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Discussion Starter #1
After reviving the old Bolens, I got it started for about a minute, then it started to squeal and died. It wont start with the key, I can jump the starter, but it barely turns over. it seem that the two belts going to the drive shaft are in a bind. The big solid pulley or tension pulley seem to be too tight. This is my first Bolens project This is some kind of tractor. I have had the starter rebuilt, new solenoid, spark plug, new fuel lines and filters. I cleaned the carb, put in a new air filter and new oil. Thanks, F.A.
 

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Young Bolens Collector
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:wwp::wwp::wwp:

First try to get it to turn over by the key, fix the belt situation and pulley, then see how it does. If it is still doing this then I would look into spark or fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
something is keeping the drive belts tight, like the tensioner, I had it started with the key before something tightened up nd started to squeal, obviously something went on behind the motor around the two set of belts, but I may have blown a fuse as well, or burned up the starter, which I just had rebuilt, I hope
 

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Young Bolens Collector
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It might be a bad connection possibly, once you get this all set and can get the thing to burp over, make sure it is not running rich at all. Once you get it running and it is running rich, or when you are trying to get it going and it has no spark or something, try the gap on the ignition module to the stud on the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think you missed what I was saying, the starter will NOT turn the engine over, even without the spark plug in, I have to turn the engine with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut. there is no bad sounds inside the engine, I believe it has to do with the PTO or drive pulleys, There is nothing wrong with the electrical, it started and ran fine UNTIL the squeal from the pulleys and it froze up. I have 14 old garden tractors, mostly kohlers, and have a pretty good grasp of the electrical systems on pre-1980 tractors, but I dont know much about the double belt PTO/drive system of the H16 tube frames. I guess I need to know more how those work and what can go wrong for me to fix the problem.
 

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Sorry if I offended you at all. I would try taking the belts off then seeing how it runs with no belt reduction at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HA, HA, You didn't offend me at all, it's not real easy to explain the problem with email, like it is in person, I believe most "beefs" on line start with a misunderstanding about was was meant, not what was said. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my posts and after looking again I probably do need to double check al connections and COMPONENTS, like the solenoid, ignition switch, and any fuses. Before the engine died it was running reasonably well for a tractor that hadn't been started in over 6 years. I did put some penetrating oil down the plug oil the night before and turned the engine several times during the next day. I've got the carb set just about right as well. IF I can get it started, I'm sure the engine will run great. I also found the lock out lever behind the left panel, when unlocked it makes the tractor easy to push or easier to strat in sub zero weather.
 

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Keep us updated with it! Really want to know how it goes for you!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will and thanks for the input, I was convinced it was a pulley/idler problem, but I'm not so sure now. Thanks again for the help.
 

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I will and thanks for the input, I was convinced it was a pulley/idler problem, but I'm not so sure now. Thanks again for the help.
Is there anything connected to the PTO shaft? The With the PTO lever disengaged, my belts have plenty of slack. Will the PTO turn freely, or with minimal resistance?

As far as the drive belts go, mine have app. 1" of play. That is with the tensioner pulley in the normal position.

Here`s the service manual for the model. Hopefully this will shed some light on the issue. Good luck.

http://www.slideshare.net/guestd1b4...1-1255-g12-1453-g14-1456-h14-1656-h16-1884014
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nothing connected to the PTO, plenty of slack in the PTO belts and they tighten when I move the PTO lever. The drive belts seem pretty tights and wont turn by hand at all, I cant figure out how to loosen the tensioner on the drive pulley. the only way i can turn the engine over is to use a big socket/breaker bar on the front of the flywheel. The engine turns over fine no sounds, just hard to turn due to tightness of tensioner on belts. Thanks for the manual. F.A.
 

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Nothing connected to the PTO, plenty of slack in the PTO belts and they tighten when I move the PTO lever. The drive belts seem pretty tights and wont turn by hand at all, I cant figure out how to loosen the tensioner on the drive pulley. the only way i can turn the engine over is to use a big socket/breaker bar on the front of the flywheel. The engine turns over fine no sounds, just hard to turn due to tightness of tensioner on belts. Thanks for the manual. F.A.
I went out and took a few pics of mine. The pics from the left side of the tractor shows the drive belt(s) tensioner pulley in the normal position and with the pulley disengaged with the arm pulled back and in the lock position. The second two show the spring in the normal position and with the pulley disengaged. I assume you have already seen/inspected the pulley and spring but thought you may want to see someone elses. Would the nxt step be to remove the belts and see if motor starts and runs on it`s own?

I`m new to Bolens tractors so unfortunately have little experience and have many more questions than answers. :dunno: Good luck

Mike
 

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Northwest PA Bolens Fan!
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After reviving the old Bolens, I got it started for about a minute, then it started to squeal and died. It wont start with the key, I can jump the starter, but it barely turns over. it seem that the two belts going to the drive shaft are in a bind. The big solid pulley or tension pulley seem to be too tight. This is my first Bolens project This is some kind of tractor. I have had the starter rebuilt, new solenoid, spark plug, new fuel lines and filters. I cleaned the carb, put in a new air filter and new oil. Thanks, F.A.
Hey Frank,

I suspect you might have a hydro problem. If you can remove all the belts and run the engine with no load, then you can isolate the symptoms down to engine, hydro drive, or hydro.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Frank,

I suspect you might have a hydro problem. If you can remove all the belts and run the engine with no load, then you can isolate the symptoms down to engine, hydro drive, or hydro.
Thanks Bolens Kid, I did have a bad solenoid, it turns over now, put still very hard. I have found out the engine is a 1981 and probably hadn't run many hours before the deck gear box broke and the owner stashed the tractor in the barn. The engine/tarctor has been sitting 6-10 years without starting, I'm pouring penetrating oil into the cylinder and turning it over by hand then cranking it by the starting occasionally, but sparingly. Today I will drain and replace hydro fluid. Thanks everyone. F.A.
 

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Welcome Frank, and congrats on the new/old baby. Not many hours on it? Great!

"it turns over now, but still very hard"
Did you remove the drive belts and try to turn the motor by hand? If so, also remove the PTO belts and try again.

You should get new belts. I tried using the old belts and they self-destructed the first time I engaged them. They flapped around, made a huge noise and scared the $!#$ out of me. When you get new belts, the drive belts are 30" long, generic size A28. They are incorrectly listed as 34" in the parts lists. The original PTO belts were 42 1/2" long and are no longer made. You can use 42" belts for the PTO, generic size A40.

You almost certainly want to replace the hydro filter. The in-line filter is no longer made. There are several threads with suggestions for replacing the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have not removed the drive belts, not sure how. I think Simplicity sells belts that are in 1/2" and 3/8" increments. I search for the inline filter, any idea what I should use as fluid, since it originally called for type A? The engine has started 4-5 times and sounds strong, but after less than a minute something seems to tighten up in the belt area with a slight squeal and the engine dies.Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Welcome Frank, and congrats on the new/old baby. Not many hours on it? Great!
When you get new belts, the drive belts are 30" long, generic size A28. They are incorrectly listed as 34" in the parts lists. The original PTO belts were 42 1/2" long and are no longer made. You can use 42" belts for the PTO, generic size A40.
Uh, yeah 42 1/2 belts are still made, they use them on old American made Cars and Trucks made from 1955-1962, there 9.99. Here's the link.
http://www.classicindustries.com/truck/parts/ye17425.html
 

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Uh, yeah 42 1/2 belts are still made, they use them on old American made Cars and Trucks made from 1955-1962, there 9.99. Here's the link.
http://www.classicindustries.com/truck/parts/ye17425.html
Thanks, I have been looking for fractional belts for quite a while. However, they must be fully wrapped with fabric for multi-horsepower applications. Generator belts for cars are usually fractional hp belts with exposed rubber on the V part.

I swear the local mower shop ordered Simplicity belts in 42 1/2", but neither I nor they have been able to find the PN again. Any help is appreciated.

Hydro fluid - that and motor oil can start religious arguments. Eaton which is the hydro manufacturer suggests in their manuals any high quality fluid that is intended for use in hydraulic systems. I use Universal Tractor Fluid intended for both hydraulics and hydro trannies. Available at Tractor Supply and sometimes at auto stores.

ATF - if you know cars, then you may know transmission fluids are intended to be backwards-compatible. Dexron is also a good choice for the hydro, so is ATF 2 or 4 or whatever number it is up to.

Motor oil - the Bolens manual states 30W. The Tecumseh service manual for engines all the way back to your OH140 (or HH140) states 10W-30 is proper. I have only seen 30W as non-detergent grade. I prefer a fully synthetic 10W-30 with all the fancy additives. And it is a heck of a lot easier to start when it is cold.

Removing belts - the motor drive belts are simpler. Hook the tension pulley out of the way and the belts should be loose enough to get off. The PTO belts take more work. Remove or loosen the belt guard that is bolted to the PTO which easier said than done. Then you can work off the PTO belts.

I usually start the engine with the tension pulley out of the way. Which reminds me, I gotta get some new drive belts.
 
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