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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever seen welded brackets like these on a large frame tractor (see attached pic)? I'm guessing they are not factory due to lack of paint but wanted to make sure before I cut them off. It looks like the brackets were originally closer together and later cut and re-welded further apart. The brackets are not duplicated on the other side of the tractor. I wouldn't worry about them but the rear-most bracket is welded directly over one of the block bearing bolt holes (apparently 2 bolts are required as the other bolt is missing as well). Any thoughts as to what the brackets might have been used for ? Sickle mower maybe ?

Thanks
-Neil
 

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They look fairly well built, and look as though they had something attached to them. Could it have anything to do with a loader? or backhoe attachment?
 

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They certainly ain't stock! If you have no use for them, cut 'em off!

Doug
 

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the guy that bought it new was very short and thats the flip up step brakets so he could get on and off it. :trink40:
 

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Think it may be an engineered form of foot operated angle control for a snow blade,in the process and never finished .:snowing:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quick update (with an additional question or two)...

I cut the rear-most bracket and muscled the pivot shaft assembly back into place (it did not want to align easily) and bolted up the block bearing. Greased everything and re-assembled the tractor and drained and refilled the gasoline and gave it a jump start. IT RUNS !! Took it for a spin and ran the hydraulic lift cylinder through a few cycles. Drove it back in the garage and noticed a chunk of cast metal laying on the driveway.

Is this a common problem with the block bearings? (for the sake of the picture I slid the bearing on backwards) I can see that the block bearing has been cracked for some time as there is rust. And the other bearing has been repaired (brazed) at some point. Are they a common item that would be available at the local farm/ranch stores? And is it possible that the pivot shaft might be bent?

Thanks
-Neil
 

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I can see in the original photo of it sticking down. This may have made it fatigue under load not being bolted properly. It would be very hard to bend that shaft , being the location up under the frame. I would contact sambolens web site and send an e-mail and remember to get the bolts or even ask what hardness they might be and if you need locking nuts to prevent the bolts from backing out. I'm sure this a fatigue problem not being bolted properly.
 

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Two of my 3 large frames have had cracked block bearings. I would say it was a design flaw if not just a common problem. I would say, if you have access to a machine shop, have them make something similar but stronger. In my opinion, if these are loose in any way, you will stress them and they will crack.
 

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Same thing happened to mine, JustinR. Those 'bearing' blacks just didn't hold up. Drilled steel plate replaced them and now all is well. The next article(s) to do the same are the steering knuckles. It's usually the left front that breaks. It's been welded up so many times with added bracing and it always finds new places to cave.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was actually thinking about running down to the steel store and checking on some thick-wall pipe to be welded inside a hole cut in some 3/8" plate. Brass insert comes to mind too so-as not to cause too much wear on the shaft. Then again, with the limited movement of the shaft, it would take a long time to wear out (would definitely out-live me).

-Neil
 

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Good idea on the pipe fitting. in the past i cut copper pipe and split it , slide it on the shaft for a bearing and slide that in the steel pipe, :trink40:
 

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I am not sure why there seem to be several instances of these block bearings being broken. I have 8 Large Frames, and not a single one of them has broken block bearings. Let's hope it stays that way! I do keep them greased well.

Doug
 

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I am not sure why there seem to be several instances of these block bearings being broken. I have 8 Large Frames, and not a single one of them has broken block bearings. Let's hope it stays that way! I do keep them greased well.

Doug
Hey LP, have you looked really closely at them. I bet 10 to one if you were to take them out, you would have a few that had cracked on you. I only say this because it took me taking them apart for them to show they were broke. Anyways, greasing them and making sure the bolts are tight would go a long way in keeping them in one piece.
 

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I have actually had most of them out as I ws going through these tractors, and they were not broken. But your point is well taken. They could have been cracked without it being noticeable.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finally got back to my block bearing project. Was at the local Tractor Supply store and came across a pair of 1-1/8" shaft collar. Decided to weld (or attempt to at least) them on some 2"x1/2" flat bar. Be gentle...I am far from being a welder. :banghead3 Will bolt them up tomorrow after the paint dries and give them a try.
 

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I'm not much of a welder either... however repairing the mower deck that I got for my HT23 has helped improve my skills. Thankfully most of the welds are from the inside. I also bought a grinding disk that looks like layered paper... I have heard people refer to them as slap disks. They smooth out welds fast and leave a smooth surface fairly quick. I will post welding pictures to make you feel better sometime lol. I will need to check my HT23 to see if it has the cracks as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well...all is well with the makeshift block bearings. They seem to take on grease just fine and I ran them through a great number of cylinder cycles when I took it for a spin around the yard (pretty sure I caught an eye-roll when I asked my wife if she wanted to give it a try). And best of all, no broken bolts. Since I have no attachments for it (not even a mower deck) I think the next project will be a 3 pt hitch. Great resource with the the sites 8010_3pointhitch.pdf by the way !! The additional info attached to the end of the pdf will be very helpful. Thanks to the responsible party that went though all the trouble !! Anyone planning to do the same with the Johnson FEL ?? :) Think I'll stick pretty close to the drawings at the end of the pdf, but may go with 1/2" X 2" flat for the lift arms and weld on cat 1 lift arm ends (seem to be plentiful at the local farm supply stores) then use cat 1 to cat 0 bushings.
 

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