My Tractor Forum banner

Bolens 1886 with K486 Charging issues

5596 Views 21 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  goingmach_1
Bolens 1886 with K482 Charging issues

I am doing a overhaul on the engine for my Brother-in-Law in his 1886. As it turns out I really like this machine. Its in great shape, except that the previous owner ran the engine into the ground.

My Brother-inLaw, Uncle Danny, purchased it, noticed it was making noise and took it over to your freindly neighborhood take it apart guy. After it was dismantled he determined it was going to need a couple of new rods, pistons ect. Thousand bucks ought to do it!

Well Uncle Danny packages it all up and drags it home, where it sits for 10 years. I come along and ask, "what are going to do with that?" He says get 'er going some day. We decide he will never do it, so I box up the remnats and start the process.

Remember, I did not take it apart.

Well I take the engine block over the machine shop, and the machinist just happens to really like doing old Kohler engines. He measures it all up and realize it needs the full Monty. Oversize pistons, undersize rods, new valve guides and valves, all the bearings, gaskets and seals.

It took some time to source it all but in a nut shell the engine is complete, installed and running.

But! It wont charge the battery.

It has a 30 amp alternator with a AC-DC rectifier. I did all the book procedures to test it high and low. The stator has 4 wires. 2 black AC output, and 2 red ones. The test shows 2 ohms between the black wires and that tests good, and .1 ohms over the 2 red ones, and they test out. The wires are not open and do not ground out to the stator. The regulator tests good as well.

The only issue I can see is that there is like a small piece of one of the magnets in the flywheel has flown off. There is still I'd guess a half magnet in there, it grabs metal anyway. All the other magnets are intact.

I traced all the wires through the key, amp gauge, circuit breaker, starter solinoid. Brand new battery.

Does anyone been through this before? Any ideas? Do you think the stator is toast.

I don't have a spare engine to start swapping parts out.

Thanks in advance.
See less See more
1 - 1 of 22 Posts
Does the new stator have the same resistance measurements as the old? If so, the old one was not defective.
Are you sure that you are testing for output properly? Or wiring the stator into the harness properly? When you rotate the crankshaft, the magnets should cause current to flow back and forth across the windings. Measuring across red to red and then black to black you should get a voltage created. If you are measuring across there, I stand corrected. The stator will put out alternating current, which is then either fed to the lighting system as raw AC, or fed to a rectifier/regulator that will be used to provide the 12VDC+ that charges the battery and runs accessory items. The two circuits are separate. If the A/C has one lead of the stator grounded, then the other lead can go to the light switch, or be fed directly to the 'headlights' as some do now, running the lights all the time that the engine is running. If neither lead is grounded, the circuit would go directly to the load, across the headlight terminals, or be routed through a switch. It would connect to nothing else.
In most schematics I have seen, one lead from the stator windings is connected to the frame, i.e., ground. The other lead goes to the rectifier and/or headlight circuit, respectively. That saves the expense of providing a separate wire to complete the circuit.
See less See more
1 - 1 of 22 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.