Boot Replacement - RER vs LT

Just looking at the literature,it's easy to see that they are similar,but details are different.The boots are still attached to the chaincase,and it must be remover,either by removing the transmission,or by making clearance on the other end. Maybe someone that has actually done this job,will chime in.

IIRC my boots on my rear end rebuild are RER boots

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=170653

do you have the service manual for your LT??


LT12 parts list

Service manual LTs

Well, I started this morning on getting the YT apart. The left hub came off no problem. The right hub wouldn't budge even with a 5 ton hydraulic puller so I took it leaving the hub and frame plate on the shaft.

The boots were completely gone so it was pretty nasty underneath. I did not want to clean it with cleaner and water though because of possibly getting water and grease cleaner in the chain cases. Here is a example of how nasty after I used a shop vac and screwdriver to remove a lot of the caked material.

I really like this tractor. It is a YT16D414k with a 16hp Kohler motor on it. The only think I don't like is it uses a motorcycle battery located underneath the instruction cover.

Here is a shot of the Kohler M18 Magnum 16hp motor. Runs good. The tractor has 439 hours on it. I've put about 40 on it the summer of 2011. Note it has a larger gas tank than my LT since the battery is not under the hoof.

Not sure why the boots were so bad.........

It was good fpr Snapper to leave a notch ,on the frame,to let the whole assembly come out.The hub/axle problem is much like the RER,and has been discussed a lot.Some think a "burr" forms at the axle/hub/hub bolt,areas and must be removed before hub removal.some twist the hub on the axle,and some even,use a drill,or a rotary file to remove the "burrs".Some say they are rusted together. You could move the "wheel bearing" to get more access and use an arbor press,but you could just leave it like it is.but be sure to replace the hob bolt,I usually use a hammer to seat the bolt.

I thought I would just leave the right hub alone but examining the the inner small boot on the rear axle, it is clearly hard and no longer pliable. I would be crazy to not try and replace it while I had the transaxle removed so I decided to go for it.

I went to Harbor Freight and got their 12 ton hydraulic gear puller for about $65 after being on sale and with a 20% off coupon. It was large and over sized so I made a steel shaft in the lathe that would fit inside the hub but had a center relief on the other end for the center of the puller. That is cheaper than damaging the shaft.

I was getting scared with the pressure from the puller that was building realizing something had to give. I then applied heat and some of the penetrating oil was flashing off. I let it sit hot for about 5 minutes and it broke loose on its own and sounded like a gun going off. I thought something had broken but actually it was just the hub moving about 1".

I can say mine was rusted together. I'll polish it up good and change the bearing on the right side while I am there. I can probably straighten the hub although I have a spare hub where the threads were stripped. I could drill/tap to the next size or just use a nut behind to hold the stud.

Yes my Dad and I where one of the first guests when the RV Ranch opened back in 2000 they still had a "portable office". I remember sitting on the stone wall infornt of it and watch the chicken lights (light up 18 wheelers) at night.... Also camped at the Wal-Mart on Wilshire one night :biglaugh: I have been back another time, but not since it turned into a Yogi Bear (Jellystone) park.

the right bearing on the "carrier" thingy I had to press out with a press and press back in with one

As for my team, Alabama or Auburn untill they play each other, then its all Alabama