micro-switch just needs the metal tab rebent to activate the switch when it should.

Both the owners manual and the parts manual have the wiring diagram. But, it is usually the owners manual that has the wire colors listed. I believe this site has the manuals and parts dealers. Otherwise, a Google search will work. You just need the version manual for your version tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Hemlock Case Guy, you mention the the wire from the battery to the switch I just replaced that one today with a fused one, it had been very hot one time from a short at least now the fuse should blow first.
I watched your videos on the motion lever interconnect and have your replacement on watch was under the tractor today and that ball link has lots of wear/slop will most likely replace it this fall but have a question about replacing the plastic washer with the bronze one how is that done?
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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Hi Hemlock Case Guy, you mention the the wire from the battery to the switch I just replaced that one today with a fused one, it had been very hot one time from a short at least now the fuse should blow first.
I watched your videos on the motion lever interconnect and have your replacement on watch was under the tractor today and that ball link has lots of wear/slop will most likely replace it this fall but have a question about replacing the plastic washer with the bronze one how is that done?
On al the 3 digit tractors in order to be able to push the washer up from the pocket in the cross bracket you must deal with the spring and you need the lever to have room to kick forward.

In order for the travel control lever to be able to move forward the lever that operates the front belt drive clutch must be moved out of the way. I always consider this job an opportunity. Removing the hydraulic oil tank is the easiest way to move the lever out of the way. This clears the way for installing my kit as well. Your hoses should be replaced and new hose clamps made for a soft hose. Soft hose hose clamps have a continuous smooth band all the way around and have a much higher clamp force. Search for them on McMaster. The suction hoses often leak air and return hoses often leak oil. Tighten the clamp and if you can still rotate the hose on the fitting, it is a bad old hose.

I have discovered a new trick to deal with the spring. If you take some strong tie wire or strong but not overly large zip ties and thread them through the spring and tighten or compress the spring it makes life much easier for both getting the old washer out and the new one in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey thanks Hemlock Guy, that will be a fall/winter job will no doubt be getting a hold of you then, got the deck reassembled this morning and its under the tractor will get it attached this afternoon and give it a try I replaced the 2 outer spindle pulleys with new cast iron ones they must be a bit larger the new belt and the old belt would not go on did find a new for my Husqvana deck and it fit so I will be able to try mowing this afternoon
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi got the deck attached and all connected ran it out for a test run the deck ran smooth & quite so I did some mowing soon found that the clutch didn't want to stay engaged so I attached a bungee and finished mowing it mows good and works good but is slower than my Suburban and I have a couple of side hills that I don't trust to mow with the Case
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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Hi got the deck attached and all connected ran it out for a test run the deck ran smooth & quite so I did some mowing soon found that the clutch didn't want to stay engaged so I attached a bungee and finished mowing it mows good and works good but is slower than my Suburban and I have a couple of side hills that I don't trust to mow with the Case
Your clutch is not adjusted correctly then. I posted a video on YouTube for that.

If you actually have an 1985 446 it should hold the same speed downhill. 1985 446 & 448 models all got the holding valve integrated into the travel valve starting in 1985. In 1986 all 444's got the upgrade. For this feature to work you must have it at full throttle which is 3,600 rpm for the engine.

The tractor is designed for full-throttle pretty much all the time. If you have an older model then you must use the control lever going downhill to slow it down. Moving the lever into reverse while rolling forward does not hurt anything at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Hemlock guy, I don't think this 446 has a holding valve per the SN its a 1984 but the frame is orange so everybody tells me its a 1985 Ingersoll model a few years ago I had a 1980 444 and it had a holding valve it it held back just like it should I don't know what I was saying about the side hills is the Ingersoll has a higher CG and the rear wheels are narrower so I don't feel comfortable drive on side hills (did that last April with one of my suburbans and ended up with a broken arm not doing that again)
Yes this morning I looked at the manual to see how to adjust the clutch will check your video out
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hi this morning I worked on adjusting the clutch Thanks Hemlock Guy watched your video a number of times last night went to the shop this morning (no internet at the shop) but do have the EZ adjust manual took it apart someone had it apart and didn't know how to reassemble it the traveling nut was run all the way in and was so tight I had to use the inpact wrench to get it loose they had the cupped washer on the travel nut then installed the outer nut then the rest the cup washers were loose just sitter in place found they had left the spacer washer out nowhere to be found so I removed everything and checked how everything else was the wavy washers were right but there was only one washer between the friction disk and the cam the other washer was on the outer cam area got them all in place and found a spacer washer for the travel nut to push on and reassembled it got the adjustment close am working on fine tuning that got it its as good as I can get it did a test and it released once but after that it was good
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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Hi this morning I worked on adjusting the clutch Thanks Hemlock Guy watched your video a number of times last night went to the shop this morning (no internet at the shop) but do have the EZ adjust manual took it apart someone had it apart and didn't know how to reassemble it the traveling nut was run all the way in and was so tight I had to use the inpact wrench to get it loose they had the cupped washer on the travel nut then installed the outer nut then the rest the cup washers were loose just sitter in place found they had left the spacer washer out nowhere to be found so I removed everything and checked how everything else was the wavy washers were right but there was only one washer between the friction disk and the cam the other washer was on the outer cam area got them all in place and found a spacer washer for the travel nut to push on and reassembled it got the adjustment close am working on fine tuning that got it its as good as I can get it did a test and it released once but after that it was good
I hope that you get all the right parts. None of them are optional. You must have 2 wavy washers, a correct washer/ 2 more wavy washers and a correct washer, and then the last 2 wavy washers with a correct flat. The stack of 6 wavy washers with the washers seperating them is the spring that is needed for the clutch to work.

There is no almost right. It is either 100% right or it is all wrong. You do have a Case parts dealer to get your parts from, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep got it right checked the wavy's and flat washers that was right, per the manual there is 2 / 3 flat washers between the friction disk and the rear cam it only had one there and then it had a thin flat washer on the outside of the fwd cam but no thick spacer washer and the cup washers are in the right place
Yes there is a Case dealer around here
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got it this morning I looked the clutch linkage over good and could see the clutch fork was bent no doubt from trying to jam it in place to engage so I got it straight and checked now you feel it snap in and out when you move the PTO lever took it out and ran it around for 5 /6 minutes and it stayed engaged so that's a good deal now I'm working on the hood and the bent hood hinges pretty much got the hinges back in alignment so will install it this afternoon and see ig it can be straitened some
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The left step was missing when I got the tractor the seller thought it was somewhere in his stuff but can't find it so I bought one off e bay also the deck belt covers are missing no big surprise there anyway the left step came today so I got it installed and its good nice to have the step also fabricated a deck belt/pulley cover got it done and installed kooks good so the Case is now ready for another mowing secession that will tell if its good to good or needs more tweaking

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