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Bolens 800 Transmisson Repair

4801 Views 14 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Frustrated Farmer
I have a Bolens Husky 800 tractor with a 3 speed transmission. The input shaft to the transmission needs to be replaceed. The keyway in the shaft has become worn down probably due to the jarring from plowing snow. I have tried a new key but it eventually slips. The tractor moves, stops, then moves again.
My question is how hard is it to replace the input shaft? I consider myself fairly good in mechanical aptitude. Do I need special tools? Would it be better to find a repair shop? Just wondering what I might be getting into. I have the Bolens manual but it only talks about putting the transmission together not disassembly.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you
Dave
St. Joseph, Michigan
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if i remember -that is a splined shaft? at least i though so on my 1050`s if it was mine- i would try to put a roll pin thru it- if that shaft is super hard- try it with a small end mill
A 1050 will have a different shaft becasue it is a hi lo.

I have never worked on a 800 tranny before but I have worked on a 1050. While they are different they are also similar in size. Sine you only need to replace that shaft I don't think that it will be a very difficult job. before you do take it apart look at how everything it setup and determine if you can handle it.

If you are interested I do have an input shaft that came out of an 850 that should work for you.
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Any chance you can provide a picture of the worn out keyway? I've never seen that happen before.

Transmission work in these is pretty simple. I have found that it's much easier to remove the transmission and dissasemble it on a table. No special tools needed other than a set of snap ring pliers, which you may already have. You may actually have trouble finding a repair show willing to take this on as they tend to shy away from 50 year old machines.

You may also want to look around for a complete used axle. Around here, a 3 speed goes for about $50.

Jason
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Thank you all for your comments:
BOLENSBOY60- I wish the shaft was splined but it isn't.
FARMERALL- I read the manual again. It does not sound too hard but then I have a brother named Murphy. lol The shaft from the 850 is the same one I need. What are you asking?
JASON4567- I agree finding a shop that will work on a 50 year old machine might be a challenge as well as the cost. It may be worth looking into another axle. Where do you find one for $50? I will try to get some pictures this weekend and post them. I need to remove the drive shaft.
Dave
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I have attached some pictures of the shaft.I have a friend who owns a pattern shop. I asked if he could cut a new keyway on the opposite side of the shaft. He hemmed and hawed and did not give me a positive answer so I believe the shafrt must be hardened making for a difficult job. What is wierd is that the cast iron shaft coupling is almost perfect. Why couldn't that have worn out?
I like the idea of removing the unit from the tractor. It might make getting into it a lot easier.
Dave

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The $50 number comes from ones I have sold in the past. It's a shame you're not closer, I have 2 or 3 good ones in parts tractors. Your best bet is probably to keep an eye on craigslist, you might be able to grab a parts tractor or you might run across someone parting one out. I looked on CL near you and there was one parts tractor for $100 that had a 3 speed rear. The only downside is that it is the G-series 3 speed so there is no locking differential. here is a link to that ad: http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/grd/2831195621.html


Was the key broken off when you removed the drive coupler, or was it still in place? While the keyway is definitely worn out, I wonder if the stop/go/stop again issue is being caused by something else.

Jason
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i think if it was mine- i would disassemble the trans and get that shaft out- have someone run across it with a 3/8 end mill and fit up a step key take the driveshaft with you so you make sure it fits good- you could weld it up and recut a 1/4" keyway but the machine shop with need to check run out for straightness
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on second thought- if that relatively soft key mushed the shaft over like that it must not be that hard- it would save you expense if you still got that shaft out- and installed a couple roll pins- that would keep it nice and snug and you could easily disassemble it again if need be
The key in the picture is not the original. I put this one in a few years ago and the problem went away for a while. It is funny that the shaft coupling shows hardly any wear. You would think it would go first being a softer metal.
Thanks for the link to Craigslist.
The key in the picture is not the original. I put this one in a few years ago and the problem went away for a while. It is funny that the shaft coupling shows hardly any wear. You would think it would go first being a softer metal.
Thanks for the link to Craigslist.
If you were closer I have a 1253 (no engine) you could have the whole thing. It will be to bad tho see it go to salvage.
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Yea, same here, I have a 850 no engine that will be a parts donor.
I wish you guys were closer too.
I am trying to remember but I am pretty sure I havve also replaced the shaft coupling. I think everything was kind of nurled down which makes more sense. The key was never an problemto remove. I think the slamming with the snow plow did it's damage over the years as opposed to constant movement with a mower.
Some history - If you noticed the cut out by the air cleaner and the two pieces of sheet metal on the hood, the original owner had removed the stock 8HP engine and replaced it with a 10HP Kohler. When I first saw it there was one headlight in the middle of the hood and I said "Who would buy anything that ugly?" HA I did.
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if you are using it for plowing, I would recomend getting a rear/trans out of a 1050 or simler with the hi/low gears. I have seen 1050's for a couple hundred bucks that ran and worked, so you could get something like that to plow and use the 800 for cutting grass or other work that is not that hard on the gears. I have a 750 that I tried using for tilling...I was constantly clutching it and stripped the gears in the rear. I bought a 1050 with the hi/low trans, what a differance. if you wanted to fix it, I would grind the key way a bit bigger and put a bigger key in it, of course you would have to grind the other part to fit, if you drill out a hole in the part the key that holds the key in you could put a set screw in there to hold the key in tight. you could also drill the shaft if it isn't to hard of steel and put a bolt through it. ggod luck dt
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I found a local repair shop that will repair the transmission at a good rate.
Since I was going to remove the tranmisson/axle anyway I am going to take the cover off and see if I can fix it myself. I will probably get a shaft and seal from Sam's Bolens. I hope to start it soon when the weather gets warmer (it was 62 today but that is not normal). I will let you know of my progress.
Thanks for all your input and ideas.
Dave
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